Plywood blues

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby Tripmaker » Fri Sep 15, 2006 2:24 pm

Ira wrote:
Tripmaker wrote:
Ira wrote:So why don't you just get a thinner ply material for the solid wall, and laminate the interior wood that you want to use for your cabin?

Structurally, you can equal the 3/4 this way.

Solid wall requires a little more planning with the wires, since you have to run through your roof spars and under-floor, but a ton of guys have done it here.


That's what I plan to do. See my earlier post.


Ooops. It's a bitch getting old.


Not really. I had a brain fart as well. I just purchased my wood and took it home and read your post. I'm now thinking why didn't I get a 1/2 4x10 and glue the birch to that instead of overlapping 4x8's. Guess it doesn't matter, it should work out the same. Just one extra small piece to glue up. The 4x8's are probably a bit cheaper though.
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Postby Gage » Mon Sep 18, 2006 5:14 am

Just how big is your sleeping compartment? I'll bet it's less than 7 feet. Something else to think about.

Have a good day.

:thinking:
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Postby Tripmaker » Mon Sep 18, 2006 8:07 am

Gage wrote:Just how big is your sleeping compartment? I'll bet it's less than 7 feet. Something else to think about.

Have a good day.

:thinking:


I'm making it 82" just big enough for a queen size matress. I'm going to put a straight bulkhead wall out of 2x2's between the two sections rather than offsetting cabinets. The wall will also be my main wireing chase. Making it 10' long will give me plenty of room for galley storage. I'll have a seam in my inner plywood in the galley but it should be hidden by cabinets. If you have any suggestions or see problems with this let me know. I'm sure there is lots of stuff I haven't thought about yet. :thinking:
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Postby dhazard » Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:59 pm

How about using a 4x8 with a hinge?
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Postby Tripmaker » Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:47 am

Looks like a good idea DHAZARD but I need the wall strength as I am building a 10' camper on a 8' frame. Looks like you have a stout frame under your's.

I looked at your album. Do you have a picture of the outside front with the A/C installed? Not sure how it works out with the box you have on the tongue. Both look like a good idea though. Also, where did you find the LED lights you used on the inside? Are they 12V or 110?

Thanks
Jim
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Postby dhazard » Thu Sep 21, 2006 9:57 pm

Hi Jim, My trailer is a 10’ on a 10’ frame. The frame is 1/8” X 2” angle, as light as I think is safe… I am relying on the galley cabinets for some of the strength in the back of the trailer… I will post some shots of the A/C next month, I am putting in massive OT at work now and won’t have time to uncover it. The bottom of the box is expanded metal and I will add 3” round boat vents on the sides at the top to let out the hot air. I am going to put a Honda 2k next to it under the box. The LED are backup lights for a truck and are from Del City. Check out www.delcity.net
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Postby dhazard » Thu Sep 21, 2006 10:07 pm

I do have this shot of the AC on the inside, hope it helps. Dan
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Postby Tripmaker » Fri Sep 22, 2006 6:41 am

DHAZARD.. Those lights look cool. Is one bright enough to light the insid of the TD or are 2 needed? Do you know of anything in 12V reading lights, more of a an adjustable spot light?

I saw the other picture of the AC from the inside and wondered how you were venting it with the box on the front. Your explanation helps. Thanks Jim
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Postby dhazard » Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:47 pm

Jim, I am happy with the LED light, I added a 1K pot in series with them to work as a dimmer. I have one above each door and they light the inside nicely. I would recommend using two, they use so little power that on a 3 amp meter it doesn’t even move when the lights are on. Should be able to run them for days without killing the battery.
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Postby Tripmaker » Mon Sep 25, 2006 7:56 am

The dimmer sounds like a good idea, good to set the mood :twisted: HEHE. The ideas keep coming.....Thanks
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