new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

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new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby working on it » Thu May 10, 2018 6:58 pm

  • As is my usual custom, I am making some mods to my trailer set-up, to make it more user friendly (that means for me). I think I've modified it every time I've camped, and sometimes it improves the experience at the next camp-out, sometimes not so much. Once or twice, my mods were absolute failures; the ultra-slick waterproof bag over my angled mattresses, that made it a slip-'n-slide at night, was a disaster. Other times the mods have aided me at camp, like my cross-beam lift bar inside, so I can easily exit the trailer without hurting my back.
  • Mod # 1) I can no longer lift the trailer tongue to shift position in the garage bay, nor can I swing it around outside to be able to use my front hitch, to store it in the garage bay. So, I figured that a 500 lb limit, industrial swivel caster would work fine, when mounted to my current jack's sand foot. For $20, and an hour of my time (looking for some locknuts, mostly), I now can move it around OK. The eight inch diameter wheel rolls easily on my mixed surface driveway, and also raises the tongue high enough to easily hook-up to my tall hitch. Win-win.
  • 154322
  • Mod # 2) After 6.5 years, my solid 3/4" plywood hatch is starting to show ever-so-slight signs of warpage, not really noticeable, but leaving gaps sealing it up. I started out with only a set of manual flexible hasps holding it shut, then added two right-angle draw-latches at the bottom sides a couple of years later. Now, four years further on, I added two more draw-latches (the same as the other ones) 16" from the top of the hatch. Now, there are no gaps when closed.
  • 154323
  • Mod # 3) I added a front rack last year, to be able to carry my two canopies on it, instead of in my cabin, or in the truck bed (anticipating a SUV in the future, with no truck bed to use). Made from common zinc-coated steel perforated angle (doubled-up for strength), and a stainless/zinc industrial wire shelf, it has worked well for me...easy to load/unload, and it doesn't matter if the canopies are dripping wet (a problem when storing them on your mattress). I like the front rack so much, I decided to add another, smaller one, to carry my "pantry" box. I have been carrying it in the truck bed, but I have to climb in/out on a stepladder to get anything from the box, and that's been a hassle, over the years. Now, it will sit in easy reach on the new, lower, front rack. I made it hinged to the front slope, so that it can be raised out of the way, to access the spare tire (which supports the weight of the loaded rack). The tongue box can be opened with the rack in place, also. And another plus, in addition to more convenience, the forward rack placement adds more weight on the tongue, which really helps with my over-loaded rear compartment!
  • 154324
  • Mod # 4) I'm always misplacing my meds and first-aid supplies at camp: some in my truck console, some in the trailer nightstand or on a shelf, and some in my "go-box" in the truck bed. Never where I can easily find my most needed items, usually. So, I decided to make a first-aid cabinet with a supply of all my meds and such, inside the cabin, just under the A/C, for easy access. I don't know why it took me so long to decide to do this ?!?
  • 154325
  • Mod # 5) In progress: a simple lockbox (.30 cal ammo can), mounted in easy reach on the outside of my trailer, to hold my weapon of choice at camp>>>bungee cords! I have them spread all over, not ever where I thought I stored them, but now I will have them on hand immediately, when needed (I use at least a dozen at every campsite). I had an empty spot on the right rear corner of my trailer, and it begged me to use it: so, I bought another ammo can, mounted it, then decided to paint it gray to match...it's drying now. No pics, until tomorrow's update.
  • Mod # 6) Upgrading my galley/storage area. I'm removing the Aquatainer from its' position on the rear shelf, because it always leaks, no matter which one I use (I carry two), or how many times I've replaced the fittings. I'm going to use that position for added storage, whether for more miscellaneous electrical spares (chargers, cords, etc), or to store my new IKEA Bbq grill (Korpon), and/or my 27+ year old electric skillet (West Bend, from '91, never opened...found when cleaning out our old house). Secondly, I'm removing the "cube" cooler just under that spot, and replacing it with a "dorm fridge", just to try it for keeping semi-frozen foods without ice. I'll use it in my office whenever not camping. It should fit perfectly, with little changes. Since all my trips are less than 4 hours drive, I'll not even have to worry about power until I arrive at camp (but, I plan to use a pure-sine-wave 400w inverter, on standby, just in case. I haven't bought the fridge yet, but I'm preparing the spot for it.
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", semi-offroad, 4x8 TTT, 2065 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube axle, w/brakes *27x8.5-14LT all-terrain tires (x 3)
  • *LED lighting, triple fans, Pioneer stereo *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill
  • *zinc/stainless steel front racks *more features to come!
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby Sparksalot » Fri May 11, 2018 8:49 pm

Very cool. I've made a number of minor and not so minor mods shortly after trips.

