I think I have a 2000lb axle on that popup frame, might be 1500, have to check that out, it sort of needs digging out and disengaging from rotted popup box before I can get specs. Not sure how wide it is offhand, wheels are under the edges of the box and I wanna say the box is 6'6". So might end up with half recessed wheels. I kinda like that idea though, and think spatted fenders would be dandy. It's on 8" wheels, but I've got a set of 13" VW wheels I might use on it. I know there's frequent discussions about car vs trailer tires, but on something with the wheels out to the sides, that's not all that heavy, I don't think sidewall flex will make it alllll that bouncy. Gotta try it and see how it rolls anyway. If I'm buying tires, I'll buy bigger wheels me thinks.
Kinda wondering if I want to have the "coach" bolted down to the frame in a way that makes it removable without major drama.
I have a two burner propane stove, and a two burner coleman. I will probably set things up to use either. I have a Koolatron powered cooler, that I want to incorporate, thinking it will get a slide out shelf for easy access, but going to have to figure out venting to let it breathe. I guess I want some kind of grille that a black bear can't tear out, none in my usual camping spots, but with a decent light towing roof, I might want to go longer range. Also guess I want venting the other side for a battery and propane or coleman fuel storage. Water, I've got 5 gallon containers that could be used, be nice to find one of those pump faucets cheap. I prefer those to electric pump shenanigans. 12V battery, I intend to have one, I may later add a couple of hundred watts of solar but initially will cheap out, possibly with an old car battery, ghetto desulphated and fed a diet of epsom salts. Yah I know deep cycles are better, but what ever is kicking around will get pressed into service, you probably only need an amp hour to use LED lighting all weekend. I also have a 400W inverter that I will leave space for, though initially I may be using a "power pack" thingy that I've got, it's good capacity, takes hours to drain with a couple hundred watt draw. Be good all weekend for a small fan, LCD TV, laptop. Although, I may rig 12V adapters for those. Will go with a 15A "shore power" hookup. Not shore (hur hur) whether I want enough grunt to run toaster oven or microwave... hell maybe I'll make provision for 30A, then when I've got electrical booked I can bring the 2 burner electric and a coffee machine.
Windows, doors etc...
Well I've got a household window kicking around that's "small" but maybe not small enough to really use anywhere. The roof vent is one of the things I might actually spend real money on. Though I want something really low profile, so cargo on bars can clear it. You heard me say a cargo container, but it would likely run empty on the road, there's lots of space in the sleeping quarters, but the sleeping quarters are for sleeping, so "camping junk" that you tend to take on a week long stay might get put in there. Could use empty/fillable tongue tote though. Hmmm note to self, check common tote widths, would be good to be able to get them through doors. So if that's on the roof, it would be good to clear under it, and also open some of the way to retain ventilation. I have seen how nice and simple those Wiley windows are, so I've been straining my brain to make them more complicated
Well not much more, it just will sound it, and really just uses wedge principle. I am too hamfisted with sketchup so a quick description of what I'm thinking.... quarter round lexan pivotted at corner, free to swing downward, wedge to jam it at side in frame. knob in top corner to raise and lower it by, and to lock in place when closed with catch over it. Wedge would be internal to frame, have a little knob coming through a slot on inside of door to operate. Screening would be outside.
Hinge for hatch... I think I've got a pair of hood (Bonnet) hinges from a minivan in the stash somewhere, thinking maybe I could make those work, make a drain channel all round edge of hatch like car trunk, seal with weatherstrip inside of that. Only argument against those is they steal some internal clearance, but I think there is plenty to play with usually, and that they need "hard" points for mounting as opposed to spreading load. They will leave gap when hatch up maybe, IDK maybe full articulation could be arranged such that edge of hatch touches skin with rubber edge. Hatch prop, well I've got some perfectly good broomsticks...
One thing I'm not liking the idea of, is trailer lights on the hatch, too much hassle with filaments breaking when you slam hatch, wire in hinge fracturing in a couple of years maybe, thinking around that still.
Jack of all trades, Doctor of rocket surgery and fellow of the noble college of shadetree meddlers. "in argentum tenax vinculum speramus"