Axel Location... one more time!

[greenchicken]

Hi,

As usual I am starting a new thread on the same topic to keep it fresh (yea, I can be a digital asshole).

So I am very limited in moving the axel. Clearance for the existing bolt only allow three possible positions. None of them are optimal IMO.

1. Original Location 43 Inches from rear (Center is 48)

2. 17 inches from the back (Pictured)

3. 28 Inches from front (which would now be the back, which would require I rework the tongue which I am not anxious to do.)

Opinions most welcome:

[S. Heisley]

Look here to calculate where your axle should be...: http://tnttt.com/Design_Library/Trailer ... %20101.htm

And, don't worry. It isn't that hard to drill a new hole or two. As long as you don't put the holes right next to each other, it shouldn't weaken the chassis, either.

[greenchicken]

I have no issue with drilling holes in the trailer frame.

The heave harden steel axel bracket is another story. If you note son my picture there are opening in it to allow it is sit over the frame's bolts heads. So I can only move it a new position where the bolt head lien up with the holes.

So based on 43, 28, 17 which would be the recommendation.

I will have most of the weight upfront.

[KennethW]

The easiest might be to cantilever the floor of your camper over the front of your trailer and extend the tongue if needed(a 3,piece of tubing and a cross brace) . The floor would not require any reinforcement as you would not be standing in the very front of your trailer. It would also give you a lot more galley space.

[rkanz]

You can flip the spring hanger 180 degrees. The existing holes can be placed over the bolts of the second from rear cross member. This will require drilling a hole in the aluminum frame. This gave my trailer good balance.


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[Hamilton Felix]

I say keep the axle pretty far forward, and pay attention to loading. You said most of your weight will be forward. Tongue weight ony needs to be about 10% of total weight. Sounds to me like your first option, 5" aft of center, will be good enough. Just pay attention to your center of gravity (as every good Pilot always does).

[Andrew Herrick]

You can flip the spring hanger 180 degrees. The existing holes can be placed over the bolts of the second from rear cross member. This will require drilling a hole in the aluminum frame. This gave my trailer good balance.


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I did the same, once.

Where the keep your battery/water/gas tank/spare tire really plays into it, e.g, storing them on the tongue vs in the hatch vs above the axle.

[2bits]

I would not recommend putting your axle forward, it tends to increase fishtailing when pulling. I would also say don't overthink it, with a teardrop being so light, you want as much tongue weight as possible so I would put the axle as far back as you comfortably can, if you are not looking forward to moving it all the way back as you said, move it as far as you can comfortably do so. The main point I would say its don't overthink with all the calculations, they are good but again with a teardrop being so light, slap the axle in the back and roll on.

This is my second teardrop the Git er Done Drop. 4'x7' and the axle WAY back there. Towed like a dream at 520lbs

[Tomterrific]

That looks like a light frame if it is aluminum. If weight is far from the axle the constant bending force of travel may eventually crack the frame. If the frame is zinc coated steel please ignore the concern.

The reason for the rear axle position on a tear drop is the heavy galley at the rear. There has to be more weight in front of the axle than behind or the trailer will want to spin around at speed. This is one of my biggest concerns about tear design. Neither of your axle positions seem optimum to me but the original feels the best.

Tt

[Andrew Herrick]

That looks like a light frame if it is aluminum. If weight is far from the axle the constant bending force of travel may eventually crack the frame. If the frame is zinc coated steel please ignore the concern.
Tt

I believe the usual theory behind teardrop design is that ... if you properly tie the superstructure walls into the trailer frame rails, you've essentially created a composite super-beam, which will greatly reduce the stress on the frame rails. Also, the weight of a teardrop, with the exception of the rear galley, is almost always distributed, and therefore has of a center of mass just in front of the midpoint of the trailer frame (where it should be).

I couldn't agree more, Tom, that an undersized frame is one of the worst possible decisions when it comes to building a camper. But this one looks pretty lightweight. I don't think that shifting the axle 6 inches towards the rear or so will significantly affect the stress distribution on the trailer frame.

[Andrew Herrick]

Tongue weight ony needs to be about 10% of total weight. Sounds to me like your first option, 5" aft of center, will be good enough. Just pay attention to your center of gravity (as every good Pilot always does).

Yes ... but more than 10% is optimal. 15-20% is better. And if you aim for 10% on a teardrop, you don't leave yourself any room for error. Removing one or two features - a battery, a cooler, a tongue box, etc. - could easily reduce your tongue weight to 7%, and that's asking for fishtailing!

If the axle is 5 inches aft of center, that's a front/back distribution of 55/45. That's not optimal for a teardrop. It works, but .... 60/40 is better, and 65/35 is what a lot of teardrop builders recommend. Some 'drops even go to 70/30.