Need quick answers on gluing Baltic Birch to foam.

[printer]

I have been tardy, should be finished by now, the weather is looking ugly. I have my skeleton sides almost ready to skin. I am going to glue on Baltic Birch on the outside, Mahogany sheet on the inside. Between them XPS foam. I seem to recall reading that I can glue the foam to the wood using Titebond II if you give the foam a light sand before gluing.

I am on a tight schedule as I need to get the walls up and roof on in the next couple of days, Trailer will be tossed out into the cold in three or four days. Wanted the walls and roof up so I could throw a tarp over it.

[halfdome, Danny]

I've had some success gluing the foam with plastic sheeting covering it with Tightbond II.
I only glue it down at the radius since it lays nice on flat surfaces.
I screw on temporary wood strips to hold it down on the radius while the glue cures .

Your plan to "toss it out in the cold" could pose problems.
Wood will do crazy things with humidly and temperature changes unless you mean it will have the final covering, be it a finish or aluminum.
Just throwing a tarp over it isn't the best outdoor conditions, a canopy would be a lot better.
If you do throw a tarp over it at least make a frame to place on the roof to allow air circulation.
Danny

[printer]

Planning on painting the exterior birch sheathing. Not happy about throwing it out in the cold but that is a fact of life. I may be able to keep it in the garage for a day or two longer at reduced temperatures. I was hoping to get the exterior done enough to paint. I am not putting in the side door or windows, that will be for summer. But I was hoping to travel with it this spring as just a place to sleep. The entrance will be a temporary door in the rear. As long as it will not fall apart or get waterlogged I will be happy.

[RJ Howell]

To be honest, you may be better off not putting the plywood on at all. I see far too many problems placing it in the cold that quickly. Hate to say it, but taking the walls down and storing flat till spring may be your best bet. Don't get caught rushing anything... that's where mistakes are made.. I know this too well!

[tony.latham]

Hate to say it, but taking the walls down and storing flat till spring may be your best bet.

I agree with RJ. It would also allow you to do the interior varnishing while it's flat. That's a big thing in my book.

You can still tarp the floor.



Tony

[printer]

Was hoping to be in Texas in April. I hate the cold.

[printer]

(Sigh) OK going to put the frame outside, bring the sides in and work on them at my leisure (What are these big things doing in the living room?). One other question I have. How do you bolt the floor to the frame? I am assuming recess a bolt head flush into the floor.

[tony.latham]

How do you bolt the floor to the frame?

I lay a bead of PL Premium on the top and side of the floor. I then screw from the exterior sheathing horizontally into the side of the floor, followed by pocket hole screws from the inside to the floor.





Tony

[halfdome, Danny]

I bolt the floor to the frame with 3/8" elevator bolts and recess the heads with a spade bit for a flush fit.


I use a washer and a lock tight nut on the frame side.
Danny

[printer]

I bolt the floor to the frame with 3/8" elevator bolts and recess the heads with a spade bit for a flush fit.


I use a washer and a lock tight nut on the frame side.
Danny

That is pretty much what I was thinking. Might add some adhesive between the floor and frame. I will paint the bottom of the floor first though.

[printer]

How do you bolt the floor to the frame?

I lay a bead of PL Premium on the top and side of the floor. I then screw from the exterior sheathing horizontally into the side of the floor, followed by pocket hole screws from the inside to the floor.





Tony

I talked to one of my neighbors who built himself a teardrop years back. The one thing he stressed was to get a pocket hole jig. I have really grown to appreciate it.

[printer]

A great addition to the kitchen.

[halfdome, Danny]

I bolt the floor to the frame with 3/8" elevator bolts and recess the heads with a spade bit for a flush fit.


I use a washer and a lock tight nut on the frame side.
Danny

That is pretty much what I was thinking. Might add some adhesive between the floor and frame. I will paint the bottom of the floor first though.

Make sure you apply a sealant around the bolt threads and the hole in your floor.
Don't want your floor to rot out.
Danny

[printer]

I don't know what you guys talked me into.



I was hoping the one section of floor would be flat for the length of the side, no luck. I am now thinking of using some 2x6's with a piece of plywood as my base to build the sides on. Naturally I moved all the superficial stuff out of the way. Who needs a living room anyway?

[tony.latham]

I don't know what you guys talked me into.

Camping season is just around the corner. A short nine months and you'll be living the dream.

(I got a great chuckle out of your photo, so thanks.)

Tony