Glue dissapointment

[An Ol Timer]

Chris, I won't throw any rocks at you or anyone else, but as I said previously there is a place for every glue so there is a place for the PL poly glue. It is in a good fitting joint that may ocassionally be subject to moisture. Not all polys are the same, and where some, such as Gorilla Glue expand greatly, others such as the PL poly does not. I don't think it was ever portrayed as a gap filling glue. As someone else once said " Those that can't build in wood use Gap Fillers."

[hammer & tongs]

My disasppointment was with the most famous brand of glue that comes in calk tubes (you all know the brand).
I tried some at the start of my tear. Fortunately, I had to do a teardown on just the second day into the project...
That glue just laid there in a lump...no gluing power whatever..

...Declined to use any more of that stuff...and got rid of the couple spare tubes I had...

And the tube I used was supposed to be " heavy duty construction" grade of that brand...

[Larwyn]

Chris, sure hope you are right, if Tightbond III does not hold, you'll find my bare trailer frame just ahead of the trail of sticks...................

[Chris C]

I've been making fine furniture for a lot of years, and I guarantee if the joint fits, most any name brand woodworking glue will give you a stronger joint than the wood which surrounds it! And that is a proven fact. But hear me well....................the key words were "if the joint fits". If we build in a sloppy manner, we can't expect the wood to stay together. Titebond is one of the excellent glues................Titebond II if you are worried about moisture exposure. Polyurethane glues have their place and are quite satisfactory................it is just my opinion that too many people think they are the answer to all things needing to be fastened together. That just isn't the case, any more than building a tear with a caulking tube glue. Wood fibers have to be expanded (by the moisture in the glue) and then polymerized by the drying and shrinking until they bond permanently. That's what a wood working glue accomplishes.

[40deluxecoupe]

Went to the shed this morning to test my experimental glue job. Two pieces of pine, one damp, glued and clamped over night. Two light taps and they came apart, so the water did not make the joint any stronger. Maybe I got a dud bottle of glue? Anyway I now have bought some Titebond 11 so will give that a whirl.
Thx

[An Ol Timer]

Chris,
What's your take on Resorcinol and its Pros and Cons?

[Chris C]

It's a great glue..................and one I use frequently for bent laminations. It's also extremely useful when I'm working with oily exotic woods like cocabolo, macasar ebony and the likes. I just wish it didn't dry dark.

[An Ol Timer]

I know what your saying about the color. The first time that I used it I gave no thought to it, and ended up painting something, that I had wanted to just put a clear coat over. I had to do it to cover up my sloppiness. That was when I was much younger, now I get away with blaming all my mistakes on old age, and a declining mental capability.

[IraRat]

There's a Titebond II AND a Titebond III???

I'm pretty sure I used the II to secure my interior skins and to laminate the spars.

Am I going to die?

[TomS]

Thanks Chris for the straight dope on adhesives. Pun intended.

[toypusher]

Went to the shed this morning to test my experimental glue job. Two pieces of pine, one damp, glued and clamped over night. Two light taps and they came apart, so the water did not make the joint any stronger. Maybe I got a dud bottle of glue? Anyway I now have bought some Titebond 11 so will give that a whirl.
Thx

I think that Titebond II is fantastic and have been using it for years on most of my woodworking projects. However, the issue with the polyurethane glue (at least as I see it) is that if you are glueing two porous materials together (read wood here), then you have to wet both pieces for the poly glue to work properly. Was the glue all stuck to the side that you wet, by chance???

Kerry

[Chris C]

PU glues are "kicked off" by moisture. All you have to do is wipe down both surfaces with a wet rag.............that's enough to kick it off and get it going. It's a good glue....................I just trust TightBond or equivalent much more. (In my humble opinion!)

[asianflava]

There's a Titebond II AND a Titebond III???

I'm pretty sure I used the II to secure my interior skins and to laminate the spars.

Am I going to die?

Titebond I has red labels
Titebond II has blue labels and is supposed to be water proof
Titebond III has green labels and is an improvement on II

[Guy]

Dear All,

You could probably, for maximum protection, do your tear, except for aluminum skinng, with two glues, . The first is Titebond III which you can get so many places it is almost a commodity and epoxy which has some additional qualities.

One of the differences between Titebond III and epoxy is that with TitebondII and other glues you must clamp your items with a significant amount of pressure and with epoxy you do not clamp with much pressure. Therefore the investment in clamps with epoxy is much lower. Epoxy is more forgiving and does not require tight fitting joints. Both are waterproof, however, Titebond III is more UV resistant than epoxy. Epoxy is harder to clean up than Titebond II and costs more.

BTW, neither are great for attaching aluminum skin.
Reards to all,

Guy, On the road in Amherst, MA.

[An Ol Timer]

I just went out to the site of the maker of the Polyurethane glue that I have used quite a bit of and went all thru their spec sheets again. One sheet was how to use the product and their is no, I repeat NO MOISTURE of any kind what-so-ever used. It said to prefit the parts, then apply a bead of the adhesive onto all mating parts and then fasten it with fasteners and/or clamps till cured. Funny thing is that one of the major uses of the this one in particular is in the use of the construction of RECREATIONAL VEHICLES!!!!!

Funny thing I thought that TDs were recreational vehicles.