Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I've been following Miriam's thread about her galley hatch with interest.
I used the hinge from Grant Whipp (the flat huricane one) and was under the impression that it would seal better than the 1/4" offset one.
I did not put the 1/4" step on the galley radius, and now there is no room for the hatch seal. My qusetion; What is the best way too rectify my error?

P.S. The tear worked well on our honeymoon!!

Jim,

rooster wrote:P.S. The tear worked well on our honeymoon!!

It's still in one piece?

rooster wrote:I've been following Miriam's thread about her galley hatch with interest.
I used the hinge from Grant Whipp (the flat huricane one) and was under the impression that it would seal better than the 1/4" offset one.
I did not put the 1/4" step on the galley radius, and now there is no room for the hatch seal. My qusetion; What is the best way too rectify my error?

P.S. The tear worked well on our honeymoon!!

Jim,

Jim, Get yourself a 1/4" rabbet bit and from the outside route a 1/4" rabbet half way into the side of your tear. I'm assuming you have a plywood and aluminum lip there. After it is rabbeted get a flush top bearing router bit and run the bearing in the rabbet you just made and it will remove the remander of the material you are trying to remove. That's the way I would do it. Danny

halfdome, Danny wrote:

rooster wrote:I've been following Miriam's thread about her galley hatch with interest.
I used the hinge from Grant Whipp (the flat huricane one) and was under the impression that it would seal better than the 1/4" offset one.
I did not put the 1/4" step on the galley radius, and now there is no room for the hatch seal. My qusetion; What is the best way too rectify my error?

P.S. The tear worked well on our honeymoon!!

Jim,

Jim, Get yourself a 1/4" rabbet bit and from the outside route a 1/4" rabbet half way into the side of your tear. I'm assuming you have a plywood and aluminum lip there. After it is rabbeted get a flush top bearing router bit and run the bearing in the rabbet you just made and it will remove the remander of the material you are trying to remove. That's the way I would do it. Danny

That's the way I did it but used a 3/8" bit.

I painted myself into the same corner

My solution was to cover the tear from the front lower edge to the top of the hatch with hard board twice. The first layer gave me the 1/4" gap for the trim and seals and the second layer kept the hatch and roof on the same plane. In essence I built up a notch rather than cut it out of my galley sides.

I added a few pounds to the tear due to my mistake but I ended up with a tear I can walk around on for what ever that is worth.



I had gotten those curves just the way I wanted and couldn't risk screwing them up with my router. I could just see getting away from me.

worked for me

Better believe I am watching. Just keep um coming.

Rooster, I don't have a router so I am planning early. I hope you get your fix.

Happy Camping
Miriam

Miriam C. wrote::thinking:
Better believe I am watching. Just keep um coming.

Rooster, I don't have a router so I am planning early. I hope you get your fix.

Happy Camping
Miriam

Actually using a router the way I described is the best way to keep everything at a perfect measurement and the radius comes out perfect. Using a jig saw is not as accurate and easy to screw things up. A lot of water attacks that area. A $100 trim router would do the job. Danny

Now if I could just learn to buy a lottery ticket.

I will seal the edges extra good. How's that.
Miriam

Just a thought but since you are so far along can't you just get a piece of 1/4"alum. flat bar and put it under the hinge on the cabin side.

My hatch fits so good, i'm gonna use a real thin piece of rubber seal on the hatch and the edge to seal it up..should work out ok.

on second thought, i'll use some tite bond on the wood edge, and just the thin rubber seal on the lid...yeah, thats the ticket.

I have also painted myself into the same corner and plan to use the two Jim's solution. Flat bar under the cabin side of the hinge and a skinny seaL. Don't have Grants hinge yet, somewhere in shipping but will mock up with temporary butt hinge tomorrow and see if the fit is ok.
JG

Well, Everyone gave me some great choices to muld over,
1. rotor. 2. 1/4" alum. shim, and 3. thin rubber seal.

#3 sounds the easiest. #2 will take a little more effort and #1 will take some doing and I'll have to make sure not to scratch the skin.

Thanks all . . . .

Jim,