Mod while the thought is fresh.
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby slowcowboy » Sat May 12, 2018 7:30 am

I done some myself after the last 7 years.first was the water tank. I fought hand rv pumps that didn't work fresh water tanks..finally ripped it all out and left the sink and the 6 inches of drain hose to the water outlet on the wall.and grabbed a gallon milk jug for the on board water system. over the years I have heavy motifed my original teardrop that I built in 08..its been the guaina pig test platform for all my crazy ideas and far ranging moods now she don't even have a built in stove as I ended up old school on my vintage colemans...sleeping bags gave away to 2 quilts....yep flashlights took over all 12 volt power and the deep clye battery left the tear to stay in the boat...life changes in 7 years and so does my teardrop..slow.
Plans. there was supposed to be plans to be followed when I built this thing. Opps! AH, gee, tum,tee tum. I think I forgot about the plans 2 years ago. ------Tow vehicles, 1995 ford explore, 1994 ford ranger, 1993 ford F-150, 2009 4x9 Off road teardrop, on harbor freight greatly modified frame.
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby Bill n Robi » Sat May 12, 2018 4:33 pm

So, I figured that a 500 lb limit, industrial swivel caster would work fine, when mounted to my current jack's sand foot. For $20, and an hour of my time (looking for some locknuts, mostly), I now can move it around OK. The eight inch diameter wheel rolls easily on my mixed surface driveway, and also raises the tongue high enough to easily hook-up to my tall hitch.


Where'd ya get the caster? Have my adapter plate and looking for a good caster that will work.

TIA
Bill
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby working on it » Sun May 13, 2018 9:23 am

Bill n Robi wrote:
So, I figured that a 500 lb limit, industrial swivel caster would work fine, when mounted to my current jack's sand foot. For $20, and an hour of my time (looking for some locknuts, mostly), I now can move it around OK. The eight inch diameter wheel rolls easily on my mixed surface driveway, and also raises the tongue high enough to easily hook-up to my tall hitch.


Where'd ya get the caster? Have my adapter plate and looking for a good caster that will work.

TIA
Bill
I found it on Amazon, of course! https://www.amazon.com/Steelex-D2581-Swivel-Industrial-8-Inch/dp/B0000DD1D2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1526223070&sr=8-7&keywords=castor+wheels+heavy+duty
Steelex 8 inch  caster.JPG
Steelex 8 inch caster.JPG (84.93 KiB) Viewed 996 times
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", semi-offroad, 4x8 TTT, 2065 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube axle, w/brakes *27x8.5-14LT all-terrain tires (x 3)
  • *LED lighting, triple fans, Pioneer stereo *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill
  • *zinc/stainless steel front racks *more features to come!
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby working on it » Sun May 13, 2018 4:49 pm

