Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I guess the Generic Benroy plans have pretty much taken over my little brain and when the weather gets better, I'm going to dive in. I have heard of a paint called Armorpoxy that is touted as a one-part epoxy paint that apparently has a good gloss and can withstand the elements. Has anyone had any experience with this product?

Check out their website

http://www.armorpoxy.com/

They have several tech pdf's for their different products.

Seems the Armorpoxy COLOR is NOT UV resistant.

The EpoxyROOF might be an option but is terribly expensive -- $229 for 2.5 gal can.

I read the instructions off the can of garage floor epoxy at HD and the instructions stated "Not for vertical surfaces" -- I did NOT find this warning in the tech sheets on Armorpoxy.

An email to customer service might yeild some insight.

Geron

Hey Jack,

Sorry this isn't about Armorpoxybut.....
Here's a paint system that some of the tear drop builders have used over epoxy. I've painted several boats with it myself and it lasts well in a salt water environment, so I bet it would be excellent for a tear drop. Here's the story.

Interlux Pre-Kote Primer

Prekote is a unique under coater for use with Brightside Polyurethane one-part topside finish. Simply roll 2 coats on top of sanded epoxy, sand smooth and apply the Brightside color of your choice. Folks often remarked on the smooth paint finishes on our boats. One of our secrets is high build primer; it’s a thick, easily sanded primer that’s rolled onto the hull prior to painting. Much of the primer is sanded off, leaving all the scratches and dings filled and a very smooth surface.

Interlux Brightsides Paint (Marine Polyurethane)

This one-part polyurethane paint is glossy, durable, and easy to use. Roll it on with a foam roller, tip it out with a brush, and everyone will think you’ve sprayed your Tear Drop. It comes in lots of colors, it's not cheap though. About $30 a quart.

If you use this system, you'll be one happy camper.

Steve, how many quarts do you think it would take to do a tear... and I assume it would take 2 coats?

Hmmm... The data sheet says the 1 part ArmEpoxy is an oil based enamel? It's not even a urethane? Might as well use Rustoleum. I would think at $67. a gallon it kind of overpriced for what it is. Any good marine paint and most automotive urethanes would be better products... and you can buy good automotive urethane enamel starting around $35. a gallon... And, they are designed to be RV resistant. Things with fancy names, like ArmEpoxy, usually give me some doubts anyway. Just my thoughts on the subject.

Thanks for the input. The Interlux apparently comes from Canada, are there are shipping/handling problems you know of or just the usual stuff?

Arne wrote:Steve, how many quarts do you think it would take to do a tear... and I assume it would take 2 coats?

I would guess a 5 X 9 would take 2 qts primer and about 1 1/2 qts Brightside.

Sierrajack wrote:Thanks for the input. The Interlux apparently comes from Canada, are there are shipping/handling problems you know of or just the usual stuff?

Interlux is sold widely throughout the USA at marine stores, and can be shipped UPS. It is about $30 or so a quart.

Steve, would it take 2 coats to cover well?

Arne wrote:Steve, would it take 2 coats to cover well?

Arne,

On the primer, it would take as many coats as it takes to fill imperfections in the surface being painted, or to a level that is acceptable to the painter. I guess you were referring to the top coat when asking how many coats, and that would depend on the color you use. I have used white primer with only one coat of Britesides. On the other hand, I've used as many as three coats on a dark blue to get the desired results. BTW subsequent coats don't seem to use as much paint either. Just my experience. Guess we hijacked the Armorpoxy thread. Sorry.

Hey, I certainly don't mind if you "hijacked" the Armorpoxy thread - no problem. I guess if I throw out a question or proposal that I'll get a good educated answer from those in the know. I've picked up some very good info here and I can't knock experience. So thanks for your input, I now know what products to use. This is my first TD build and I want to do it right - now if you were building a stock car - hey, I got the answers.

Jack,

You have to be careful where you get your "experienced" answers from. I brush painted a '54 chevy pickup one time.

Steve_Cox wrote:Jack,

You have to be careful where you get your "experienced" answers from. I brush painted a '54 chevy pickup one time. :lol:

Did it match the shirt in your avatar?

.

surveytech wrote:

Steve_Cox wrote:Jack,

You have to be careful where you get your "experienced" answers from. I brush painted a '54 chevy pickup one time.

Did it match the shirt in your avatar?

.

No the truck was a flat black primer. The 64 Volks bus was more like the shirt. Thanks for asking.

I am with Steve-Cox

I spent a lot of my youth sailing and my dad would only use Interlux products. I have painted my TD with Pre-kote / Brightside / Goldspar varnish.

All the Interlux twopack Polyurethanes paint and varnishes are as hard and glass.

Also UCP (undercoat clear priner) is astonishing, so hard its difficult to sand back.

In the UK "International Paints" is the more common name.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/
Has lots of info and good practice ideas.

Clive

Steve_Cox wrote:Here's a paint system that some of the tear drop builders have used over epoxy.

Hi Steve,

I appreciate the info on the Interlox. I have a question about the Epoxy. Is that applied for creating a smooth surface before priming? Or is it simply for waterproofing?

As an old house painter I would be inclined to put two coats of high quality primer sanding between coats for a smooth surface. So I'm just curious about the need for epoxy.

Thanks in advance for your input.

Paul