Hatch Curve--Doable--Madjack--finally! some pics!

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Postby angib » Mon Sep 11, 2006 8:54 am

Jim, to fix thin wood in place, you can borrow a technique from the builders of cold-moulded boats - they had the problem of fixing down thin plies without leaving fasteners behind.

They used staples, which are fairly easy to remove after the glue has set. To make it easier to get the staples out, put something underneath them. The old guys used to use thin wire, but now we have the perfect material - the polypropylene tape that's used to band parcels/pallets. This works really, really well and pulling out all the staples in one go becomes fun!

The tape is strong/stiff enough that you can also use nails with a resonably large head - the tape spreads the load enough that you don't get a dimple where the nail head was.

I have found the easiest way to get this tape is to ask factories that receive it on deliveries - in Britain, this can be achieved with the traditional industrial bribe, a packet of Jaffa Cakes to be shared around at tea break, but I guess you'll have to work out the US equivalent:

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Postby kayakrguy » Mon Sep 11, 2006 9:31 am

Hi Everyone,

Thanks for the good advice and suggestions....

For gluing roof and hatch skins--and real advantage to using Tightbond 3 or Gorilla glue?--this will be critical if I don't use screws/nails.

Dan, do the big boxes carry '4 penny box nails' (new ones to me <g>) Would like to see some before deciding to try your method...

Tony, about the staple/brad nailer--electric or air--I don't have air.
I take it you didn't have a problem with punch through--some folks, I think, have said they did.

Miriam...yeah, I got the ratchet tie downs all lined up to hold the skin down with the help of some boards.

Off to sand that hatch curve 1 <g>

Have a gread day, everyone....
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Pictures of the new hatch curve....

Postby kayakrguy » Mon Sep 11, 2006 3:29 pm

Hi Folks,

Took pictures of the 'New' Hatch curve profile--well more than just a new hatch proflle. We lost the 'Humpback Whale' feature and opened the curve a lot. Would appreciate your evaluations of the new curve's doability...

Thanks for your help!

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Second picture of hatch curve...

Postby kayakrguy » Mon Sep 11, 2006 3:31 pm

Folks,
I put two pics in the last post but only one came through...here is the second pciture of the hatch curve...

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A disposition to preserve, and an ability to improve, taken together, would be my standard of a statesman...

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Ok, last try--second picture

Postby kayakrguy » Mon Sep 11, 2006 3:33 pm

Obviously I am still challenged by the pics thing....last try to get the second pic in a note...

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Postby halfdome, Danny » Mon Sep 11, 2006 4:13 pm

That looks good to me. Good job :thumbsup: . Danny
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Postby madjack » Mon Sep 11, 2006 8:40 pm

Jim, it looks a LOT better...I lke whales ...but......is your hatch gonna start at the seam in the side,,,just wondering
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Postby mikeschn » Mon Sep 11, 2006 8:43 pm

It looks better to me. The sharp raidus on the back is gone!

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Trimmed some more...

Postby kayakrguy » Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:19 pm

Dan, MJ, Mike,

Thanks for your assessments. We took a little more off so that there is more of a curve starting just behind the door frame.

Madjack, your question is a good one. Today we seriously looked at the Hatch hinge issue. Let me recap.

1) Ideally, I want the hatch to be one piece of ply...(who doesn't)

2) but when I plot 48" on the curve it puts the hatch hinge way below the seam on the hatch wall.

3) we will dryfit the walls tomorrow and look at the hinge placement thingie then...it may be better with the walls 15" higher on the trailer floor.

4) Any thoughts about hatch size (and weight! gratefully entertained...

Anyone whose hatch builds have stayed at one sheet of ply--let me know how you did it...

Thanks,

Jim

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