"Adventure Trailer" - your 2¢?

[S. Heisley]

Postby jss06 » Thu Dec 10, 2015 5:15 pm
The drag from a squared off rear is not bad. I averaged 21 MPG over 3000 miles round trip to Yellowstone last year. Your design is 1.5ft wider and about 2 feet longer than mine.

That's a good point, jss06. You can see that mine has a flat back and that it is just a few inches higher than the tow vehicle, which normally gets 19 mpg, hwy and 15 mpg, city. When towing, I get 15 mpg. The best check of that was on my 5,000 mile trip. Possibly the most important thing is to keep the trailer within the tow vehicle's lines/width. My cabin is 5' wide and 8.5' long. My tow vehicle is 5' wide. Keep the weight as low as you can, too. That will help.

According to your picture, your boat/kayak is going to hang over anyway; so, I doubt the flat back will make much difference. The boat/kayak will. Just adding a curved luggage box on top of my stepdaughter's minivan made a difference of 6mpg.

[tony.latham]

Perhaps you've considered putting your kayak rack on your tow vehicle?

We've found that when we take the boat, we frequently camp near the water, but not within easy boat-carrying distance. We can pick a lake-view spot and then drive to the ramp or beach area and launch the boat. But perhaps you've got a destination in mind that's beach friendly camping?

Just a thought!







Happy building, camping, and paddling.

Tony

[yrock87]

I like your design. I am looking at a similar profile myself, but reduced to a standard 5x10 Floorplan for ease of build and size/weight/aerodynamic concerns. I like like the look of a slight rake in the back, but lots of research on aerodynamics has shown that you need a VERY slight rake to get improved airflow.

45° slopes will do nothing because the air will still tumble off of that relatively sharp angle. Very slight, 10° angles makes a bigger improvement that a 45° of the same length.
Ever notice how those collapsible semi truck boat tails are a gentle rake that only really narrows by about a foot or so? Believe me they would change that angle if it would net them any mpg improvements. Also consider the bottom and sides if you are really committed to changing your profile because of mpg concerns.

Here is some research nasa did years ago on the aerodynamics of a large metal rectangular "shoebox" http://www.nasa.gov/centers/armstrong/n ... -DFRC.html

Looking forward to see your your build move forward. I may take a second look at how I can use your profile...

[Shadow Catcher]

Ours is a grasshopper design and the gas mileage killer is probably width. We are a 6X10 and typically get 18 mpg towed with a H6 Subaru Outback.


One thing I will warn about is that axle placement needs to be calculated for tongue length and weight distribution.

[noseoil]

I guess I lucked out on mine. With the camper shell on the truck, the trailer is pretty well tucked in behind the TV & adds very little to the wind load. Normal mileage is about 22-23, with the trailer I'm getting 20.5 on its first 1,000 mile trip. That's with a 4 cylinder engine. The biggest drag is from the fenders as they stick out enough to see them in the mirrors, but the box itself is mostly hidden from view. The bigger the frontal area, the larger the drag & the more horse power is needed to drag the box through the air.

Your kayak will add more to the wind load no matter where it's riding, but that's at higher speeds. At a lower towing speed, it's just the weight you need to deal with, not the wind. If you keep the speed down, follow a bigger vehicle & drive reasonably, you'll get better mileage.

[accrete]

Your design looks nice.
I do like the idea a poster had of placing the front of the kayak just aft of the hitch, certainly allows for a nice rear galley hatch.
One thing I thought of as I read through the ideas here is to suggest taking a look at some of the google-images for "Sportsmobile Barn Door Kitchen". I just dreamed that one up and did a search with good results. I've got lots of acquaintances over at the sportsmobile forum (with our van conversion build) and I know the barn doors are preferred as a kitchen set up over there by overlanders.

; )
My answer to tucking a trailer (15ft Parkliner) behind a tow vehicle...


Didn't even know it was back there.
But... we did sell that TT and are in process of researching the idea of having a teardrop for off road adventures. The Parkliner was definitely a pavement-only rig and our van was getting depressed having little off road action.

Thom

[mkitchen]

Having a trailer that follows along on the more challenging trails is great, though I agree with the others in that I think having a kayak on the TV would be the best bet. If I bring anything, it is a dual sport motorcycle that I can carry on the back of the trailer. Usually we just hike. Regardless of how you do the build, I really recommend that you put a galley in the trailer somewhere. Ours has the galley on the side and an Engel fridge in the back.
Mikey

Here is a picture of our back country set up

[OP827]

Just saw this thread and wanted to say welcome. As far as rounded back is concerned, it would actually increase air drag according to NASA. Maximum wash out angle is around 15 degrees, more than that would separate the airflow and it will start flopping around the surface creating more drag and less stability on higher highway speeds. Good luck with your build.

[Pmullen503]

It's nice to have the capability to carry your boat(s) on either the TV or trailer.

Sometimes we'll do a non-boating day trip and it's nice to be able leave the trailer behind with the boats racked up. Sometimes you need to get the boats someplace where the trailer can't go and you can rack 'em up on the TV.

My trailer is only 4ft wide and the mileage drop is about the same if the boats are on the TV or trailer (about 10-15%.)

[Poorlytiedfly]

The drag from a squared off rear is not bad. I averaged 21 MPG over 3000 miles round trip to Yellowstone last year. Your design is 1.5ft wider and about 2 feet longer than mine.

JSS06-
Thanks for your input on my just launched build profile. I looked at your build thread and was blown away with your build. I really like your design and your execution. I do have a question for you - if you wouldn't mind... I don't plan on taking this offroad at all but I want it to look capable. How much trouble was it partially recessing the wheels/tires into the body area? I had originally planned to go that route but thought it might just add a lot of work. I would be interested in your thoughts.


Regarding my skill level - this is my first ever trailer build but I did recently build (pounded every nail) an off-grid cottage on some property we own. I am pretty comfortable working with wood. I am having my trailer frame welded up next week by a pro. For some reason this trailer build has me more aprehensive than our cottage build - I just need a kick in the pants to get going!


[imghttp://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=4184&image_id=138488][/img]

[jss06]

Nice cabin. I want to do something simular.

You will not have any problems with the wheel wells. Easy to make. You can even just box them instead of the hex sided shape I made. The biggest issue is making sure the opening is big enough for the tire/wheel combination you plan on using.

[Vedette]

If you can build that beautiful cottage....you can build a TD.
Just get you plan in your head or on a blueprint if that is how you are used to working, and start building!
Happy New Year!
Brian & Sandi

[yrock87]

Love the cottage. I'm at the same place in my build. Frame is getting welded up by my father across the state

[KCStudly]

You can do it! ...except think of building the camper more like a cabinet maker who builds airplanes as a hobby, and less like a framing carpenter. IMO, you want strong lightweight construction with good tight solid joints.

Comparing noseoil's gas mileage (20.5 vs 22-23) and advice to go slow, and Sharon's (15 - 19 vs 15) ^^^, it sounds like Sharon is a bit of a lead foot!

[Poorlytiedfly]

my build has begun! See/follow my build journal with the link below.