Radial Arm Saw

[Podunkfla]

Nobody... Yep, I know some folks still swear by their RAS's. It has just been my experience that I can do just about anything you can do on a RAS on a good table saw... usually with more accuracy and less setup. Now... what I'd really like is one of those overpriced compound sliding miter saws... but not for $600. plus.

[asianflava]

It has just been my experience that I can do just about anything you can do on a RAS on a good table saw

One thing a table saw can do that a RAS can't, is cut a sheet of ply in half.

[len19070]

I have a 1948 Dewalt 2HP 24" RAS.



Its been used daily for decades, replaced the motor once in the 70's. I just grew up on this saw and its what I'm used to. I have plenty of room in my shop for it.

I would never rip lumber on it..but not for conventional reasons.

1. I have a nice big Walker-Turner Table saw 10' away

2. Because the RAS is permentantly mounted on a long bench you can't stand on the side to feed it.

But one thing with power tools is a constant. If your not comfortable doing something with a tool then that tool is dangerous to you. And you shouldn't use it. Weather the tool has a great safty record or not.

I.E. I don't feel comfortable cutting metal with a torch, I feel safer using a Skill Saw with a Radiac wheel. Some people are scared to death of Skill Saws with Radiac wheels, I'm not.

Just my opinion.

Happy Trails

Len

[halfdome, Danny]

Now... what I'd really like is one of those overpriced compound sliding miter saws... but not for $600. plus.

I was a hold out too on the sliders until a job came along that demanded one and justified the cost. I have the Makita 10" sliding compound miter saw and it will crosscut 12". All the major brands are made in China now but at least my Makita was assembled here in the USA. Very nice saw & it was less than $600. Danny

[Podunkfla]

I have a 1948 Dewalt 2HP 24" RAS.

Len... Now THAT'S a saw! I'd keep that one too.

Danny... Yeah, I see one in my future too. Just need the right job to come along to justify it. Anyone need a yacht framed or sumptin?

[dwgriff1]

I bought one of the first Hitachi sliders in the early 90's. I have mixed feelings about it.

It takes up a lot of space for the arms to swing behind the saw. You can't push it against the wall. I am not sure any of them (mine in particular) is really accurate on a wide cut. I use it for narrower trim, but my new (chinese) Hitchi compound does pretty well with that.

Mine is a solid beast, but right now I am not using it. It will out last a bunch of the cheap Chinese versions, I am sure.

dave

[asianflava]

I wanna get one of the new sliders too. I've noticed that the new models don't require as much room in the rear as the older ones. I don't remember which one (I think it's the Hitachi) but, the linear guides are mounted so they don't stick out at all.

Maybe some day.

[rbeemer]

All,

Tools are not dangerous....it is the user that is dangerous. More than often people get hurt because they are pushing the limit of their ability to use the too, perform a task that the tool was not designed for or just not paying attention. When I took my two fingers into the spinning bit of my router I was doing a task (making tenons for raised panel doors)freehand(above my ability)

[Podunkfla]

Tools are not dangerous....it is the user that is dangerous.

Hmmm... I think I have to disagree. Although, surely some tools are by their nature more dangerous than others... They are all dangerous. The trouble with power tools is you only become an experienced operator by using them... And, that learning curve can be nasty on occasion.

As for RAS in general... The very nature of the beast is that it wants to advance that spinning blade toward you as you are cutting. You have to keep a firm grip on the handle and control it's movement... And, of course, keep your hands out of the way of that evil blade. I have seen careless operators crank up the saw with the blade just a bit low so it contacted the table and come flying out at the spooked operator. I have seen much worse accidents with them I'd just as soon forget.

[asianflava]

Yeah, I kinda agree with Podunk. I have to admit, I am the poster child for unsafe shop practices. To the point that I tell people NOT to do what I'm doing, yet I have 10 fingers and 2 eyes. (watch, I just jinxed myself)

The first time I used my brand new table saw, it threw something at me, glasses don't help because it hit my brow (no blood). I've used many a table saw but this has never happened. When using a tool for the first time I usually take more precautions. You have to get used to the quirks of each tool. The big thing is to always be on guard, and to NEVER become complacent with what you are doing.


BTW: Who has done this? When I used a sliding miter saw for the first time, I pulled the blade like a RAS.

[cracker39]

My first large shop tool was a Sears Craftsman RAS. Later, I bought a table saw. I had always considered the RAS more versatile than the table saw until I used the latter. I soon found that the RAS was relegated to cross cutting long pieces of lumber and horizontal drilling into the ends of lumber (making coat trees for craft shows) and not much else. My RAS has been stored at my Dad's house since 2001 and I haven't missed it at all. It has to come home soon as Sis and I will be selling that house in a couple of months. I'll probably sell the RAS as space is limited now.

[Sonetpro]

I still have my Delta RAS and find it invaluable for cabinet work. I don't rip with it , that's what the table saw is for. But for crosscutting wide lumber and dado's that's the only way to go.

[Fenlason]

Hello Everyone:
Mike says he has a compound miter saw and the table saw [as well as the inherited RAS].
Forgive my ignorance.. but what can you do with a RAS that you can not do with the combo of these two other tools?

Glenn

[Roly Nelson]

Oh boy, all of this RAS talk brings back memories of when I was an apprentice carpenter. I was watching some dim-witted journeyman rip a piece of 1/2" lumber from the wrong end, I guess the "Do Not Rip or Plough From This End" warning lable didn't apply to him. At anyrate, I was on the 2nd floor window as he fired it up, stuffed the board in from the wrong end and it took off like an arrow, probably shot out into a field over a hundred feet. He looked around to see if anyone had seen his blunder, as I ducked back to avoid his gaze. I never did reveal what I had seen to him, but vowed never to be near the "Monster Saw" while he was using it.

Oh yes, this saw could have changed my whole life, as I was the guy that had to cut all of the blocking for the carpenter crew. One morning, a 2x12 with frozen snow on it had to be cut into blocks. I tried to pull it along to butt it against the butt block when my hand slipped and I slammed the back of my hand against the spinning 16" blade! Fortunately it hit it near the center and not at the tooth area. I guess I would have been called 'Lefty' after that. it scared me to death, and I've hated them ever since. I only use mine to cut quantities of drawer sides or shelving to length. Otherwise it's the table saw for me. One drawback no-one has mentioned is that the teeth of a RAS come up through the wood, splintering it badly, whereas the table saw's teeth go down and make a neater cut on the top, 'good' side of the lumber.

Roly, the ten-fingered woodworker, and hope to keep it that way

[Lobo]

Mike,

Once upon a time, I worked professionally in a custom wood shop. I used the radial arm saw daily, and if I ever set up shop again, I will have another.

Can you build a TearDrop without one......sure. I still build a cabinet now and again, and where I'd use a radial arm saw, I put a nice 42 carbide tooth blade on my circular hand saw, set up a fense.....measure acurately......and cut! Takes longer, but with a personal project, it doesn't matter.

Lobo in West Virginia