Updated, from previous progress report:
working on it wrote:
  • Mod # 5) In progress: a simple lockbox (.30 cal ammo can), mounted in easy reach on the outside of my trailer, to hold my weapon of choice at camp>>>bungee cords! I have them spread all over, not ever where I thought I stored them, but now I will have them on hand immediately, when needed (I use at least a dozen at every campsite). I had an empty spot on the right rear corner of my trailer, and it begged me to use it: so, I bought another ammo can, mounted it, then decided to paint it gray to match...it's drying now. No pics, until tomorrow's update.
  • Mod # 6) Upgrading my galley/storage area. I'm removing the Aquatainer from its' position on the rear shelf, because it always leaks, no matter which one I use (I carry two), or how many times I've replaced the fittings. I'm going to use that position for added storage, whether for more miscellaneous electrical spares (chargers, cords, etc), or to store my new IKEA Bbq grill (Korpon), and/or my 27+ year old electric skillet (West Bend, from '91, never opened...found when cleaning out our old house). Secondly, I'm removing the "cube" cooler just under that spot, and replacing it with a "dorm fridge", just to try it for keeping semi-frozen foods without ice. I'll use it in my office whenever not camping. It should fit perfectly, with little changes. Since all my trips are less than 4 hours drive, I'll not even have to worry about power until I arrive at camp (but, I plan to use a pure-sine-wave 400w inverter, on standby, just in case. I haven't bought the fridge yet, but I'm preparing the spot for it.
  • Mod #5 is complete, and ready to receive the valuable items to be stored there. I just wanted a different sort of label, just to make it interesting for passers-by.
  • ammo can for storing valuable gear.jpg
    ammo can for storing valuable gear.jpg (184.02 KiB) Viewed 967 times
  • As for Mod #6, I think I'll not install a mini fridge where my "cube" cooler now resides, because even if I open up the small space, I'd have to use forced-ventilation to keep the fridge cool enough, in hot weather. I'll save the $100-150 I was going to spend on it, and get a rotomolded cooler for my truck bed, or for the current space, if I find a 45 qt. that I like. My wife says I don't need another cooler, but I probably don't need the mini-fridge, either, but I talked her into getting one for the "office" (which I don't need at all).
  • So, my current round of modifications is done for now, but I'm positive I'll dream up more. My TTT will never be "finished", since I love tinkering with it.
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", semi-offroad, 4x8 TTT, 2065 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube axle, w/brakes *27x8.5-14LT all-terrain tires (x 3)
  • *LED lighting, triple fans, Pioneer stereo *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill
  • *zinc/stainless steel front racks *more features to come!
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby Sparksalot » Tue May 15, 2018 11:42 am

Love the stickers on your lockbox. :thumbsup:
You don't know the power of the Dork Side.

The Compass Rose build thread
viewtopic.php?t=23213

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http://tnttt.com/Design_Library/Trailer%20for%20Two.htm
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby working on it » Tue May 15, 2018 2:41 pm

Sparksalot wrote:Love the stickers on your lockbox. :thumbsup:
  • Thanks. I like quirky metal signs, decals, and stickers that personalize my trailer. I had an old S-10 pickup, with a Delta in-bed toolbox, that I had all sorts of decals on, then I just followed that up with rear window stickers/decals on my bigger trucks (from racing organizations, online forums, my racing team's decal, US flag, manufacturer's decals, etc,), then on my trailer. I try not to put decorations on that might be offensive to others (political stickers, et al,...I once did, and got my rear window smashed in '72). Just quirky, personal stuff. I've even had some made up by signage companies.
  • signage collage.jpg
    signage collage.jpg (228.92 KiB) Viewed 878 times
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", semi-offroad, 4x8 TTT, 2065 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube axle, w/brakes *27x8.5-14LT all-terrain tires (x 3)
  • *LED lighting, triple fans, Pioneer stereo *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill
  • *zinc/stainless steel front racks *more features to come!
156212148599156215
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby Sparksalot » Tue May 15, 2018 9:26 pm

I hear ya. I feel suddenly inadequate with sign envy and all.
.
In the galley
154438

In my quarters. Naturally.
154439
You don't know the power of the Dork Side.

The Compass Rose build thread
viewtopic.php?t=23213

Inspiration
http://tnttt.com/Design_Library/Trailer%20for%20Two.htm
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby working on it » Thu May 17, 2018 8:20 pm

