How much to waterproof?

[asianflava]

I finally got around to doing some work on my tear. I am doing the installation of the a/c unit. Making it work is easy, the problem I've had is making it servicable in case the unit dies on me. Anyway, I made a "pan" that will catch the condensation. I glassed it with one layer of 4oz cloth.

I was wondering how much resin would be needed to make it "waterproof"?
Is just painting it on all the exposed wood enough?
Do I need to make another application?

I put some pics on my build journal http://asianflava.journalspace.com

[Guest]

We use a plastic pan that we have made. It is than fitted with a drain tube that goes out the bottom of the trailer. Do not want any water standing in the cabinet. Not sure what to do in your case but to make sure that it does not leak.

[asianflava]

I didn't have enough room to put a pan under there. That is why I had to resort to using an integral pan. I still haven't installed the drain, the epoxy was still wet when I took the pic. I will be using 3/4in PVC for the drain. I have to make sure it drains fast and that the trailer is level.

[john]

I bought the same Goldstar you did last fall. Mine came with a plastic stub that would snap into a hole at the bottom right corner of the back. It allowed me to attach a hose for draining under the trailer.

Did yours not come with this or do you not trust it? I didn't totally trust it myself, but chose not to worry about it due to my A/C drain location over a hole on the floor. I have no pan.

In reading the manual i found that the unit is set up not to need the drain except in extream humidity. Aparently the exhaust fan that blows over the condenser dips into the accumulated water a little in an effort to help evaporate it. I read this six months ago so don't hold me to it.


john

[asianflava]

Thanks John

I looked and looked thru all my stuff and found that hose barb. That will help a lot. I can now put the drain hole near he back corner. That way by lifting on the tongue the liquid can drain.