Remote mounting window air

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Postby Woody » Fri Jul 01, 2005 3:27 pm

I am not sure I recall, maybe 15-20 lbs I guess maybe a little more
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Postby asianflava » Fri Jul 01, 2005 3:38 pm

The box that mine came in says 40lbs. I think that is the weight of the shipped box including packing and all the accessories that are packed in with it.
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Postby Woody » Fri Jul 01, 2005 3:43 pm

It might be, like I said I don't remember. I am installing the same model on my new Woody teardrop I am building. I will find out when I get it tommorow at Home Depot
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Postby Chris C » Fri Jul 01, 2005 4:00 pm

Not a "biggy", Woody, just curious. But thanks for the info.
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Postby Arne » Fri Jul 01, 2005 4:23 pm

The petcool and a 5k btu both weigh about 45 pounds.

The a/c I put in draws air in the side and blows it out the back. On low, the flow is low enough that I've never had a problem, and it didn't seem to cycle much. It just ran fairly quietly on low speed..... but you need the right venting for it to work.. Here is a pic of mine with the side vents which allows the air to come into the unit.... a necessity....

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Postby s4son » Fri Jul 01, 2005 4:27 pm

arnereil,
what did you use for the side vent?

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Postby cracker39 » Fri Jul 01, 2005 4:46 pm

Interesting on the freezing up. Is that with both intake and return piped to the cabin? My design will have over twice the interior space as the standard teardrop, so I don't think I'll have a problem with freezing up. As for constant cycling, I am in Florida as well, so I don't think I'll have either problem with my wall installation. I agree...$78 is a reasonable price for experimenting.

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Postby Arne » Fri Jul 01, 2005 4:48 pm

home depot sells a sofit vent, I think. It is actually 3 sets of louvers. I cut the 2 end sets off and used one on each side. What you see is 1/3rd of what I bought.....

It was probably the cheapes thing I bought for the tear, about 2 dollars.
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A fan just blew me away

Postby Guy » Fri Jul 01, 2005 7:08 pm

Hiya All,

I could not wait to put an air conditioner in a teardrop. Then the other day I was in Costco in Springfield, MA, when it was over 90 both temp and humidity - stifling!! Iwas eyeing their small a/c's when an employee told me to check out the Bionaire fans sitting next to the a/c. I bought one for $37 and used it that night in Amherst, MA. where I am staying with friends in a house without a/c and not much insulation. THIS WAS THE BEST BUY I HAVE MADE IN A LONG TIME. This fan is so good, and quiet that I even called Dean out in Redwood country and told him to go get one.

Here are some of the features.

Model# BW2300
Remote Control Twin Window Fan with Thermostat
# Take advantage of dropping temperatures by drawing in fresh, cool outdoor air. Perfect for nighttime bedroom use, this Bionaire® Twin Window Fan is not only the ultimate space saving option, but is also equip with unmatched amenities to provide you with maximum convenience and comfort. . Remote controls power, speed, auto/manual modes, thermostat and airflow direction Programmable electronic digital thermostat
# Electrically reversible airflow control
# Air intake, exhaust, or exchange
# Illuminated LED digital display with dimmer for nighttime use
# Built-in adjustable extension panel
# 2 additional Slider-Safe® extenders for larger windows
# 3 speed settings with manual and auto thermostat control
# Batteries included for remote
# 5 Year warranty

Image

This fan makes about 1/4 of the noise of the fantastic vent fan and moves an incredible amount of air. It has three modes including one where one fan blows in and the other out (they call it exchange) It looks good too. Image

If you want to modify it for placement in your tear, the wiring is easy to work with and readily accessible. You can easioly separate easch fan from each other and even from the control panel. AND you still have a remote control to use.

If feel like a saleman for the company. It took the 12 x 15 room I was sleeping in from 94 to 72 degrees in about 10 minutes. And it is incredibly light. The manufacturers price was $60 but Costco was $37.


Guy- on the road in Amherst, MA.
Regards,

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Postby An Ol Timer » Sat Jul 02, 2005 12:01 am

My $0.02

I took some time to look at some of my A/C shop manuals and a 5500 btu unit is designed for a 12' x 15' x 8' room and a 6500 is designed for a 12' x 18' x 8' room. Using the formulae provided a 4 x 8 x 4 high tear would only require 480 btu, whereas a 5 x 10 x 5 would only require 940 btu. This also is assuming that we are using a rectangular structure and not the typical teardrop shape, minus the galley. Also short cycling has a tendency to cause freeze up and doesn't give you good removal of humidity from the air.
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Postby Woody » Sat Jul 02, 2005 12:35 am

I found that if you introduce fresh into cabin. the A/C doesn't freeze up at all. I literally ran the A/C , Maytag 5200 btu, for one month straight nonstop in my teardrop in South Florida, to head off any problems of this nature. Had no icing and it cycled fine. I also found when two people were in there, it cycled even longer to compensate for the additional body heat in the cabin. Granted the btu's are over kill, but, for the price it is the best deal in town.

