Water-proofing canvas

[RJ Howell]

My build lead to a canvas extension. Now I will need to water proof it.



I'm going to buy some of the clear silicone and try the silicone/mineral spirits mix, but I think that going to smell pretty heavy.. There's also the wax/boiled linseed oil/turpentine mix and not really liking the turpentine (heavy smell).

I've done my raincoats with wax only before and works rather well (rub wax on and use a hair-dryer to melt in). So that is also an option..

Who has done what and what's your thoughts of what you did?

P.S. I'm leaning towards (and will test) a wax/boiled linseed oil mix.

[swoody126]

CANVAK

https://www.amazon.com/Canvak-Resistant ... way&sr=8-1

the folks who made my tepee suggested it if i ever decided to want better protection from the elements

the lady @ the truck tarp company who made my wagon fly also suggested it

sw

[RJ Howell]

CANVAK

https://www.amazon.com/Canvak-Resistant ... way&sr=8-1

the folks who made my tepee suggested it if i ever decided to want better protection from the elements

the lady @ the truck tarp company who made my wagon fly also suggested it

sw

I did look at this product. I actually stopped at the word "resistant'.. Assuming you haven't used it yet?

[tony.latham]

I'm going to buy some of the clear silicone and try the silicone/mineral spirits mix...

To me, the word, silicone always puts up a red flag. Once you put that stuff on, nothing else can be used down the road if it isn't working.

https://www.davistent.com/product/waterproofing/

But I'm no pro when it comes to this task. You might use it a bit and see if it's needed. Bare canvass is fairly waterproof.



Tony

[NevadaBlue]

Is this to be rigid or flexible? If it is to be rigid, as a boat covering for example, or camper covering, 100% acrylic house paint will do it. I read a quote from a guy that works at the paint factory and his recommendation was ANY 100% acrylic.
For flexible... like said, if you use silicone, that’s it.

I’m using good 100% acrylic house paint to seal the wood on the tiny trailer I’m building.

[swoody126]

CANVAK

https://www.amazon.com/Canvak-Resistant ... way&sr=8-1

the folks who made my tepee suggested it if i ever decided to want better protection from the elements

the lady @ the truck tarp company who made my wagon fly also suggested it

sw

I did look at this product. I actually stopped at the word "resistant'.. Assuming you haven't used it yet?

your surmise is correct

i haven't needed it yet

the tepee is only about 12 years old and only been thru a dozen or so rain storms w/o getting me wet

i hate sleeping wet :-O

two things i've learned about canvas lodging

1- don't touch the fabric in the rain because the water will begin to seep thru at that point

&

2- is to not tell folks to leave it alone(no coating) butt as the lady told me if i HAVE TO use Canvak

the fibers will swell when wet and the canvas will shed water

BUTT IT'S YOUR FABRIC...

[RJ Howell]

your surmise is correct

i haven't needed it yet

the tepee is only about 12 years old and only been thru a dozen or so rain storms w/o getting me wet

i hate sleeping wet :-O

two things i've learned about canvas lodging

1- don't touch the fabric in the rain because the water will begin to seep thru at that point

&

2- is to not tell folks to leave it alone(no coating) butt as the lady told me if i HAVE TO use Canvak

the fibers will swell when wet and the canvas will shed water

BUTT IT'S YOUR FABRIC...

That's an interesting perspective I hadn't thought about, the canvas will swell when wet and assist in repelling. You have 12yrs of experience with this so I will not debate your results. Now I get curious about how much water-proofing to do..

Thank you for the input!

[RJ Howell]

I'm going to buy some of the clear silicone and try the silicone/mineral spirits mix...

To me, the word, silicone always puts up a red flag. Once you put that stuff on, nothing else can be used down the road if it isn't working.

https://www.davistent.com/product/waterproofing/

But I'm no pro when it comes to this task. You might use it a bit and see if it's needed. Bare canvass is fairly waterproof.



Tony

What I'm finding in my tests is the silicone mix is no better than the wax I'm doing. To be honest, I didn't expect better that wax.. I also am concerned about siliconing as it may be a once and done thing.. I've waxed my favorite jacket a few times now, that can be done over.
Main reason I ask these things.

[RJ Howell]

Is this to be rigid or flexible? If it is to be rigid, as a boat covering for example, or camper covering, 100% acrylic house paint will do it. I read a quote from a guy that works at the paint factory and his recommendation was ANY 100% acrylic.
For flexible... like said, if you use silicone, that’s it.

I’m using good 100% acrylic house paint to seal the wood on the tiny trailer I’m building.

The covering on my topper was to be stiff. I used acrylic house paint. On the tented area I want it flexible. In the test samples I see no difference in the water shedding water between the silicone mix nor the wax mix I'm doing. The wax mix is stiffer, yet not to any issue that I see. I've redone my favorite rain coat with paraffin wax a couple times now and like it much better than the expensive rain coat I got for Christmas. Now testing beeswax and like it better, seems softer...

I do ask these things because I also believe silicone is a once & done routine. I don't know if it can be re-coated.. I know wax can be.

[RJ Howell]

I'm not a fan of turpentine. The smell is beyond what I can tolerant. My mix now is 1to1 beeswax to boiled linseed.

The original mix was 1 part beeswax to 1/2 linseed and 1/2 turpentine. I've gone 1 to 1 wax to linseed. In liquid form it performs well. Well it should, it's wax, diluted. Anyone know what the turpentine actually adds to the mix?

I'm headed back to the shop to see how it's settling and give it a sample test.

[edgeau]

I think oil and wax will work fine. That is what is recommended for oilskin coats.
https://www.drizabone.com.au/garment-care


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[RJ Howell]

I think oil and wax will work fine. That is what is recommended for oilskin coats.
https://www.drizabone.com.au/garment-care


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I just went out and kneaded my mix. Oil/wax. I can see the mix in the stick it's creating. I now have a oil/wax stick. Pretty cool. My thought is the turpentine breaks it down to cream and easier to apply. Hey, what do I know except what I'm doing... In liquid form i's easy to apply, yet seems far too much wax. Maybe more Linseed oil? Maybe a 2 to 1 Linseed to wax? Breakdown the wax more and make it spreadable in liquid form?

[RJ Howell]

I think oil and wax will work fine. That is what is recommended for oilskin coats.
https://www.drizabone.com.au/garment-care


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

I just went 1/1 with oil to wax. In liquid form so easier to apply and dries out out nicely. I like what you said and works! Oil/wax!

Now to find the right mix?

[RJ Howell]

Okay, So let's say the oil is the penetrating item and the wax is the main water-proofing. And let's add in more oil, what happens?

So far in liquid form it has been easier to apply without becoming too waxy. Now knowing that canvas expends when wet and adds to waterproofing, how far can this be pushed?

My next move is to go for gusto and do a 2/1 ratio of oil/wax. How thin can I go with the wax? How much is too far?

[NevadaBlue]

I use 60/40 wax/oil mix for my camping canvas gear (packs and such). I heat it in an old crock pot (with a gallon can in it) and paint it on with a chip brush. Then heat the resulting ‘mess’ with a heat gun to soak it in. Works well.