  • While I'm waiting to order a few items for further mods & personalization of the TTT (my wife buys crap on a daily basis..."it was marked 50% off; I had to buy it"...but, I am limited to circa $100 a month for my purchases), I decided to update my weight balance sheet, to get a better idea of what is the actual weight (best guesswork-style), after the latest changes. I haven't updated for awhile, and seem to hare lost my figures for some 2015-2017 re-balances, and used a previous form from 2014, to do so.
  • In the past, my guesswork was usually pretty close to actual weights, so I strove to be as accurate as possible, again, spending many hours googling item weights (tires, wheels, steel, wood, storage boxes, etc. from various websites, for stuff I changed or added. I think I'm reasonably accurate.
  • The old spreadsheet I updated, from 8-16-2014, was after my axle upgrade, and after I started trying to move items forward on/in the trailer, to add to the previously too-light tongue weight (as it was near zero, when first built, and under 10% when first towed), and some gear out of the trailer and into my truck bed. It had my trailer weight at 1628.5 lbs, and tongue weight at 201 lbs (a 12.4% tongue weight, finally over 10%).
  • My re-balance today, incorporating small changes mostly in items different than before (heavier tires, fender skirts & mudflaps, added trim, etc), and major changes (two stainless racks installed just behind and over the tonguebox, and gear placement differences), shows 1989 lbs total, and 253 lbs tongue weight (now at 12.7% !!). My overall goal in my "weight transfer/ ease-of-operation" scheme seems to be working, as I've removed some items from inside the cabin, to the racks outside the cabin, or into the truck bed, in order to simplify going to and from camp, without major unloading from the cabin, before occupancy is enabled. And, whereas I previously had to fold my mattresses in half, and strapped a cooler and 2 Aquatainers between my doors (for more tongue weight), now I only carry a Coleman chair, 2 sidetents, and 2 sidetables inside. No more sloshed water anymore on my mattresses!
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", semi-offroad, 4x8 TTT, 2065 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube axle, w/brakes *27x8.5-14LT all-terrain tires (x 3)
  • *LED lighting, triple fans, Pioneer stereo *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill
  • *zinc/stainless steel front racks *more features to come!
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby working on it » Mon Jul 02, 2018 2:55 pm

  • Mod #7) Just now realized that my hoped-for SUV I'm trading for, won't be coming anytime soon, due to complications, so I finally bought a drop-shank for my Weight Distribution hitch head. I'd been putting that purchase off, thinking that the SUV would solve the nose-up towing problem. So, the new shank will lower the position of the ball-coupler several inches, so my TTT's nose will no longer point skyward. And it might eliminate the need for using the Weight Distribution spring bar, altogether (though I have relied on using it for towing safety, with no tracking/swaying , at all, for many years), and make hooking-up, backing-up, and unhooking so much easier. Previously, I'd have to use two separate jacks to put the spring bar into position, pre-loaded with ??? lbs of downforce, intended to keep my previously tail-heavy trailer act more balanced on the road, but now, I don't have the tail-heavy low tongue weight problem. A link to another thread detailing the previous problem:http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=57723.
  • I told the wife I'd discovered a cracked weld in the old shank, and justified the purchase of another, deep-drop shank, to replace it. My old eyes thought they saw a crack, but when I removed it today (a real bear of a job, with the whole assembly rusted after 13+ years untouched), it was just a deep scratch in the paint, with rust/dirt packed into it. Anyway, I bought a new shank. It's solid steel, weighs 31 lbs as-is; it should last a long time.
  • deep-drop wd shank.JPG
    deep-drop wd shank.JPG (48.42 KiB) Viewed 695 times
  • Once installed, I only have about 6 inches clearance over my driveway (edit, next morning: 9 inches, as measured, but still on unlevel ground), but that's because it's sloped unevenly upwards. I should have 8 inches or more, on level ground. I won't really know until I can hook up the trailer, and find level ground somewhere (there's none in my driveway, or neighborhood), and make any needed adjustments. The new, much lower ball position should get my TTT just about level, for the first time, and that fact coupled with the most recent tongue weight figure of 253 lbs, should probably make any need for the WD spring bar a moot point. My truck is heavy-duty, with extra overload-spring shocks added to it, so the 253 lbs tongue weight won't lower the ride height at all, but if I need to tow with my car-hauler trailer, I'll switch the wd head over to my original shank, because the ride height will almost certainly be lowered, with extra weight compressing my tv's springs enough, so that the deep-drop shank might not have enough ground clearance, in some situations . I'll maintain the hardware better, so a change-over can be quick & easy.
  • going low with new shank.jpg
    going low with new shank.jpg (164.66 KiB) Viewed 695 times
  • new WD shank lowers nose of trailer.jpg
    new WD shank lowers nose of trailer.jpg (184.88 KiB) Viewed 695 times
  • But, and there's always a but, in any modification, my mod #1 (jockey wheel added to jack) may be more difficult to use, due to the lower height of the hitch ball. I might have to use my old Chevelle bumper jack to lift the tongue, in order to attach the now-taller tongue jack. It's always something.... More mods coming....
Last edited by working on it on Tue Jul 03, 2018 8:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", semi-offroad, 4x8 TTT, 2065 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube axle, w/brakes *27x8.5-14LT all-terrain tires (x 3)
  • *LED lighting, triple fans, Pioneer stereo *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill
  • *zinc/stainless steel front racks *more features to come!
156212148599156215
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby Sparksalot » Tue Jul 03, 2018 7:40 am

I feel your pain on hitch height and clearance. With either of my tow vehicles, to keep the tear about level end to end, I have to have enough drop the most times I drag the bottom of the shank slightly across the sidewalk due to the angle of my driveway. I thought I had it licked on my explorer until the last trip. It seems a kayak on top, plus the extra bits associated was just enough to kiss the sidewalk coming and going. Oops.
You don't know the power of the Dork Side.

