Vibration of things - batteries and microwaves, etc.

[EZ]

As I frame up my travel trailer I am planning on including areas and wiring for some of the extras that make these things so comfortable. Things like 12 volt power, shore power and the devices that go with that capability. But now I am having some reservations about my ideas.

It started with the placement of the deep cycle battery. The plan is to mount the battery in the rear-most part of the trailer to help offset some tongue weight considering there will be a small "galley" area inside in the front with a small water tank and a separate bathroom with a porta-potti both across the front (ala The Retro Camper http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=33938&hilit=puffin+for+four). However thinking about how a trailer goes down the road, or more specifically how it leaves the road I am questioning that battery placement. With the trailer hitch being more or less the hinge point of the trailer's movement, it seems that the rear would see the most bounce going down the road, and maybe this is not the best environment for a battery. I could move it to a tongue box and deal with the weight distribution if necessary, but I need to decide now.

Then I started to think about items I wanted to include like a microwave and the amount of vibration that will experience. I am fairy sure that your basic $69 microwave is not designed to handle all that constant vibration. Or an electric heater. What about a 5000 BTU AC unit? Anything in the travel trailer will experience a lot of vibration. Most doesn't matter but a few things might.

Any comments on these 2 conundrums are welcome.......

Ed

[John61CT]

Batteries are pretty robust.

[tac422]

We've had a small AC on a sliding tray in the Big Pink since it was built. Traveled thousands of miles, never had a problem.

[working on it]

* I use an AGM battery in my TTT, but only because I want to just leave it out of sight, buried within my tongue box, under levels of gear, and not worrying about out-gassing, or having to periodically check the acid level inside it. I only need to look at it if it won't recharge, someday. And, I don't have to worry about the lead plates inside (if it was a lead-acid battery) vibrating loose and shorting out. That was a concern, back in the day, when we only had lead-acid batteries in drag-race cars, and no dry cells, Gel, or AGM batteries.

copied from www.onallcylinders.com

directional battery alignment.jpg (79.53 KiB) Viewed 1011 times

* In my drag-race Chevelle, I installed the 2 lead-acid batteries as far rearward, and as far to the right/left quarter-panels as I could (rearward for traction, and leaving room for a fuel cell in between them). I placed them lengthwise in the direction of travel, since that is the direction of most force acting upon them. No problems. When I used a single Gel battery, and a dry cell before that, it didn't matter, and they were mounted in the engine bay, wherever they would fit (the stock location was replaced with other items).
* I've seen many street cars with batteries mounted in all sorts of places, so in typical usage, vibrations/placement/engine bay heat didn't really concern the manufacturer...but it did matter when hard-launching (with front wheel lift-off) made watching out for vibration, heat, and proper alignment necessary.
* Back to trailer use, and vibrating equipment.... Other than the battery, the only piece of equipment on-board that's subject to vibration, is the 5k BTU window A/C (the on-board portable generator is purposefully resistant to its' own vibrations when in operation). I mounted it solidly in the rear inner wall, with no cushioning around it, and it has survived over 5 years and 5000 miles without vibrating loose (from the mount, or the inner workings of it). Window A/C units are made to endure vibration (i.e. they're called "window-shakers" for a reason!). However, sometimes even a house-mounted unit will have a part vibrate loose, as did one of mine, loosing the refrigerant, but not often.
* I nearly bought a dorm fridge for my trailer, but I was reluctant due to the location where it would be installed, at the very rear of the trailer. That spot might ride a little too rough for a small fridge never meant to be used when travelling (others are, and are marketed to RV and "overlanding" users). Same thing with a microwave (so I'll use a Coleman stove, BBQ grill, and/or an electric skillet instead).
* I suppose that if one wants ALL the comforts of home in camp, then use all the best-built gear you can find...maybe it'll all hold together, no matter what conditions are met with.

[Wolfgang92025]

My battery is mounted/buried on the floor of my galley.
No issues,other than it was a pain to change out when it died of old age (6 years).

[halfdome, Danny]

I mount my batteries near the axle so they are in unison with the torsion axle.
I too have never had any problems with my set up but we stay on paved roads, except for when we park on a grass field at a gathering.
Danny.

[tony.latham]

...and the amount of vibration that will experience.

I believe you are overthinking this.



We travel many substandard-washboardy roads and I have never had the feeling that the contents of our galley had been taking a beating.

Make sure your suspension is right for your trailer weight and run radial tires that aren't over-inflated and things will be fine.



Tony

[halfdome, Danny]

One thing I noticed when we would camp in the field at the IRG is the teardrops with leaf springs made more galley noise vs ones with torsion axles. I could hear the pots and pans banging around on the uneven field. Maybe a torsion axle would ease your concerns. Danny

[John61CT]

But don't oversize it.

If your rig weighs under 3000#, a 5000# rated will bounce much more violently, 3500# much better

Timbren Axle-Less HD are pricey but pretty smooth

[tony.latham]

Maybe a torsion axle would ease your concerns. Danny

I wasn't going to bring it up, but I agree 100%.

T

[Modstock]

I've gone through 3 A.C.units cause of the bouncyness. The Freon lines broke.
Also didn't like my cooler back there. Shook up beers exploding sucks.
I keep the cooler in the tow rig now.

Tried pulling a leaf from each side but now since I've added a bit more weight I put em back on.

When off-road or a gravel road for longer periods of time I air down the tires to 20psi on the trailer to smooth things out. Tow rig usually a bit more.

Sent from my H1611 using Tapatalk

[tony.latham]

Timbren Axle-Less HD are pricey but pretty smooth

John:

What weight rubber springs in your Timbrens and what is the weight of your trailer?

T