Is your AC running hot?

[Steve_Cox]

Thanks Julie,

This thread was a classic and deserved to be revived, not like the many that deserve to be labeled "DO NOT RESUSCITATE"

[Dooner]

Hey Mike,
You need to listen to Madjack. He is steering you in the right direction of where your major problem is.
I've got 14 years in a/c's under my belt. I don't know everything, but installing window unit, I got some know-how.
Your major problem is that the exhaust air is blowing straight into a flat wall. In turn it is blowing back into itself. Causing it to overheat. You need to angle that back wall somehow to get the air blowing in the direction of the openings.
Also try using some insulation board to cut down on the heated air blowing on the galley wall. If not the kind you used to insulate the TD, go to a local A/C Dealer and ask for a scap peice of ductboard.
Another suggestion would be to put the case back on the unit and just remove the louvers ( I think thats how it's spelled) on the sides and top.
And you are also pulling the cool air from the side the produces all the heat, compressor and high side line. But get enough cool air vent on it and it should be OK.
I hope things work out for you.

Mike, don't forget to let us know how things are working out.

[asianflava]

How about a skateboard ramp to duct the heat. Ran mine for 4 days straight in 95+ heat. No problems.

[oklahomajewel]

:thumbsup: Julie,

I got my A/C ideas from Woody and used a 6" diameter, 600 cfm, bathroom exhaust fan from H/D. I also put in a switch for the exhaust fan and tied the outlet for the air conditioner to it. That way the A/C can't run unless the fan is on.

Great idea !! about connecting the two. My "electrician" said we could put a switch on it , to flip on the exhaust when you turn on the ac. I'll mention that too him.
And it's nice to see that you and Woody in FLA like this idea, since you have the humidity (I think?) and that's one of the reasons I decided to do an ac.

Julie

[Woody]

Julie,
Necessity was the mother of invention for the secondary blower fan for the removal of the heat exhaust. I found in my original design concept (without the blower) that it functioned fine but it ran hot. The fan that is installed in the A/C isn't up to par to push the air through restrictions all that well only for what it was designed for as a window unit install for a home. So the additional exhuast fan from lowes (bathroom type)was the ticket to expediate the removal of the heat by assisting the A/C fan in the removal of excess heat and the exhuast opening made in the trailer would be and could made smaller so it would be easier to conceal. I didn't want to exhaust openings in the floor of the trailer. That is why mine exhausts on the side of the teardrop. Primarily in Florida when it rains, the road ponds up sometimes with water, and driving through it with any type of speed would have the potential of forcing water up the opening and eventually some water damage would ensue over time. Hey it works what can I tell ya, ask any one who has seen it, they will tell ya it works rather well
Also since I do not have a roof vent installed the fan runs whenever the trailer is plugged in to shore power and maintains the cabin with continious fresh air circulation due to a vent in the galley wall allowing air to enter the cabin from an open portlight and pulled into the galley and pulled through the rear of the A/C unit. Then through the fan blower and out the side vent. A side benefit of the secondary exhaust blower set up. the fresh air being introduced into the cabin fools the A/C thermostat into running longer and dehumidifies the cabin air so the A/C doesn't short cycle. Eliminating that cool but damp situation most people encounter with A/C setups in the first place cooling a smaller area than the unit is designed for. I have slept like a baby in there in the keys with it 98 degrees 100 percent humidity outside. Install a condensate drain to remove the water from the A/C unit so it won't flood you out when it overflows. All cool and comfy so to speak from a guys standpoint that is

[Tear Fan]

Anyone have any ideas on installing a Petcool in a Silver Shadow? I have a 33" by 18-1/4" space in the galley where I am thinking of putting this unit. It has two duct hoses that I will channel through the wall between the galley and the cabin, as high as I can get them so as not to block them with mattress and blankets (and feet!) Can I run the unit with the galley door closed? If I put a vent in the floor of the galley for heat exhaust, won't that allow water up from the road when in transit? Anyone? Anyone?

