Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm still coming up with my exterior cover I'm leaning towards a paint job. Just wondering what would be a good sealent to put over paint to help protect it from sun, weather, wind from pulling it?
Thanks for any advise on what you used. Scott

Good question.... I've sanded , primed, sanded, primed and waiting for a nice November day to do the painting.

I am wanting to get a good exterior paint . I think any exterior paint made for houses and barns would already have the protection for UV etc.

Julie

oklahomajewel wrote:I think any exterior paint made for houses and barns would already have the protection for UV etc.
Julie

Very true, but what about the wind wear. 8 hours at 65mph I don't figure any house takes that.

Like Julie...........I am waiting for a good day to paint(but here in Cleveland that might not be until spring time) and I'm using exterior primer and house paint on my wood trim.

Maybe others who chose to paint will post also.

Barb

I used marine topside paint, figured if it could handle the winds/waters it should be able to handle towing/camping. Plus, our tear is stored in the garage.

Interlux - Brightside Polyurethane is a great paint to work with IMHO. it is a marine topside paint, also.
can be had from http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do
James town has a nice selection of fasteners and hardware.

Jst83 wrote:I'm leaning towards a paint job.

*hugs Jst83*

Rasp & Loader both have great suggestions. It can be done roll & tip method too. No need for air compressor, HVLP sprayers, etc. The paint job is 90% bodywork. These are great suggestions if you want a near show quality paint job.

As for exterior latex, it works great too. I'm going to use it on my camper and I'm adding texture to it so won't need a flawless product to paint. You won't get the extreme gloss or showroom finish by using it, but if you're looking for a nice looking paint job, that's easily repairable, then by all means go for it!

steve wolverton wrote:As for exterior latex, it works great too. I'm going to use it on my camper and I'm adding texture to it so won't need a flawless product to paint. You won't get the extreme gloss or showroom finish by using it, but if you're looking for a nice looking paint job, that's easily repairable, then by all means go for it!

Do you plan to put a coat of anything over the paint for added protection or leave it as is?
What type of texture? I was thinking of that myself. Will the texture wear down with the wind from pulling it?

Scott

Jst83 wrote:Do you plan to put a coat of anything over the paint for added protection or leave it as is?

No coating, it will be left as is. The paint is the protection (UV inhibitor for the epoxy too), as exterior latex is just dried rubber.

Jst83 wrote:What type of texture? I was thinking of that myself. Will the texture wear down with the wind from pulling it?

Here's a link: http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=47

I think I'm going to try the medium texture.

As far as wind pulling at it, I'm not concerned with it. These products are often used in high-traffic non-skid settings (boats, stairways, etc.) where there is a lot more pounding than air resistance.

I'll keep you updated if you'd like - I should be painting mine in a week or so with the stuff.

steve wolverton wrote:I'll keep you updated if you'd like - I should be painting mine in a week or so with the stuff.

Thanks I'll be looking foward to the outcome. I won't be able to paint till spring which is ok I still have lots to do before I think of painting. Just like planing ahead

The top of my tear is good quality exterior paint. I figure I can touch it up real easy any time it is necessary.

dave

dwgriff1 wrote:The top of my tear is good quality exterior paint. I figure I can touch it up real easy any time it is necessary.
dave

How did you apply your paint?

I've used automotive clear and base/clear systems for top coating the tear...sprayed through a gravity feed HVLP gun...it's a lot more expensive, but I can wash and wax it like a car and it really shows off the wood underneath...Doug

doug hodder wrote:I've used automotive clear and base/clear systems for top coating the tear...sprayed through a gravity feed HVLP gun...it's a lot more expensive, but I can wash and wax it like a car and it really shows off the wood underneath...Doug

Very Good, How well will that work over regular household Paint.

I'd think that any good enamel paint would work, latex or oil. I chose oil based porch and deck enamel (glossy). What I didn't do is to seal well enough and I'm having problems because of that.

Paint if you want, it makes a nice finish...BUT...SEAL IT PROPERLY. At least 3 or 4 coats of exterior varnish, or better yet, use epoxy. I would even recommend putting 3"-4" glass tape on the edge joints and feathering the edges so that it is not so obvious. If I had to do it over again, I'd seal with epoxy and glass tape.

Originally, I sprayed on my primer and enamel finish. For redoing some parts, I used a short nap roller and it looks OK. I wouldn't try it with a brush though.