RV hatch door mounting

[DrewsBrews]

I have a large 42x52" side swing hatch door that I will be using for my galley door (squaredrop). I purchased it as a scratch and dent for a decent price shipped.
I'm having a difficult time understanding how it is supposed to be mounted...

I have some windows that have an interior trim ring that incorporate an outer lip to grip the interior wall and an inner lip with holes drilled into it to put screws through into the perimeter of the window frame from the inside to pull the window into the wall.

This hatch door is much deeper than the windows (thicker than my wall will be). It does have a separate trim ring, but it has no inner lip. The only thing I can think is it is just a beauty ring for the interior wall or if the wall was thicker than the door frame (unnecessary for me since it would never be seen) and I would need to drill holes in the integrated ring on the exterior frame to screw it to the wall from the outside.

Or am I missing something?

[pchast]

Pictures might let us help you?

[DrewsBrews]

A cutaway type view I made

[Modstock]

Still need a pic.

Sent from my SM-A115AP using Tapatalk

[DrewsBrews]

Ok ill have to get it out of storage and down the stairs to get it in some light for decent photos

[DrewsBrews]

[pchast]

So if I understand things right now, You don't want to screw through the front flange of the door direct to the trailer body. The door and its frame is deeper than the trailer thickness. The inside trim ring is too thick for the trailer body also.

Can you flip the trim ring over and screw them together by stacking the l shapes to squeeze the trailer wall..

I'd be marking the drill points with a divider to make them even and pretty. Once the door rim is pilot drilled clamp the inside trim ring to it to drill the inside hole locations. Finally drill larger in the outside ring for screw clearance.

You might need to trim the thickness unless you can make a door jam of trim around it.

[DrewsBrews]

I'll take some measurements.

So typically with these type they would screw perpendicular of the wall sideways through the back lip of the door frame into the trim ring? I suppose it would be critical to get and maintain proper clamping pressure for the seal as the screws are being installed.. Though I can imagine it would loosen over time with that kind of side force on screws through such thin aluminum.

I'm not totally against screwing into the flange from the outside if that will give the best seal. This is all new to me. Though my main door and windows seemed more obvious to me for the the intended install method.

[DrewsBrews]

My wall thickness will be about 1.75" Unless I decide to skin the inner side of the wall with 1/4" to bring it to 2". But I wasn't planning to, currently.

The thickness from the back of the door frame exterior flange to the very back of the door frame is just shy of 2" (~2" total if flange thickness is taken into account)
The measurement from the back edge of the door frame exterior flange to the back inner lip of the frame is a little over 1.5"

From the back edge of the trim ring flange to the very back edge of the trim ring is about 1.375". This measurement probably doesn't much matter I suppose, just adding so I have it all down.

[EDIT] Nevermind my other idea wouldn't work

[bentrotor]

I think the way that type of frame works is by squeezing both frames together as shown in your sketch and then just run the screw thru both halves into the jamb. If the frame will not squeeze together tight enough to clamp the wall, trim the "inner" wall flange to the same thickness as your jamb/wall Don't go crazy trimming the flange either, remember you want to drill thru both flanges to provide the necessary squeeze. It makes for a very "clean" installation with no visable screws on the inside or outside. only time you see them is when the door is open. The trick is cutting the opening in the wall correctly to begin with. I would just lay the door and "outer" frame together (leave the inner frame off to the side) and mark around the door frame. Cut it out, the better the cut, the less shimming you will have to do during the installation process. One more thing you might do is predrill the holes in the outer frame so when you get to the install, your are only drilling thru the inner flange and the existing hole will prevent drill walk. Depending on the type of screw you choose, doing the countersink step might be required also. Choice of sealant is up to you. Pay attention to the reveal around the door, that is truly the only thing that matters. Several squeeze clamps and an extra pair of hands is gold. Good luck.

[DrewsBrews]

Yeah Im thinking I may need to just go ahead and skin the inner wall with 1/4" to get a full 2" wall thickness and that will give enough depth for screws to go in at the back of the frame (past the rain/door seal lip) and through the trim ring.

The trim ring won't realistically go inside the door frame as there are mounts for gas struts that it would have to have cutouts to clear. I might need to make smaller cutouts even to go around the outside, in order to clear the rivets for those mounts.