Favorite tools.

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Re: Favorite tools.

Postby tony.latham » Sat Oct 14, 2017 3:07 pm

slowcowboy wrote:So any one have any favorite tools they reach for all the time when building there teardrop? Slow

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Dewalt pneumatic quarter-inch crown stapler. :thumbsup: A little glue and pop-pop-pop.

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Re: Favorite tools.

Postby Aguyfromohio » Sat Oct 14, 2017 3:35 pm

Bosch Colt small trim router.
I still have my big routers but this is so light and easy to control.

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Re: Favorite tools.

Postby working on it » Sun Oct 15, 2017 10:46 am

  • I relied on my Rotozip for cut-outs (even cutting out my door openings thru double stacked 3/4" plywood sheets). When I would use the Rotozip accessories to try to make precise straight line cuts, or circular openings, it was not so bad, but I usually pushed the cuts too quickly, making rough cuts instead. Perhaps it is best suited for drywall, as it was first marketed for. I used it in lieu of any work with a jigsaw...I never could keep the blades from flexing-breaking-flying off, no matter which brand I tried. I can't remember using a circular saw, using my old tablesaw instead. I used a friends router table once, to make recessed door trim, but it kicked back on me, so I never tried it again.
  • Large steel tubing frame components were done on a chopsaw, while all other thick metal pieces were cut by reciprocating saw, followed by angle grinder with either cutting or grinding wheels. The grinder with cutting wheel made all the aluminum (and some wood) cuts, as I always have two grinders on hand (my go-to tools).As you see, my trailer was done with minimal wood-working, and basic metal-working tools: I made straight cuts wherever possible, drilled out holes to use carriage bolts and steel angles/corner braces to hold everything together,and tube after tube of PL Premium adhesive in every seam, inside and out.
  • I used Spax and Tek screws for wood-to wood and wood-to-metal attachment. I used pre-sanded plywood, to be covered with multiple layers of poly, alkyd resin-based, and enamel coatings, so my sander only addressed the rough cut made with the Rotozip. Bolts and locknuts were widely used to secure most peripheral parts (I am a backyard mechanic, at heart), and the most used tools were drill bits and hand wrenches. I used cordless Snap-on drill and impact tools, when constructing at my friend's shop, and after missing their availability when I brought it home to finish, bought a set of Milwaukee cordless tools (1/4" impact and 3/8" drill/driver) for myself (they are now my everyday go-to tools!).
  • Since my trailer was a bolt-together plywood-to-steel construct, the #1 tool I used was a 7/16" box-end hand wrench (to hold the nut(s)) while a cordless impact (Snap-On or Milwaukee impact supplied the turning force (since I mainly used stainless 1/4"-20 hardware, over-tightening would snap the bolts, so I developed a feel for the amount of torque required, after a while).
  • Later on, I needed to repair/strengthen my frame, and replace my original axle with a stronger Dexter 3500 lb axle. To do this, I employed a Northern industrial 110v welder (previous welding on the frame was done with a Miller 220v welder). Miscellaneous screwdrivers, punches, ratchets and sockets, paint brushes and rollers were also used, too numerous to list.
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", rugged, 4x8 TTT, 2225 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube braked axle, 3000 lb.springs, active-progressive bumpstop suspension
  • *27 x 8.5-14LT AT tires (x 3) *Weight Distribution system for single-beam tongue
  • *100% LED's & GFCI outlets, 3x fans, AM/FM/CD/Aux. *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill, vintage skillet
  • *zinc/stainless front & side racks *98"L x 6" diameter rod & reel carrier tube on roof
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