The Compass Rose build thread
viewtopic.php?t=23213

Inspiration
http://tnttt.com/Design_Library/Trailer%20for%20Two.htm
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby working on it » Tue Jul 03, 2018 8:45 am

  • If my new deep-drop shank digs into pavement (I'm not concerned about dirt roads...my 2500HD Chevy will just make furrows in dirt with it), or over speed-bumps (my biggest concern, as it seems they are everywhere, now), then I might get a steel roller to weld onto the shank end. I've seen them used with success, keeping low rear-ends on race-car trailers from digging in. My car hauler did occasionally, but I never bothered with adding them.
  • mini-roller for shank..JPG
    mini-roller for shank..JPG (127.72 KiB) Viewed 621 times
  • Though a roller might make ground contact more often, it should make it less jarring, and/or damaging, when it occurs. It may be my first welding project with my 220vac stick welder (bought in 2014, but never used, due to insufficient garage wiring, now almost ready), if/when I ever finish the wiring (garage still too packed, with my wife's junk from our new home project, to be able to complete). Or take it to a welding shop, nearby.
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", semi-offroad, 4x8 TTT, 2065 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube axle, w/brakes *27x8.5-14LT all-terrain tires (x 3)
  • *LED lighting, triple fans, Pioneer stereo *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill
  • *zinc/stainless steel front racks *more features to come!
156212148599156215
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby working on it » Tue Jul 03, 2018 3:58 pm

  • As is my usual cart-before-the horse methodology of changing things related to my trailer, I hurriedly installed the new shank, with the WD head set to its' lowest position (as I had it set on the old shank). I bought this shank for two reasons, it was the best/deepest drop shank for the money, and it would give me a wide range of possible adjustments. I was anxious to install it, after 4 years of putting off the purchase.
  • I failed to actually test fit it to the trailer, before torquing the head in place, because of the aforementioned lack of level ground to use, and the fact that my trailer is once again trapped in the garage bay, behind junk, while I move my wife's antiques/collectibles about, inside the garage. It's just too hot to spend several hours out there. However, I actually found a nearly level spot (using a 4-ft level, to be precise, not trusting my vision), where my driveway makes a 90 degree turn, so it will be adjusted/tested if it cools down.
  • In the meantime, while waiting for my wife to return from up north today, probably with more junk onboard her car (with her being out of town, I was waiting, too, for her help in moving her junk around), I referred to old data I had about the amount of drop I had been seeking, before I put the matter on a back-burner for several years. I had thought to drop the ball about 4.5-5", at a time prior to getting my weight balance right, so perhaps that figure would be right now that I was actually doing something about it. I don't know why I overlooked that drop figure, and installed the hitch head in the lowest position ???
  • So, going back out to measure the new drop, but not having measured the old ball position first, I was unsure of the actual amount of increased drop there was (and I certainly wasn't going to reassemble the old set-up, since I have buried it in my toolbox, already).
  • I resorted to using MS Paint, on my PC, to make a crude, pre-industrial, bizarro-world type of photoshop imitation, to get a mind's eye/virtual construction of the ball-drop between the two shanks, to verify that I had really dropped it too far. Plus, I just like fooling around with the program (many, many samples in my posts). It shows that I should've put the top head-positioning bolt into a hole midway between the old and new shank' bolt hole heights. It's 105 degrees outside right now, the wife's home, too, so I can perhaps persuade her to get her stuff out of my way, to do the install correctly tomorrow, in the forecasted cooler weather (under 100 degrees !!).
  • shank vs shank, in pictures.jpg
    shank vs shank, in pictures.jpg (277.16 KiB) Viewed 598 times
  • Update, next day:The wife & I were too busy this a.m. with tending her neglected, new, flower plantings; I only watered them, but didn't weed the beds (we have an aggressive ground cover of some sort, I dunno what kind) while she was out of town for 12 days. By the time I got around to the truck/shank/trailer deal, she was already cleaned up, and I didn't ask her to move stuff around in the garage bay, to be able to pull out the TTT. So, I just cleared enough space to level and measure the trailer (and yes, my newly modified jack will be too tall, as I feared, after the trailer is set to tow level, but that's a simple fix), and then put my truck on the nearly level ground to compare measurements.
  • The inside top of the coupler (where the ball resides) is 17.75" off the ground, and the corresponding spot on the top of the ball (after I moved the hitch-head upwards two holes on the shank-as high as I could) is 19" (but compresses to 17.5-17.75", measured when simulated loading is done-with me and/or my wife standing on hitch and bumper). It is the max adjustment I could make, but it is probably why I footnoted this particular shank in my notes from 4 years ago, when I made detailed computations. I've since lost most of my collected data, but I did see which shank I had thought would work. It did. I can even fit my Weight Distributing hitch spring bar in, with 6+" of ground clearance, if I choose to continue using it, but probably not.
  • quoted caption.JPG
    quoted caption.JPG (49.52 KiB) Viewed 556 times
    my guesstimate was correct!
  • ball height now set for level towing.jpg
    ball height now set for level towing.jpg (212.93 KiB) Viewed 556 times
    photoshopped comparisons, again
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", semi-offroad, 4x8 TTT, 2065 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube axle, w/brakes *27x8.5-14LT all-terrain tires (x 3)
  • *LED lighting, triple fans, Pioneer stereo *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill
  • *zinc/stainless steel front racks *more features to come!
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Re: new modifications underway, post-trip, as usual

