Biggest trailer with <=2,000lbs loaded weight?

[Betonhaus]

Considering the max my car can tow is 2,000lbs, I was wondering what's the largest size trailers that people have made that fits in that range even when loaded for travel? or did someone make a table of links to trailers for different max tow capacities?

[Ottsville]

Considering the max my car can tow is 2,000lbs, I was wondering what's the largest size trailers that people have made that fits in that range even when loaded for travel? or did someone make a table of links to trailers for different max tow capacities?

For a car with a 2000 lb tow capacity you probably don't want to actually tow 2000lbs. Though some tow ratings are under a car's capabilities(check tow ratings for the same vehicle in other countries), you may find that braking capability especially in emergency situations will be less than desirable and the extra wear and tear on your car may be costly. There's also factors beyond weight, like profile.

[Betonhaus]

Considering the max my car can tow is 2,000lbs, I was wondering what's the largest size trailers that people have made that fits in that range even when loaded for travel? or did someone make a table of links to trailers for different max tow capacities?

For a car with a 2000 lb tow capacity you probably don't want to actually tow 2000lbs. Though some tow ratings are under a car's capabilities(check tow ratings for the same vehicle in other countries), you may find that braking capability especially in emergency situations will be less than desirable and the extra wear and tear on your car may be costly. There's also factors beyond weight, like profile.

yeah I'd definitely be looking into surge brakes which will add a bit of cost and weight but they're important. Profile is important yeah, but that can be modified from a basic size reference.

[alaska teardrop]

Link to Sharon's trailer weight chart:



viewtopic.php?f=2&t=56787

[TimC]

+1 on the braking capability. Concentrate not on maxing out the weight you can pull, it's how much weight you can safely stop in an emergency.

[GerryS]

+1 on brakes. It’s amazing how tight you can pucker when some one pulls out in front of you, but that doesn’t help you stop faster.

Don’t push limits. I’ve towed right at with a bumper pull trailer on an f150. It’s scary when the load shifts or a truck passes you and you feel the tow vehicle being thrown around, it’s just not worth it. It makes vacation driving a dreadful task, not part of the adventure.


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[working on it]

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I've noticed several things that help when towing a bumper-pull trailer (single or tandem axle, enclosed or open bed, travel/camping or cargo):
• 1) load balance of the trailer, front to rear, is critical no matter what the total weight is,
• 2) you get safer towing if your towing vehicle is equal to, or heavier than the trailer,
• 3) make sure that the combined braking capacity of TV and trailer is up to the job, under all circumstances.

* 1) load balance of the trailer: it took me many trips (on all my trailer types) to find the "sweet spot" re: load placement to achieve the best tongue weight/total weight on each. I wasn't able to always determine the best/safest place for all loads (for instance, retrieving a project car/truck, not knowing the weight of it), so I always used a Weight Distributing Hitch (plus sway control), whenever I used the open-bed car hauler. When my squareback trailer was notably tail-heavy (prior to moving loads forward, over the years), the WDH was used, to effectively "transfer" the load forward, to secure the light tongue-to-hitch as-if it was much heavier. I no longer need the WDH on the little trailer, but carry it along, ready if I think I'll need it (rough roads, higher speeds, long-distance trips), just in case,

* 2) weight of tow vehicle vs trailer weight: examples:[list][*] a) 1500 lb tandem axle open-bed trailer with 3500 lb car loaded with centerline of weight over the axles; if pulled by a 3500 lb truck (1969 Chevy C1500), then a Weight Distributing hitch is needed, to equalize the load better,[*] b) same trailer and load, pulled by a 5150 lb truck (2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD WT), with 1000 lbs cargo in the bed, the WDH helped, but wasn't actually required, for safe operation,

* 3) have enough braking capacity for any situation: I started building my squareback 4x8 to be towed by lightweight Chevys (2008 Cobalt or 2009 HHR Panel), which had a tow-rating of 1000 lbs; I aimed for under 1000 lbs, but if I slightly exceeded that mark by 20-40%, it was ok...I thought. After a few hard stops on the freeways driving to/from work each day, I concluded that the braking capacity (front disc/rear drum) of the two little cars was barely enough to stop them, let alone adding a 1200-1400 lb unbraked trailer. So, I switched over to the 2004 Chevy, with good tow capacity (10800 lbs from the factory, modified with transmission and suspension upgrades), which has four-wheel disc brakes, and never had a problem. I later added a 3500 lb axle with brakes (the trailer had grown to 1600 lbs, and is now at 2222+ lbs, after several more additions), anyway, to my 4x8. And, when I was still using my car-hauler, I installed two new 3500 lb axles, both with brakes, for added braking power. you can never have enough....