Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Roly Nelson wrote:Am I on the right track, or would I be making a big mistake by coating these members, with a 2 part epoxy material?

Roly, epoxy is probably the finest product for sealing end grain. If you want a 'good forever' job, you need to keep loading end grain while the resin is wet - even if the epoxy is gelling in under 10 minutes, you will still be able to get at least three 'coats' wicked up into the grain by capillary action. Overcoating, with any product, is not problem - epoxy is often the base for isolating primers - just always sand the epoxy before overcoating.

I got taught to use epoxy by a former wood boat builder and he had a nice description of finishing wood with epoxy - epoxy is just like really good varnish that can be applied six coats at a time!

Andrew

asianflava wrote:This morning, I went out to look at the tear. The epoxy I applied looks like it was soaked in by the wood. The wood still had a dull wet look to it. I ended up scuffing the trailer again and applying another coat. This time it looks nice and sealed. I tried what Doug had suggested. I rolled it on then tipped it off with a foam brush. It looks much better, maybe the next one will be a woody?

Glad you had good luck with that technique..tipping off the epoxy cuts down on the "orange peel" that you will get from just a roller and lets you smear around the material into a more even coat...make sure you allow enough cure time....if it balls up on the sand paper you need to let it cure more....it should sand into a dust...not little wads of material and plug the paper...you'll learn how long it takes to cure....then just sand with 220 grit and lay on another coat....you can really build up the finish....there are some discussions about using HD foam rollers on this thread...I have used them but found that they break down under a good soaking with epoxy resin..especially the grey ones, (cheap) .I know that they are more expensive, but I only use the West Marine rollers...the foam is a different formula and won't break down...I have fished out patches of foam from the others in the epoxy....like I always mention...this is just my experience...everyone may not have the same thing....It usually takes a couple of coats to really get a good finish to clear coat....Doug

I was hesitant with the fuzzy rollers from HD. I used West System roller covers when I glued the faces to the sidewall frame. I had good success with that setup. When I went to West Marine, they only had "Sea Fit" roller covers. I think I like them better because they were the entire length of my roller frame. The West Systems covers were about an inch shorter. It let epoxy into the frame which wasted epoxy not to mention it wasted the roller frame.

I buy the full rollers and cut them in 1/2....I think I have better coverage with the shorter roller, easier to control...then cut the 1/2 rollers lengthwise into the 1/4 rollers to tip off the epoxy....I've done a couple of boats with the rollers cut in 1/2....when you are done with the rollers..pull them off the handle and shoot wd 40 on the point of contact...it won't allow the epoxy to ruin the roller handle...wipe down the extra epoxy....make sure you use lots of latex gloves....just my ideas....Doug

angib wrote:The only exception to this is if you are applying epoxy 'wet on wet', before the first layer of epoxy has gelled much. My test is that if I put my finger on the epoxy and it gets wet (ie, some epoxy comes off on my finger), it's OK to overcoat without sanding.

I've found that a really excellent "guage" as to when a wet coat of epoxy is ready for the next coat is to use a cotton ball. Apply the 2nd coat of epoxy when the first coat is pulling only the tips of the cotton ball off.

Also, I've been using MAS brand epoxy on my wooden boat build. They guarrantee zero amine blush and I've yet to get any. The MAS brand also has no VOCs. So I've been applying it without a respirator. It's nice to be able to breath when working with this stuff. No dizzyness, no headaches, no nothing. I really like this stuff.

Glad to see you back here Dave....so how goes the zip? Doug

My intent is to build an all wood tear.But...all I have available is Home Depot and Lowes for supplies. And they are not real knowledgeable here.What are my options?What do they have that I can use.Epoxy,varnish etc?

third try at this

I'm wondering if its possible to spray epoxy?

I have a high pressure gun, a hvlp or airless.

I like to spray the furniture I build Its faster and easier .

Willard wrote:My intent is to build an all wood tear.But...all I have available is Home Depot and Lowes for supplies. And they are not real knowledgeable here.What are my options?What do they have that I can use.Epoxy,varnish etc?

Willard, here is what I recommend. Based on what I've read, and the results of several people I know who've used it, it's just about the "cat's meow" when it comes to exterior finishes. Not inexpensive........just the best.

http://www.bristolfinish.com/

Willard,
If you look up above you will find "Rich's List". in it you will find places to buy whatever you need that can be shipped to you.

Home Depot in Joplin carries marine expoy (best) but only in pints. It is $17.00. Very expensive to buy a gallon that way. They also have a poly based epoxy and there is some debate over it's use. It is $39.00 a gal.

Home Depot may be able to order larger sizes. Not sure.

Lowes has the same poly epoxy at the same price.

Hope it helps
Aunti M

Andy...don't spray epoxy...if you have a commercial operation that is spraying chopped glass and resin to build boat hulls is one thing...otherwise, just roll it on and tip it off...way too thick to spray and you'd end up throwing the gun away in the end...Doug

Thanks Doug

darn. Are you sure I couldnt spray with airless if it is thick

I can shoot unthinned latex or laquer with it and I can boost preasure for thicker stuff.

If not o well I can always do it with a roller and brush

Thanks Andy

I agree with Doug, don't use a sprayer. for one thing the expoxy is to thick and it would ruin your spray equipment. Even if you cleaned your equipment before the expoxy gelled up, it be hard to get all of it and sprayer probably would not work again. Not worth the trouble.

Andy.....if you still question it...mix some up and run it through a viscosity cup...for me...I don't think it's worth the price of a bunch of equipment, when rollers are pretty cheap...but for an easy test...pour a chilled bottle of syrup or honey into the gun...see how it sprays...it's easier to clean up than the real thing...Doug

doug

great idea i'll remember that and give it a shot