Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

emiller wrote:I went with a 2000# axle from northern tool and hit a pot hole in L.A. on the way back from Morro Bay, CA to Phoenix, AZ and when I got home a saw my wheel was leaning inward at the top (bent axle) so I ordered a 3500# 4" drop axle from ABC trailers in Moulton, AL and it's nice to have piece of mind. I also installed a 3500# drop axle on my new teardrop.

I've broke both a 2500# axel, and a 3500# axel (seperate trailers). Potholes don't really care, if you hit them hard enough, the axel will break

Jeff, I was refering to the axle tube not the springs. They come with quite a litttle arch that is not going to flatten out with a 1000# tear. My thought is getting the tires camber closer to where they should be for a more even tire wear.

Southern Oregon Bob wrote:Jeff, I was refering to the axle tube not the springs. They come with quite a litttle arch that is not going to flatten out with a 1000# tear. My thought is getting the tires camber closer to where they should be for a more even tire wear.

Bob,

My mistake

I'm not sure that the arc on the axel is supposed to flatten out. I have loaded my car trailers up to and above their rated weights, and I don't think the arc ever changed.

...unless your frame is mounted to the center of the axle tube, the tube should not "flatten" out
madjack

Southern Oregon Bob wrote:My thought is getting the tires camber closer to where they should be for a more even tire wear.

This is not quite on topic, but it's my idea that the curvature of an axle is intended to give slight positive camber to the wheels even at full load. Axles track better with a little bit of positive camber - the front wheels of your car will have some too, as it makes the car steer better.

I'm talking about one or two degrees, something like that - not enough to cause noticeably uneven tyre wear.

Negative camber is normally used for really wayward axles - like the back end of hopped-up Beetles and Corvairs, to try to keep it behind the front.....

Andrew

A 3500lb axle is probably over kill...... As for 14 inch wheels on 2000 lb. axle, why worry... My concern would be that a 12 or 10 inch wheel would be to small. Remember this trailer may only weigh 1000 to 1300 lbs. FINISHED and LOADED.

For my rig, I used generic trailer spindles welded in to 1.5 inch id square tubing with 5 on 4.5 hubs and 1500 springs... I had originally intended for 14 inch wheels, but a set of 15 with new tires came along at a deal I could not pass up...

The irony here is the trailer springs from trailer supplier, were 1000 lb. springs had 2 leaves, 1500 lb. springs has 3 leaves, 2000 lb. springs have 4 leaves. All on same main leaf spring form factor...

Dale

I know this thread has been up for a while but...

Mine is a 3500# axle. When I took it out on my shakedown run around town I noticed a fair amount of bouncing. I talked to a local spring shop and decided to take out only one leaf (the smallest leaf in the 4 pack). They also said that if it was still too rough that they could recut the other leafs to lessen the capacity. They also said that they would not recomend removing 2 leafs (leaving 2).

I also replaced my trailer type tire ST205/75D15 50 psi, with a passenger tire 205/70R15 32 psi (running about 30 psi). This realy smoothed out the ride. I was cruising at 70-75 mph and it tracked great.