9' or 10' build?

[kokomoto]

Here's my first attempt at the 9' template

image.jpeg (103.05 KiB) Viewed 900 times

I thought I had a good compromise with a 5'x9' design, but after reading the Teardrop Shop Manual I'm considering making it a 10 footer. Can anyone offer some advice or wisdom on which I should build?

[kokomoto]

Modified 9' profile

image.jpeg (63.99 KiB) Viewed 879 times

by modifying the lower half, like the Grumman design, I gained 6"-8" in the bottom half of the galley. That should provide more space for a decent sized cooler. It might also make the build process a bit easier without those curves at the bottom of the wall where they join the floor. I'm thinking it might also make the hatch a bit easier to build. The top half is borrowed from the Modernaire, and the bottom from the Grumman 2.

[mikeschn]

Go with a 10' build. You'd be surprised how much more you can fit into that last 12"!!!

You could eliminate the radii on the bottom, makes it easier to design!



Mike...

[Dusty Mark]

You'll already be scarfing plywood to make side panels longer than 8', so it wouldn't be extra work or materials to go to 10'. The proportions remain pleasant at 10' and it does give you more floor plan/storage options...

[tony.latham]

It looks like you are losing 8" with that rolled-under nose. 8" in a teardrop is a lot of lost room. Most folks end up putting a tongue box anyway....

I really like our (flatfront) 5x10. Gives us the full-length queen bed plus a few more inches in front of the cooler for dry goods and extra propane bottles plus storage under the headboard.





Tony

[QueticoBill]

Maybe a little thread hi-jack but how is the length "officially" measured - frame or cabin? I'm working on a design based on the "New Cub" in the design resources section, using an 8' frame (Ironton) but the cabin is 10'. (And to confuse it, with that New Cub profile, the deck is around 9' long.)

The "rolled over nose" is an interesting discussion. I see it as adding room to an 8' but I guess some see it as loosing room from a 10'. But mostly for me it's an aesthetic preference.

Either will be a step up from my backpack tent - 4' x 7' taut.

[tony.latham]

but how is the length "officially" measured - frame or cabin?

If you bolt a 4 x 8' cabin on a 5 x 10' chassis, you're still going to have a 4 x 8' teardrop.

T

[yrock87]

i started my design with rounded under front and back. eventually I changed my plans to a benroy style because of the large increase in space that it gives you having those flat front and back walls. I needed that space though because of some claustrophobia coupled with building a bunk for the kiddo.

it is all really personal preference. just figure out how much space you need before you build. you could split the difference and keep the curved under shape but make it 10 ft to give you more space...

[QueticoBill]

but how is the length "officially" measured - frame or cabin?

If you bolt a 4 x 8' cabin on a 5 x 10' chassis, you're still going to have a 4 x 8' teardrop.

T

So a 6 x 10 cabin on a 5 x 8 chassis is a c x 10 teardrop? and the various design tools and spread sheets in the Design Resources all would use the cabin size as the size, and ignore chassis dimensions? Just trying to understand how things are generally measured and the definitions, and the search function didn't reveal much for me.

[troubleScottie]

Maybe extending the original post -- extending the length of the teardrop, why go bigger?

After you exceed 8 feet in length, you really now build to almost 16 feet minus splicing needs, assuming a single splice. (There are some 5x10 plys) Your limitations then become the trailer size. I would assume extending the length of the cabin way over the frame will cause the center of mass/axle placement issues. You most likely could not center a 16 feet cabin on an 8 feet trailer. If the trailer is custom, these limitations are either eliminated or greatly reduced.

Depending on the style/outline, extending the length may not be aesthetically pleasing.

The original design constraints to 8 feet is most likely the size of plywood.

Is there a too large/long assuming it fits on the trailer. Is 9 feet good enough. Is 10 feet better? is 11 or 12 feet better still? Can one identify/determine the trade offs ( per inch/per foot) for adding to the length eg extra framing weight, extra storage volume, extra items weight? Is there some cut off due to mass eg would need brakes on the trailer, too much tongue weight? Does one have to follow the original design religiously or it just a guideline?

[djohnsonnv]

I would simply suggest carefully think about what you want/need. Storage, bed size, galley, depths needs for cooler/fridge yadda yadda yadda and see where that gets you. Pick a profile you might like and play with the drawings.

Consider your limitations height, width, weight, ground clearance and departure angles (especially important for off-road builds)

If it comes down that you want 9.5' so be it. If you can keep it to 8' ok. These are way too personal to say one is right over the other. Just be honest about what it is you want.

[kokomoto]

I really appreciate everyone's input to this discussion. I keep coming back to a minimalist concept that will complete the mission with an emphasis on minimal. There are obviously several ways to skin this cat. That's the cool thing about home built TDs.

The basic requirements are for a size that will fit a queen mattress, a galley that will accommodate a standard cooler, propane stove and prep counter, a 12v only electrical system with solar, and a chassis/suspension platform that will be off-road capable so that I can reliably reach those off the beaten path boondocking sites. It's looking like I can get that in a 9 footer.

I really like Tony's design and approach to building. I think I can get away with a little less cabinet space, and still have a TD that will do the job without too much compromise. I guess I'm just thinking aloud, but I need to commit to a design soon. Still waiting on the axle delivery any day now, so the frame build can begin.

Anyone need an unused template?

Thanks again for the advice. I'm still sketching, and will post my final design.

[Andrew Herrick]

I applaud your dedication to minimalism. I have to say, though, that stretching the body from 9' to 10' doesn't exactly turn it into a Jayco :p

You'll likely waste less material by going to 10' rather than 9'. Also, deeper kitchen lower cabinets allow you to easily store coolers, pans, cooktop stoves, and other kitchenware that is stupidly irritating to store in the 16-inch-deep cabinets typical of 8-9' teardrops.

Also, unless you want a flat front, 10' sidewalls are much more forgiving of curvilinear profiles. There's more room to play with headroom and so forth. Also, lots of people like to have some cabinets or shelving in the front. That can be hard to squeeze into an 8' cabin.

Then again, 8' cabins are cheap, easy, strong and lightweight. So you can't go wrong either way!

[booyah]

FWIW, I have an 8x5, and a 9x5 would be the ABSOLUTE minimum i would consider next time.

a 10x5 i think would be the sweet spot (also my local menards can get 10x5 acx!)

[kokomoto]

FWIW, I have an 8x5, and a 9x5 would be the ABSOLUTE minimum i would consider next time.

a 10x5 i think would be the sweet spot (also my local menards can get 10x5 acx!)

I moved to the south. Love the weather, but I do miss Menards!

I sketched a 5x9.5 last night just to see what the galley depth would look like. Have to change the frame design to match. The frame length is measuring about 8.5' as far as I can tell.