How do you finish wood?

[Chris C]

Asianflava,

I personally would use mineral spirits or paint thinner with the Helmsman Spar Polyurethane. And yes, they are both the same thing. It's been my experience that Laquer thinner evaporates too fast for Polyurethan. Just a personal opinion though.

[asianflava]

My experience with mineral spirits (mostly cleaning parts) was that it leaves an oily film on the parts. I had Paint Thinner in my hand when I asked the "Paint Guy" for his suggestion, he suggested mineral spirits. I swapped the thinner for the mineral spirits even though it cost twice as much.

I knew you guys would come thru for me. I started sanding and filling in the brad holes tonight. I got a air/oil seperator to connect to the compressor and one of those disposable dryers that connects right at the gun. I'll probably tack it off and shoot the first coat tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks again for all your help!

[madjack]

...I went out and looked at my laquer thinner and it is the stuff for paint, I got it with the industrial black paint that I got from the auto paint place to do the frame with a year ago...no wonder it worked so well with the urethane, Thanks Doug and Chris about the different heats in the stuff...if I get it again I will get it from the auto paint store (a gal goes a loooooong way)
madjack

p.s. Rocky...read your little book that came with the sprayer and set your adjustments to their lowest...another tip if you don't know it, the trigger has two stages, the first is basically air and second is your product. if your product gets a little heavy then you can use just the air to "push" it along the surface to help avoid runs

[bledsoe3]

Rocky, I'm glad you asked so I didn't have to. I think I'll try spraying. Now where did I put the HF coupon?

[DestinDave]

Another alternative to mineral spirits or paint thinner is Naptha. It too does not "flash" as fast which gives the varnish or urethane a little more time to "lay down". I agree with Madjack - about 10% is usually the right thinning ratio. .....Dave

[Chris C]

Dave,

You're right. I'd forgotten that Naptha would work with Polyurethane. I used it in that combination only once...........so long ago, I'd forgotten about it's qualities. Thanks for mentioning it.

[Steve Frederick]

Rocky, I'm glad you asked so I didn't have to. I think I'll try spraying. Now where did I put the HF coupon?

Ditto!!

[doug hodder]

There is a lot of information on this thread....I mentioned in my response to go and ask at the paint suppler/distributor etc....Not to say anything against the guys at Home Depot...but if you start to get into more exotic type finishes...not that helmsman is that exotic...but guys at some of these places will walk you through all the options....It's not just a matter of reducing something to get it to spray....get the right temp reducer, ask about what types of thinners/reducers/ catalysts can be used....There are retarders also that can slow cure time and allow the material to flow out better....you probably won't get that info at HD....some of the marine varnishes and automotive finishes out there aren't the sort of thing that you can get at the local big box store....they do have plenty of materials that will work however...but if you get into higher end stuff...ask the professionals..don't waste your money on what you "think' will work....these guys want to build their businesses and are more than willing to help....just my experience....Doug

[randy chesnutt]

i have allways used a sanding sealer first and then come over that with my two finish coats. it has worked great . it has allways gave me a great finsh. it seals the wood and let the finish coat do what it's should do and give you a gloss are semi gloss finish.

[madjack]

Doug is exactly right about a pro paint supplier Vs the box stores. My local auto paint supplier will bend over backwards to not only supply me with what I need but got to extemes to explain why I need what he just sold me...they haven't steered me wrong yet
madjack

[asianflava]

I applied a couple coats today. I was too antsy to start and daylight was fading away. I forgot to get a fitting for the gun and solvent for cleanup, so I brushed it on. I just used some disposable foam brushes.

First coat soaked into the wood
I hit it with a sanding block a few hours later. You can tell where you missed by the feel of it.
Second coat went on easily and that is where I stopped.

I never thought that they would have this info at a paint place. I thought you would have to go to a wood place or something. I have a small test piece that is a couple coats ahead of the main project. Judging by the way the later coats are sanding out, it is similar to wet sanding the orange peel on a regular paint job.

Any other swords you guys want me to fall on?

[bledsoe3]

Rocky, What model number spray gun did you get? And, let me know how it worked when you use it. Jim

[asianflava]

Harbor Freight #30224

[cracker39]

My two paint guns are Campbell Hausfeld, equivalent of the current DH5300 model. It sells for under $50 and works fine for what I use it for. I spray both oil based (using siphon-feed) or latex (using pressure-feed) paints. I'm not sure it has the quality for painting a car, but for my trailer, it will do the job.

"The DH5300 easily changes from siphon to pressure-feed with the twist of a knob for use with a variety of materials. Pattern control adjusts fan pattern size for better results. Convertible from non-bleeder to bleeder style for use with standard or tankless air compressors. Works with paint tanks or remote canisters. Has 1/4-inch male NPS air inlet. "

I spray water thinned latex paints setting my compressor tank regulator to 60-65 lbs of pressure with good results. It makes a really nice, smooth finish.

[Arne]

On my hatch, I used exterior spar varnish, scotchbrited between coats. Interior, I used regular house paint, lightly sanded between coats....

I really dislike the painting process, so try to keep it as simple as possible.