framing

[Bill_Storey]

I'm drawing up what I hope to be the final plans for my version of a 5 x 9 Grasshopper style TTT. I am planning 1x2 framing in a sandwich style wall, and I really need to know how much framing is too much or too little. I will be using this trailer to hunt and fish out of as well as for some "general" travel. It will see some highway as well as some two track dirt trails and everything in between (all at sane speeds as I don't like to tear up my vehicles), so I want to build it as strong as necessary yet as light as practical. Can anybody help with some general guidelines? Illustrations of some sort would really be appreciated.
Also, in reference to the framing, would well glued and clamped lap joints be strong enough, or would I need to use mechanical fasteners?
As you can probably tell, I'm not a woodworker,but I'm going to give it a try.

[randy chesnutt]

bill, there was a thread a week are so back that was about the same question you have. if mad jack would come in he could tell how to get to it alot of good information was giving and you would be building your walls in know time. for me i used biscuits joints.

[Joanne]

Hi Bill,

I'm also building a Grasshopper. Mine is just a touch bigger at 5.5 x 10. I am using 2x2 framing in mine. After getting well along in my build, I am starting to realize that I have over-built all along the way. I would say that 1x2 is plenty adequate. I used a pocket jig (my favorite tool!) and screws to secure the joints.

I have a website that has a ton of pictures of my build to this point. You might want to take a look. The link is at the bottom of this post. I'm not a woodworker either so this is my first attempt at anything like this!

Good luck on your build!

Joanne

I'm drawing up what I hope to be the final plans for my version of a 5 x 9 Grasshopper style TTT. I am planning 1x2 framing in a sandwich style wall, and I really need to know how much framing is too much or too little. I will be using this trailer to hunt and fish out of as well as for some "general" travel. It will see some highway as well as some two track dirt trails and everything in between (all at sane speeds as I don't like to tear up my vehicles), so I want to build it as strong as necessary yet as light as practical. Can anybody help with some general guidelines? Illustrations of some sort would really be appreciated.
Also, in reference to the framing, would well glued and clamped lap joints be strong enough, or would I need to use mechanical fasteners?
As you can probably tell, I'm not a woodworker,but I'm going to give it a try.

[mbader]

For the verticals I used 1"X1" Oak.
Bottom piece is 1" wide by 1 1'4" tall with notches for the verticals.
The curved outside member is 3/4" thick and 2" wide.
1/2" plywood on the outside and 1/8" on the inside.
There are several pictures of the framing in my gallery.

[madjack]

...your best bet for illustrations is to look over peoples build journals either in the hall of fame or thru their profile>>>personal gallery, aslo the forum on the generic benroy is a good place to look...while well clamped and screwed is plenty sufficient in most all cases, I personally prefer the security and peace of mind that an additional mechanical fastener provides...if you are going off road you really need to be as strong as possible
madjack

p.s. sorry Randy...too many threads...too few brain cells

[Bill_Storey]

Thanks to ya'll for your replies. After looking at different galleries, it seems as though I may have designed in an adequate strength factor compared to all the others (except for Joanne's) but haven't really overdesigned. Well, time to finalize the plans, and start ordering parts.

Bill

[asianflava]

I just framed the perimiter and where a shelf or door will attach. I used 1/8in luan for skins and 1X2 to frame.

DO NOT use furring strips (beveled corners) they are thinner than regular 1X2s. 1X2s work perfectly with 3/4in inslation.

[jay]

be sure to glue the sheathing to the framing - the mechanical fasteners are only acting as clamps at that point until the glue dries. shear force will be distributed along the sheathing & framing evenly.

[Arne]

Overbuilding, especially on the first tear, seems to be the norm.... I know in my case it was..... I could easily have lost at least a couple hundred pounds if I had taken the time to think it out.... but experience is the best teacher.

The best way would be to help someone else build their tear, then go home and build your own....... the end result would be much better.

[Bill_Storey]

Thanks ya'll, all advice is appreciated.

Asianflava, I'll be ripping mine from 2x6 or 2x8, depending on which I can get cheapest per cubic foot and also depending on the quality of the wood. Thanks for the heads up on not using the furring strips.

Jay, I'll definitely be glueing everything up. Is it worth taking the time to cut lap joints for intersecting pieces, then glue and clamp, or should I just use pocket screws and glue?

Arnereil, I'm trying to benefit from everybody elses experiences on the board and not overbuild by a large amount. I want to overbuild a little though, because of the fact it will be pulled offroad, albeit relatively slowly. I wish I knew someone around that was building, but I guess I get to be the first.

Folks, any and all advice is appreciated.