Postby working on it » Sat Jul 28, 2018 5:30 pm

  • Mod #8) not to the trailer, but to my tow vehicle, covering the semi-loaded bed in-between trips and/or for protection from busy fingers at the local stores. I don't travel much lately, whether locally or on camping trips, and I use specific vehicles for different uses; I only use my HD pickup for heavy loads from Home Depot or Lowe's, mostly, and camping, and use our older GMC extended-cab for larger loads (I have a big toolbox, a storage box, jacks, stepladder, & shovel always in my HD truck bed, so there's not a lot of space), and other trips in my HHR Panel. All are kept under trickle-maintenance charging, until I need them, often for two months at a time between trips. Since I don't like loading/unloading my camping gear, I try to simplify the process, by any means possible. So, I decided to cover my camping gear inside my truck bed, and cover it from constant exposure to the harsh Texas sun, leaves or sap falling year-round (I have 30 oak trees), and bird/squirrel droppings. Rain isn't a big deal, because it drains off, or evaporates without harm, to my gear, now that they're covered by a tarp.
  • I left several items in the truck bed, angled for drain-off, and covered all with a 10 oz. silver tarp, held in place with new, strong ball bungees, that have an adjustable-tension hook feature. I've let everything sit in the sun for two months now, with no damage to the tarp, bungees, or gear. I haven't driven at 75+ with it installed, but at 50+55 mph, there's really no flutter. I think its a viable (if redneck) solution to my bed coverage dilemma (I have a cross-body toolbox & a pickup-crane mast in the bed, eliminating any type of manufactured covering). I bought the bungees with balls (ha,ha) from Amazon, and the tarp from Home Depot; I didn't expect the cheap $8 tarp to last (though it has), so I ordered a twice-as-thick 20 oz. tarp from Amazon, to replace it. I may not need to use it for awhile, so it's in the toolbox now.
  • tarp & bungee testing.jpg
    tarp & bungee testing.jpg (194.86 KiB) Viewed 400 times
  • new tarp VS old tarp.jpg
    new tarp VS old tarp.jpg (110.34 KiB) Viewed 400 times
  • bungee with ball.JPG
    bungee with ball.JPG (166.16 KiB) Viewed 400 times
  • My tarp solution may not be pretty, but it is functional; until I can have a dedicated-camping-SUV on hand, then this may be what I use from now forward.
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", semi-offroad, 4x8 TTT, 2065 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube axle, w/brakes *27x8.5-14LT all-terrain tires (x 3)
  • *LED lighting, triple fans, Pioneer stereo *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill
  • *zinc/stainless steel front racks *more features to come!
156212148599156215
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working on it
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Posts: 1764
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Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:05 pm
Location: DFW Texas
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