It's a 13" X 22" X 6" deep bouncing baby sink

General Discussion about almost anything Teardrop or camping related

Postby toypusher » Wed Feb 01, 2006 2:32 pm

Just take it to a shop that does fabrication, especially if it is for HVAC and they will cut a very precise hole of whatever size you want. Of course, it is much cheaper to do it yourself. :D
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Postby Ira » Wed Feb 01, 2006 2:45 pm

toypusher wrote:Just take it to a shop that does fabrication, especially if it is for HVAC and they will cut a very precise hole of whatever size you want.


We still HAVE shops in this country that do fabrication? I wouldn't know where the heck to start to find one.

But if I can get someone to cut this holefor 20 bucks, I'm there.
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Postby Nitetimes » Wed Feb 01, 2006 2:55 pm

Ira wrote:First, I want a full kitchen-size drain, 3" hole. You can use a smaller 1-inch bar sink drain (1-inch plus?), but I want more flow.

You then get a simple, cheap BENDABLE PVC pitting from HD that screws on to the collar of the drain (with some plumber's tape). The other end of that PVC feeds to a hole/fitting in the side of the TD that you screw a garden hose into for draining.


I think there is just a little flaw in your logic here Ira. First off if you use a vanity drain in your sink, you will only need about a 1 1/2" hole. Secondly, the difference between the drain lines in your kitchen and bath is at most 1/4", I have seen 1 1/2" drain lines in a bath but that's neither here nor there, the point is it won't help the flow at all because you are going to run the whole thing into a fitting the size of a garden hose, essentially putting a cork in the whole mess.
Another thought while I'm here, that stainless is most likely going to be a b!tch to drill so make sure you got some sharp drill bits. Hope it works out.
Rich


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Postby toypusher » Wed Feb 01, 2006 2:57 pm

I used 1 1/2" (might have been 1 1/4") hose for swimming pools to extend my drain out the bottom of the teardrop.
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Its a big sink

Postby rooster » Wed Feb 01, 2006 2:58 pm

Ira, I had an electrician make a new hole in my power. He first drilled a pilot hole and put in this cutter thing, one part on one side and the other part on the other, then he just tighten the bolt and the two cutters and it cut a perfect hole. That just a idea....and my 3 cents worth. Maybe one might know what that thingie is called.

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Postby Nitetimes » Wed Feb 01, 2006 3:20 pm

toypusher wrote:I used 1 1/2" (might have been 1 1/4") hose for swimming pools to extend my drain out the bottom of the teardrop.


That's a real good idea. Stuff is almost indestructible too.
Rich


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Postby Ira » Wed Feb 01, 2006 3:55 pm

Rich, I know what you're saying--but a true kitchen drain with a large strainer basket takes a 3-inch hole, plain and simple. And I sure don't want any crap going down the drain pipe. So I don't want a vanity drain.

Yes, you're right--it eventually CAN filter down to a small diameter. (Heck, a garden hose can only be like a HALF inch at times.) But with a bit of a run (length) in the drain pipe from the drain to the TD exit, a wider hose, and such a small sink, the sink won't backfill so quickly.

Gonna be using Hot Water on Demand, and although I'm just guessing on what that flow is gonna be like, its gonna be a heck of a lot more than gravity.

As far as making that hole goes, I'll probably look for help on that. I know that's gonna be a major project if I try to go it alone.
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Postby sunny16 » Wed Feb 01, 2006 4:50 pm

One of the brand names of the "PUNCH" is a GreenLee I think. THey work pretty slick and punches a clean hole in metal boxes for electricians. THanks for the good ideas in case one can't find a punch. Now I just have to find a local sink vendor.... :thinking:
I cut it three times and it's still too short!!
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Water Flow

Postby Guy » Wed Feb 01, 2006 5:40 pm

Ira, the water flow on the Hot Water On Demand Coleman product is 3/4 gallon per minute. Gravity can easily beat that. From what I can tell the Coleman product seems not to allow you to adjust the flow of water. It seems to be on or off. Please someone with the unit correct me if this is not so. No offense will be taken.
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Postby Ira » Wed Feb 01, 2006 11:01 pm

No--you're right about HWOD, Guy. It's either on or off. I guess I mispoke about the quantity of the flow.

I still want it though, with a large strainer and basket.
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Postby madjack » Wed Feb 01, 2006 11:34 pm

Ira, a correction in your thinking...the plumbers putty goes under the flange of the strainer and is then pushed down into the hole, the rubber gasket then goes over the stainer under the sink and then it should have a washer and then the big nut...if it does not have a large washer, I highly advise cutting one out of thin cardboard, other wise the rubber gasket will try to twist out of the way as the nut pinches it against the bottom of the sink...in another life, I was actually a licensed plumber...I would also advise against the 3" strainer and go with the 1" bar sink strainer...you will not be able to overflow the sink with it in place instead of the 3" unless you turn a hi-pressure hose on it...also the 3" hole is gonna be hard to cut cleanly with the method you descibed...you can take the sink to any electrician or AC place and get them to use a Greenlee punch to put a clean hole init for the 1" drain...but the choice is yours

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Postby bledsoe3 » Thu Feb 02, 2006 4:33 am

Ira, for $20 you could probably buy a hole saw (metal) to cut the hole yourself.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/it ... 93&ccitem=
You also need the arbor to hold the saw.

A knock out punch is another story.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/it ... 70&ccitem=
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Postby Ira » Thu Feb 02, 2006 8:43 am

madjack wrote:Ira, a correction in your thinking...the plumbers putty goes under the flange of the strainer and is then pushed down into the hole, the rubber gasket then goes over the stainer under the sink and then it should have a washer and then the big nut...if it does not have a large washer, I highly advise cutting one out of thin cardboard, other wise the rubber gasket will try to twist out of the way as the nut pinches it against the bottom of the sink...in another life, I was actually a licensed plumber...I would also advise against the 3" strainer and go with the 1" bar sink strainer...you will not be able to overflow the sink with it in place instead of the 3" unless you turn a hi-pressure hose on it...also the 3" hole is gonna be hard to cut cleanly with the method you descibed...you can take the sink to any electrician or AC place and get them to use a Greenlee punch to put a clean hole init for the 1" drain...but the choice is yours

madjack 8)


I understood about the plumbers putty--the strainer came with simple directions that even I could understand. (I probably miswrote above.)

But what do you mean about overflowing the sink? Why I would want to do that? You mean, if I wanted to fill the sink with water?
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Postby madjack » Thu Feb 02, 2006 9:43 am

no, what I said is that the 1" inch drain would be sufficient to keep the sink from overflowing with your Coleman HWOD running into it...
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Postby Ira » Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:02 am

madjack wrote:no, what I said is that the 1" inch drain would be sufficient to keep the sink from overflowing with your Coleman HWOD running into it...
madjack 8)


Ahhhh--got you. And I can't believe I have so many posts here about a drain, but...

The 3" strainer actually has a 1 1/2" diameter drain pipe. For the 1" drain, how big is the pipe?
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