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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:05 pm
by Arne
Thanks to Paul from AU, I have contacted a Canadian company. They will be sending me a price for the centaflex hinge.... Hope it's not TOO expensive... he knew exactly where I wanted to use it and was familiar with tear drop trailers..... what a find..

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:24 pm
by Classic Finn
So its 3 to 5 people trying out that New Hinge then is it? Im doing the same trial on the little different Hinge here. .. The Rep came over and checked things out and said it should work just Finntastic...on my tear.. He was also interested to come and see what exactly a tear looks like...

He stated that if it didnt work he,d give money back... 8) 8) So cant beat that offer.. so must try it... odd as it seems to others... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Curiosity moves me... :D :D

Classic Finn ;) ;)

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:42 pm
by Geron
I went ahead and did it and here's what it looks like on a door
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Coulda put the cabin side inside the door frame and hid it. This was easier.

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Close up with al over the hinge. I may try a scrape piece to see how much it dimples. It may do fine w/o the al over the hinge.

Yeah, I got a door done today.

g

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 8:18 pm
by madjack
G, we tried some without the al and thought...hmmmmmmm, maybe BUT...and then went with the al pieces.....
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 8:40 pm
by Geron
madjack wrote:G, we tried some without the al and thought...hmmmmmmm, maybe BUT...and then went with the al pieces.....
madjack 8)


Thanks,
no need repeating history. AL it is.

g

Experience is a dear teacher but Fools will learn no other way

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:39 pm
by madjack
...actually, we tried screws every 2 inches...with and with out trim washers and there was still a minor amount of pucker...it looked really good with the trim washers but we didn't want to deal with any sealing problems the pucker might cause...plus the screws w/wo the washers wanted to "cut" into the plastic...the al eliminated those problems......
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 2:30 am
by PaulC
One of the ways to minimise the puckering you talk about is to fit angle on the edges that you screw into.
This requires the space to be a little bigger to allow for it and the hinge but it does stop crimping happening.

Cheers
Paul :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 4:37 am
by Geron
PaulC wrote:One of the ways to minimise the puckering you talk about is to fit angle on the edges that you screw into.
This requires the space to be a little bigger to allow for it and the hinge but it does stop crimping happening.

Cheers
Paul :thumbsup:


I see, put the aluminum under rather that OVER the plastit. Of course that would require sealing under the aluminum and between the al and hinge - no problem.

g

Messed up my purty TD!

PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 8:35 am
by Geron
It turned spotted. I hate painting that purty wood. Next time I'm gonna think it through. I coulda used pocket screws. Oh well, paint it is.

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Lookit them flames in the wood I'm gonna have to paint over :cry:

Couple pointers on the Plastic hinge.

Use 1/8 bar Al. the 1/16 will DIMPLE!! Ask me how I know.

With the Plastic hinge the 3/8 in cut out for the hatch (for using the hurricane hinge) is too much. Think you could get by with 1/4 in cutout. I'm gonna have to epoxy a strip in place on the cutout or get really wide weather stripping. I think a 1/8" strip topped with 1/16" al angle would just do the trick.

Yeah, that 1/8" ply broke on the right bottom of the hatch. Gonna have to cut it all off or "Filet" the broken part with glass.

PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:04 am
by apratt
Looking good Geron. Yea it is a shame to paint over that pretty wood.

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 4:34 pm
by Gringo Loco
How is this type still working out for everyone? I hadn't seen it and am thinking of using it for my doors and hatch, and maybe on the a/c hatch I think I am gonna add.

Thanx

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 4:45 pm
by Mary K
Gringo Loco wrote:of hinge Is this type still working out for everyone? I hadn't seen it and am thinking of using it for my doors and hatch, and maybe on the a/c hatch I think I am gonna add.

Thanx


I just installed mine, but Steve Cox has had his for a year or 2 and is working fine for him.

I love it and it was easy to install. But one really needs a table saw to make the rabbet joint. Like this....
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I have just used it on my hatch, and will redo my tongue Box hinge with it. I figured it would always keep the side doors closed so I opted for a Bullet hinge design on my doors. I want the doors to have the option to stay open. But that is just my crazy thinking.

Mk :wacky

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 5:38 pm
by goldcoop
Gringo Loco wrote:of hinge Is this type still working out for everyone? I hadn't seen it and am thinking of using it for my doors and hatch, and maybe on the a/c hatch I think I am gonna add.

Thanx


2 1/2 years constant exposure & lots of use!

Still lovin' it!

Cheers,

Coop

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 7:06 pm
by Geron
The are rated at 100,000 flexes.

Figure I'll be "a-mouldering" in the grave by the time that comes around.

;)

Used them on hatch and door. Since mine wasn't a woody as such I used Al to hold them in place and keep them from dimpling, puckering -- whatever.

g

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 8:05 pm
by goldcoop
Geron wrote: dimpling, puckering -- whatever.g


Geron-

Mutha Puckers :lol:

Cheers,

Coop