I also used a formulas that is used fo figuring btu with minimal insulation need for given volume and came up with 1873.2 btu for volume space using this formula

volume x 17 btu/p/cu/ft = btu required to cool a given space.

My teardrop has a given volume of 110.2 cu ft

110.2 cubic feet x 17btu/p/cu/ft =1873.2 btu required

So yes you are correct in your statement of overkill, unfortunatly there is no cheaper and readily available lower btu units out there, without spending a small fortune
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Postby An Ol Timer » Sat Jul 02, 2005 1:15 am

I'm not sure where you came up with the factor of 17 btu per cu ft.

The standard A/C unit for a 12 x 15 room is 5400 btu.

A room this size has 1440 cu ft and multiplied by 17 would mean that the needed unit would have a capacity of 24,480 btu which is way too high.

If you use the formulae of L x W x 30 and assume an 8' ceiling then it comes out to 5400 btu.
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Postby Arne » Sat Jul 02, 2005 7:07 am

Well, lets deal the the dream vs. reality thing. My dream was to have a 1k btu a/c unit the size of a small box heater, but could I find it? No.

Here is what I found the reality to be:

-kool pet... very nice looking unit. BTUs were close to dream. Weight was 45 pounds. cost was around $400.00..... I would have to drag it around, punch a few holes in my tear for in/out of air, run some more wires, store it at home, let it take up valualbe space in my van while traveling. When I arrived, it would be another 'setup' item, along with the tear positioning, the screen house, etc...... the only upside (for ME) was the btu output and some minor interior space savings.

-Wine Room cooler... very expensive, not very small, heavy...

-5,000 btu Haier a/c from lowes... nice looking, weight 45#, cost $80.00... I could hard mount it. I would have to cut a hole in the tear front wall and spend about $50.00 on wood, hinges, expoy paint and some valuable time and some frustrating designing..... once done, it was "set it and forget it"...

Turned out, the new a/c units are quite small. My 5k unit intrude about 4 inches into the tear, under a shelf, and is barely noticeable. The front wall covers about 2" of the unit,and the remaining 10 inches sticks out the front. Turns out the box works very well, with the front of the box hinging down to protect during travel, and tilting up to protect during use.

Like many things, it is a big deal to design and get done, then it is just 'there' and requires only use, which is very nice..... as far a freezing up, I've never had a problem, but in a tear, being such a small breathing space, a window should always be left open a bit to let in some oxygen.
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Postby Woody » Sat Jul 02, 2005 11:54 am

An Ol Timer,

It is a formula to help size A/C in Yachts and some RV's, considering that they are of simliar construction and or insulation values. I used it to figure, out of random curiosity, for a teardrop BTU requirement to size a unit.

L x W x H x 17 btu = total btu required (17 was an average from the other formulas)

I have seen similiar formulas in the West Marine Catologs, BOW and many others also

Actually I found the reference from West marine's catolog on their site and here it is page 552
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... ioning.htm

Step #2: Determine Cooling Capacity Needed
The following formula and table will help you size an air-conditioning system for your boat:
A = Cabin Volume Below Deck L x W x 7' (average height) x 14 Btu
B = Cabin Volumes Above Deck L x W x 7' (average height) x 17 Btu
A + B = total Btu required
Choose a unit that most closely equals your Btu requirements, but do not downsize to a lesser Btu-capacity unit. This will limit the system's ability to cool your boat. A multiple unit system is required to produce 16,000 Btu or greater.


Considering the lower R values of yachts and RVs it might hold more true than a residential setting.
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Postby An Ol Timer » Sat Jul 02, 2005 1:13 pm

I hope that you do use this system, and these calculations, and that you camp only close to water, as these calculations are based on a heat pump system using sea water as a source of heat or cold. Next time don't start at step two, but read step one first!

Step #1: Choose Heating/Cooling or Cool Only

A/C systems have different capabilities. Reverse Cycle units cool or heat cabin spaces. Seawater removes heat from the system for cooling, or provides heat during the heating process. Though affected by water temperature, it can cool boats in 80º waters and heat boats in waters as low as 40º.
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