How to remove one plywood side already glued?

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How to remove one plywood side already glued?

Postby ralaco » Sun Jul 03, 2005 4:20 pm

My problem is, I just discover one of the sides is warped, it’s not completely flat, so I show the door in it’s place and there’s no way to get it match the flatness, as somehow the door and side got warped very different (I already checked the two doors with the two sides, and no way to make it match ether side). :x :fb :(

I’m going to take the side out and replace it with a new one.
:cry: :cry: :cry:

How to remove the side without damaging the other two wood pieces already glued to it?
:thinking:

I bolted the 3/4” Plywood sides to the angle frame and glued to them two plywood pieces that go from side to side.
These two wood pieces one at the front is gusseted on the inside with 2” 45 degree poplar gusset and one at the galley’s bulkhead is gusseted with a 1” x 1” gusset, and all of them were glued with Gorila Glue and between the sides and the steel frame was applied a Sika polyurethane adhesive.


Raul
Last edited by ralaco on Sun Jul 03, 2005 5:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby asianflava » Sun Jul 03, 2005 4:40 pm

I had to remove one side also. Luckily (or unluckily) I had used liquid nails. I unscrewed it and after pulling on it, it popped off. I don't know if you will have this luck since you used Gorilla Glue.
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Postby webbedouin » Sun Jul 03, 2005 5:51 pm

Had the same problem (3/4 ply) and bent the door to match. Had to make up about 3/8th of an inch warp out in the upper left hand corner. Placed the door over a couple of sawhorses weighted down with Sweet's Catalogs. This bent the door in the opposite direction of the warp. Probably tweaked it three times in opposite direction the warp. Left it that way for a few weeks. Now it its warped a little in, but it shuts right tight since it's on the handle side. Best of all it shows no sign of reforming to it's former warpped ways.

Seems to have worked for me. :thumbsup:
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Postby ralaco » Sun Jul 03, 2005 7:36 pm

Thanks webbedouin:

Unfortunately in my case I must remove and change the side, as not only the door is warped, the side is also warped and different to the door.

:cry: :x :cry:

Raul
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Postby WoodSmith » Sun Jul 03, 2005 9:55 pm

I'm not sure which part you are trying to save, but it sounds like you need to cut around the joints that need to be removed, cutting only the part that will be pitched (the warped side ply?) Then use a belt sander to remove what is left of the removed piece, sanding back to the glue joint and leaving it ready to take the new piece.

Not a simple job and I sympathize with you.
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Postby metoady » Sun Jul 03, 2005 9:58 pm

two words

chain saw :twisted: :twisted: :thumbsup:
Some days it not even worth chewing
through the restraints.......

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Postby webbedouin » Sun Jul 03, 2005 10:36 pm

Yeah, well, the side warped one way, the door warped the other. I just re-warped the door to match. It all looks relatively unnoticeable at this point.

Which reminds me, wood warping is kinda common. Bought this 1/2 inch oak plywood sheet from China down at home depot in Bakerspit and by the time it got back up here it was already curling. Just needed a piece of it but still it needed to be straightened somewhat just to cut a piece out the next day! What is left over has curled enough to make a short hatch!!!

Where, what and how can one find plywood that can be relied upon not to warp?
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Postby Woody » Sun Jul 03, 2005 10:41 pm

Are you going to insulate? If so, then the furing strips will straighten it out
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Postby ralaco » Mon Jul 04, 2005 12:02 am

Woody:

No I’m not going to insulate the sides just the top.

:cry:

The sides are going to be 3/4” solid Birch Plywood.

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Postby madjack » Mon Jul 04, 2005 12:19 am

metoady wrote:two words

chain saw :twisted: :twisted: :thumbsup:


...one word...SAWZALL

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Postby asianflava » Mon Jul 04, 2005 1:26 am

I agree madjack! This little mistake was reason enough for me to buy a sawzall. Even though I ended up not using it, I can now add it to my arsenal of tools.
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