Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

KZ76017 wrote:my main concern is strength and keeping them square to the frame.

Sorry to repeat myself for some here, but these separate suspension units are very widely used on small trailers here in Britain and you don't need to worry about either of these 'problems'.

I'd make sure I was using all six bolts myself, though if you're not using the full capacity, then the four outer bolts are probably enough.

Obviously you will try to get the units mounted so that the wheels face forwards, but remember you are building a trailer, not a race car! Good blacksmith accuracy, not brain surgery, is called for here.

Of all the failures of small trailers I've seen, suspension units breaking off or wheels not on straight both score zero.

Andrew

A straight edge, a measuring tape and the 3/4/5 rule. works every time.

I got my new Stub Torsion Axles & Hubs and I've flipped my frame over and drilled some holes. I will have to get some nuts and bolts and do some welding to extend the mounting area so I can mount it using all six holes.

Check out the slideshow at my flickr photo page: Slide show
The hole pattern on the new hubs doesn't fit the wheels that came off it but I will go find some that are chrome.

I'm finally making some progress now. I got sidetracked on replacing the axles. After I get the plate welded in to complete the axle mounting and weld the extensions on the sides so it will be supported to over 5' wide I can place the floor on and cut the sides.

When you are ready to mount those axles you need to put your hubs on do some measuring from hub face to hub face. Put a bolt in one corner hole of each axle, have a couple of clamps handy and a little help would make it easier. We usually used 2 two foot framing squares, hold them across the hub face centered horizontally and measure out at the end of the square both front and back until the number is exactly the same then clamp them down and measure again, adjust (hammer) til they are even again. Now if you really want them to be right, as that would be bowed if it were a full axle, do the same thing with the square in the verticle postion only now you should be an 1/8" - 3/16" wider on top of the axle than on the bottom, shim it to get what you need, try to get both sides as close to the same as possible. This allows for flex when a load is put on the trailer, thus the wheels come to an upright position rather than leaning in on the top.
While you are at it, measure from a line centered on your coupler to the center of each hub and make sure it is square to the trailer, forget about squaring off the trailer, it is more acurate and the trailer will track better if you do it this way. Don't count on the original axle mounts being right. Remember, if the trailer is a little bit out of square and you square off of the trailer it won't run down the road straight.
Sounds like a lot of work, but it isn't that hard and in the long run it will save you a pile of money on tires. It doesn't need to be off much on the toe in/out to chop your tires off.

Nitetimes, thanks for the tow-in tips. I think I'll have a professional adjust that for me or see how these used tires I bought wear down and adjust accordingly.

I finally found some wheels/tires to fit the new hubs. (5 - 4 1/2)
You'll notice in one of the pictures the wheels are on backwards. The first wheels would not fit over the axles swing arm. I had to take off the axle and take it in with me and find the correct wheels.
Check out the slideshow at my flickr photo page: Slide show

I cut off the old hitch and put the new one on.

Now I've got to wait until Monday to get the welder to place extra supports for the sides and the axles. I'll probably have him spot weld the new hitch as well.

Now I'm ready to start cutting the sides so I grabbed a photo of a Camp Inn and placed a grid on it so I can start laying out the shape on the side panels.

really nice!


Jobhunting has derailed me for the time being, but the weather in West Texas is starting to feature bird song, blue sky and an urge to get out there

Yep I am also extending the body of the trailer to 5 ' so it over hangs the HF trailer by approx 7 " per side.

The deck of my TD is made out of 2X4 with 1/2 " ply top. This gives me enough clearance for the deck to extend ovef the wheels.

I also followed a suggestion I saw somewhere. It may have been a Kuffle Creek Cubby suggestion. Two frame rails that are originally used as cross braces are moved to reinforce the side rails. This made a dramatic change in the side strength of the HF. If needed, additional cross brace will be fabricated to supply the lateral strength of the rails removed.

If this doesn't make sense look at the pics. Here the two cross braces are removed from the HF.


This shows the lateral side-to-side brace now nested in the side rail.


In this pic the two rails are now sleeved into the side rails and rebolted. In some placed the bolt is going through three layers of frame steel.


Hope it helps. Comments welcome!

[url]Zephyr Build Journal http://www.nfdc.net/home/cbdb/Micro%20Camper.htm[/url]

DEE

Looks stout.

Hmm. Okay, what about 9/16'' aircraft cable and turnbuckles in an x brace across the gap where those cross braces used to be?

Laredo wrote:Hmm. Okay, what about 9/16'' aircraft cable and turnbuckles in an x brace across the gap where those cross braces used to be?

I would think 3/16 would be plenty! With a plywood floor, there shouldn't be any flex to speak of (at least not corner to corner). The body of the tear also adds strength, I think it looks plenty strong.

Overkill R Us ...

OK, I've extended the sides, got torsion axles, new wheels, different tires. It can be as wide as 6' but I've already cut the floor to 66 1/2". I figured an inch and a half off for two three-quarter inch walls would make it 65" inside.
I'm set now. I can start laying down the floor and put up the sides. I've got to get crackin if I'm going to be able to make the April 9th Teardrop gathering in Eustace, TX.
Here it is
Why won't this @#$% image tagging work?

I'm blowin and going now, really making some progress today.
Check out the build journal.

On those stubs, do you have support for that corner that seems to be floating in mid-air.? If not that would be a concern for me, regardless of how sturdy you think it is.....

If not, I'd consider welding (or bolting) a piece of angle iron in a triangle fashion from side rail to x-member to support that corner.....

You're going to have about 1,500 pound of force trying to twist that stub out of shape when you hit a big bump......

If I'm misreading your pics, forget I wrote this note......

arnereil wrote:On those stubs, do you have support for that corner that seems to be floating in mid-air.? If not that would be a concern for me, regardless of how sturdy you think it is.....

If not, I'd consider welding (or bolting) a piece of angle iron in a triangle fashion from side rail to x-member to support that corner.....

You're going to have about 1,500 pound of force trying to twist that stub out of shape when you hit a big bump......

If I'm misreading your pics, forget I wrote this note......

I was wondering about that myself. Just looks a little limp in that area.

Yes guys, I have had a plate welded in that area and I have bolted those other two bolts there. There is one picture there of the new plate welded in place. I just don't have a picture of that finished product with the bolts going through it.

I appreciate your attention to detail though. That's why I keep running these things up the flagpole here in the forum. You guys always point me in the right direction. If I hadn't I'd still have an axle welded to the frame and be building a 4 foot wide teardrop.