Danger?

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby IraRat » Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:24 pm

San Diegan wrote:That B-52 was a fantastic model. Trouble is, it was as large as a small real scale aircraft and could have done some real damage or caused injury.
Tom


Tom, in the early 80s, both a friend and I were out of work at the same time, during the summer. We spent it drinking mini kegs of Dinkelacker--and getting into building RC planes.

Our first was a cheap prebuilt Cox, just to learn about it, and we took it to a small park and nearly KILLED a guy who was practicing his putting. It was coming down headed straight for his head, and my friend miraculously managed to pull it up MAYBE 3 feet before slicing it open.

So I know what you're talking about. We were both shaking for days.

The next time we chose a larger park (we were still stupid about it), and THIS time, it flew out of radio control and the last we saw of it, it was heading over the Narrows, right alongside the Verrazano Bridge.

We were afraid to turn on the news that night.
--Ira

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Postby asianflava » Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:41 pm

I was trying to figure out if that BUFF had 4 or 8 engines. I saw a turbine F/A 18 at a local field, they claimed that the field was too small so they just taxied it up and down. Very impressive, then again if I sunk that much money into a project, I'd make sure all the conditions were right before taking it up.
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Postby San Diegan » Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:48 pm

Most official flying fields here in California require American Modeling Association membership for, among other reasons, insurance. No amount of insurance completely mitigates damage or injury though. So tight frequency control and buddy boxes for beginners are almost mandatory.

Someone told me that years ago, before frequency band reallocation, the RC band was dangerously close to that of garage door openers. Imagine.

Our teardrops are not that high tech, fortunately. I do think DOT regulations and guidelines as well as State/Provence vehicle codes are a good thing for safety with our trailers. There are a number of places on the web that make them available and understandable.

I think a number of folks in here overbuild frames and other structures out of a sense of caution. I don't disagree with them.

Also, I think this forum is a great resource for safety.

Tom
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Postby Dee Bee » Tue Jun 07, 2005 5:03 pm

Lots of good advise already posted.

Dangerous activity is a relative thing. In part experience, knowledge and safety precautions reduce the risk of accidents. But that is why they are called accidents. We assume relative risk every day. This is no different.

I consider myself a safe worker. Even so I hurt my finger with the nail gun when the brad hit a screw in the wall it nailed me. Did I feel stupid shooting a nail through my finger. Sure. Pulled it out cleaned it up wrapped it with a clean dressing and kept working. It ws a good lesson learned for me.

I probably wouldn't have felt confident building a TD on my own if I had never turned on a skill saw or table saw before. This project would have been too overwhelming for me to do solo. But all I have done before was simple cutting and a few building projects.

My TD build http://www.nfdc.net/home/cbdb/Micro%20Camper.htm has been a terrific experience. I have been having a great time.

A good rule of thumb (PUN) is to watch where you put your fingers when working around the business end of power tools.

Go for it. Be safe. Be happy


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Postby ALAN GEDDES » Tue Jun 07, 2005 10:22 pm

I've seen simple nailed together plywood boxes going down the road safely on trailers and hauled many large shipping crates long distances on a flatbed. I dont' feel that the cabin on our tears is an issue as long as it is bolted down securely. Home made chassis are another thing alltogether. If this is your first time welding then get some help and get someone to check your welds and overall structure. It's also better to overbuild than not in my mind. Most of us do. There has been a couple of posts on the forum about things happeningsuch as tongue failure and electrical problems (read back about my short and almost losing my tear). A heck of a lot of info on this site. Use the search function and/or just spend some time catching up on what we have been saying here for the past year or so. Build your tar the best you can and come camping with the greatest bunch of people you could ever want to meet.
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Postby Ron Dickey » Thu Jun 09, 2005 1:21 am

I over the years have found that even the most flimsyist looking units make it through just fine.

What I worry more about is a person who does not know how to pull a trailer and has not read up on it. We are fortunate to have small trailers that will follow up anywhere.
distance braking, turning a cornter to sharp, not making sure the tires are ok, making sure the safty chains are attached ( I had a friend come off the hwy pulling a speed boat. when he got to the stop sign the boat passed him up.),
Being careful, doing a check list on paper or in your head, Some of these trailers will have electric brakes some not those with them are safer on mountain roads.
As you have read from my fellow Forumtears there is Danger in every thing we do.
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/dl648/dl648pt12.htm
most states and gov. offers sites and books at the DMV. I think AAA has one to.
You also want be careful in bad windy weather, and be aware if a large truck is about to pass.
But look around you non of these folks many of whom have pulled these things for years have warned of bad things happenings. the small size and the fact that the tow vehical cuts most of the wind.

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Postby angib » Thu Jun 09, 2005 5:52 am

I would not disagree with anyone who said that a metal chassis is the simple, easy way to build safely, but it is by no means the only way. Here is a guy who has not only built a wooden electric car, it's even got wood-based suspension (in truth, it's epoxy suspension built on wood):

Image

I ain't saying The Electric Woody is the prettiest car ever built, but it's worked for 10 years. Jerry reported that recenly this car was hit by a regular auto that got $4-6,000 of front-end damage, while his repair cost was $40!

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