[madjack]

TF, if you mount in the galley, you have cool air in and hot out considerations...the coil on the unit needs both to function properly...I would consider mounting on the tongue or carrying in the tow...goto the deep inside corners of your foot well and drilling/cutting out for 3"PVC pipe...run the return air straight up and turn...run the cold duct up and turn and run along the top corner so that it blows out into the cabin...on the bottom, run the pvc to the side in front R back of wheels and put your connections to the PetCool. Then when you arrive at the campground you can place the PC on the ground and hook it up...you might want to consider a t-stat placed inside the tear...I believe the Kai used a t-stat to control a relay that in turn controlled the power to the PC...turn the t-stat on the PC to max and set the inside t-stat to whatever temp you wanted
madjack

[Dooner]

Tear Fan,
These are just my opinions. After the trouble of waterproofing the underside, do not put any holes in the bottom. You would be sorry in the long run.
As for running it in the galley with the hatch closed. Nope. As you know, it needs good airflow, so not to overheat.
From what I have seen and read about the petcool, it seems that it was made to sit on the outside, so why not figure some way to mount it on the tongue .
Good luck.

Hey Mike,
Any progress on your problem??

[Sonetpro]

Anyone have any ideas on installing a Petcool in a Silver Shadow? I have a 33" by 18-1/4" space in the galley where I am thinking of putting this unit. It has two duct hoses that I will channel through the wall between the galley and the cabin, as high as I can get them so as not to block them with mattress and blankets (and feet!) Can I run the unit with the galley door closed? If I put a vent in the floor of the galley for heat exhaust, won't that allow water up from the road when in transit? Anyone? Anyone?

I don't have a Silver Shadow but here's how I did it. If you take off the legs and handle the petcool is 16x16x17. I drilled two hole in the bulkhead for the ducts. Then I used two rubber 2" PVC adapters to go thru the wall. The petcool outlets fit on one side and PVC ducts are in the inside. They both come out in the wire chase. I used a 3" x 10" to make a plenum. I attatched 2 2" pvc to the pleum and run pool hose thru the back of my cabinets to a couple of porshe vent's I got on ebay. I modified the controls so they sit at the bottom of the unit., and cut a rectangular hole in the bulkhead then made a door to have access to them.
The only other mod's done were to put a hotter start cap in it so I can run it off a 1K genset. , It also came from the factory with the fan running all the time. After looking at the schematic I found that the line to the fan was running to the run side of the cap. If I moved it to the buss bar where all the others were ran it would run only if the compressor was running but the heater wouldn't work. I installed a 2 way switch to the buss bar and the cap. Now if I have the switch flipped it only runs the fan when needed. The thermostat works great.


Hot air venting is with these boat vent's

[madjack]

Steve, I have been meaning to ask...what didja do about about condensate drainage............................

[Sonetpro]

Steve, I have been meaning to ask...what didja do about about condensate drainage............................

There is a condensate drain in the back of the unit I put a hose on it going to the a hole in the floor. I put a screen on the end of it to keep mud dobbers and bugs out.

[madjack]

Steve, I have been meaning to ask...what didja do about about condensate drainage............................

There is a condensate drain in the back of the unit I put a hose on it going to the a hole in the floor. I put a screen on the end of it to keep mud dobbers and bugs out.

...thanks...that is good to know....................................

[Woody]

If you have the right venting for incoming cooling air to the A/C unit you can run it with the galley hatch closed. I have no problems for almost three years open or closed. It is a matter of solving ample air to the unit itself for proper operation in heat exchange side. Like I said before my galley hatch is closed most of the time at night due to weather and critters and the A/C is running when you need it the most while sleeping and other things that pop up from time to time

[Dooner]

Steve,
Sorry if I missed it, but where are you getting the cool intake air for the condensor? I see the exhausts (I asume) on the side.
And sweet looking install there. How has it been working for you? Have you had any problems?

[Sonetpro]

Steve,
Sorry if I missed it, but where are you getting the cool intake air for the condensor? I see the exhausts (I asume) on the side.
And sweet looking install there. How has it been working for you? Have you had any problems?

Cool air is drawn through the area where the stove is at, it is directely behind it. If I leave the hatch open about an inch it gets plenty, But might put a vent on the other side of the bulkhead so the other side match's.
It worked great in the driveway cold enough to frost the windows. The real test comes this weekend. I'm going on the maiden voyage to High Island beach.