Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Sonetpro's pics show what Danny wants Heikki to consider~



Here is a thread where locks are talked about~

Picture Ideas to consider~
Slamming Rod Locks
More locks and latches

Handles
Rod locks
More hardware

UK supplier of hardware
slam Lock suppliers in the UK = many

I knew I could count on you Mr. Steve. I was thinking of this kind it's the KISS that I'm after. Danny

Steve and Danny thanks..

I took some inside photos of the interior to show what I have.





Kiss is the way to go..

Classic Finn

halfdome, Danny wrote:I knew I could count on you Mr. Steve. I was thinking of this kind it's the KISS that I'm after. Danny

Danny is that the one that fits the T - Handle to it?

Heikki

Heikki, I used a locking bar mechanism & T-handle from an old P/U camper shell that I had. It wasn't being used so I scavenged it. Had to shorten the rods by about 1.5" each & that was actually the biggest problem I had. Those rods are 'hardened' & were a real b!tch to cut, especially with only a manually operated hacksaw . After installing the T-handle & locking rods I turned the handle to retract the rods to 'open' position, marked the rods for correct length, took them off the T-handle & cut them while they were being held in a sturdy vise. Dressed the ends lightly with a file so they'd easier slide into the locking receptacle. After reinstalling the rods I smeared the very end of each with lipstick, closed the hatch & while holding the hatch down tightly, I turned the T-handle as if locking/latching the hatch, then turned the handle back to retract the rods. The lipstick left a very visible mark on the inside walls of the galley where the locking receptacle needed to be. I then simply drilled the appropriate sized hole to correct depth. I had enough room to then attach a large steel washer (with 3 screws countersunk) to reinforce each hole that receives the locking rods (I'd planned for this ahead of time so the galley walls at these points are solid wood all the wa thru to the aluminum skin). When my hatch is closed the rods extend almost an inch into the receptacle on either side of the galley. It was a simple, relatively easy install, well within Danny's K.I.S.S. parameters Here's a few pix -

T-handle in closed postion


Inside view of locking device


Close-up of T-handle/rod connection w/rods in locked position


Locking rod receptacle


Showing how much of the rod actually extends into receptacle

Nobody wrote:Heikki, I used a locking bar mechanism & T-handle from an old P/U camper shell that I had. It wasn't being used so I scavenged it. Had to shorten the rods by about 1.5" each & that was actually the biggest problem I had. Those rods are 'hardened' & were a real b!tch to cut, especially with only a manually operated hacksaw . After installing the T-handle & locking rods I turned the handle to retract the rods to 'open' position, marked the rods for correct length, took them off the T-handle & cut them while they were being held in a sturdy vise. Dressed the ends lightly with a file so they'd easier slide into the locking receptacle. After reinstalling the rods I smeared the very end of each with lipstick, closed the hatch & while holding the hatch down tightly, I turned the T-handle as if locking/latching the hatch, then turned the handle back to retract the rods. The lipstick left a very visible mark on the inside walls of the galley where the locking receptacle needed to be. I then simply drilled the appropriate sized hole to correct depth. I had enough room to then attach a large steel washer (with 3 screws countersunk) to reinforce each hole that receives the locking rods (I'd planned for this ahead of time so the galley walls at these points are solid wood all the wa thru to the aluminum skin). When my hatch is closed the rods extend almost an inch into the receptacle on either side of the galley. It was a simple, relatively easy install, well within Danny's K.I.S.S. parameters Here's a few pix -

T-handle in closed postion


Inside view of locking device


Close-up of T-handle/rod connection w/rods in locked position


Locking rod receptacle


Showing how much of the rod actually extends into receptacle

Hi Harvey

Thats about the exact system Im going to have to go with due to the radius on my hatch..

Today I went hunting all over and called a few places and came up empty handed..

I am looking over in England yet at a place that has been recommended by Andrew for other trailer parts named Indespension..

I saw one someplace there in the States but I cant remember where. It was somthing like Danny shows in his pic.

Thats about the only way I can think of to do it on my set up thus far.

I looked at an option.. going thru the sides. that way it may work but it really would look out of place..with the T - Handle and latches - one on each side..

Was it Ebay or somewhere...

Thanks again Harvey.

Best regards
Heikki

Hey folks ...

Is this it?

http://www.indespension.com/b2c/app/I00 ... 054&slnk=1

http://www.indespension.com/b2c/app/I00 ... 055&slnk=1

Classic Finn

Danny,
This Norwegian scoffed at all the prefabbed stuff for camper shells that he came across and decided to build something which would be concealed insde the cavity from odds and ends...


Looking from inside the galley...
Grant's T-handle, 4-small ball joint assemblies, 2-lengths of 3/8" rod, 6-bronze bushing bearings, 4- shaft collars and two scraps of flat bar.


I'm going to add two more shaft collars and attach small coil springs to them to keep the mechanism sprung in the unlocked position to keep from accidently closing hatch with the rods sticking out.


I'll be adding a removable maple access panel on the interior side of the hatch and a roller bearing will be mounted in the panel which the tail end of the t-handle will fit into to keep the square stock on the t-handle from flopping around...

Dean in Eureka, CA wrote:Danny,
This Norwegian scoffed at all the prefabbed stuff for camper shells that he came across and decided to build something which would be concealed insde the cavity from odds and ends...


Looking from inside the galley...
Grant's T-handle, 4-small ball joint assemblies, 2-lengths of 3/8" rod, 6-bronze bushing bearings, 4- shaft collars and two scraps of flat bar.


I'm going to add two more shaft collars and attach small coil springs to them to keep the mechanism sprung in the unlocked position to keep from accidently closing hatch with the rods sticking out.


I'll be adding a removable maple access panel on the interior side of the hatch and a roller bearing will be mounted in the panel which the tail end of the t-handle will fit into to keep the square stock on the t-handle from flopping around...

Deanster the Norveegian

I have 2 latches from the Great Grant.. with the T - Handles..
Will they work on this Norveegian System? Is that a start?

Also I have the hatch skinned but I can get to it yet from the inside as my pics show..





This evening I found 2 different types over in England but almost at 100 USD plus shipping...but no import duty.





Classic Finn

halfdome, Danny wrote:I knew I could count on you Mr. Steve. I was thinking of this kind it's the KISS that I'm after. Danny

Danny I think I found one of them at Austin Hardware... maybe you can see which is the correct model for my use.

http://www.austinhardware.com/dept.asp?dept%5Fid=3

Heikki

halfdome, Danny wrote:Heikki, I think any of those in the last 3 posts will work including the ones you found. Now is anything like that available in your area? If you can't find one I can, and will send to you per our agreement. I hope this thread is helping shed some light on your hatch locking quest. I wondering how tight the ends of a hatch would be from water penetration. Would an outside latch be required to pull down on the weather stripping like most TD'rs do? Would the arms with the hatch latch in the picture Steve showed pull it tighter and not require outside latches? Danny

Danny I,ll give England a call tomorrow at Indespension if they are open.. if not I,ll get on it on Monday.. I know here I havent run across any unless I dont know the exact name for them..

The outside type corner locks with key are available here that I know.
So that could help also..

Im having a small router cut on the bottom of my hatch done to place the rubber seal into.. I may do 2 of them - one on the bottom and top of the hatch.. meaning lower section that rests on the frame end.. that way it should seal nicely..

I,ll keep you posted Danny..

Best regards
Heikki

halfdome, Danny wrote:Heikki, I think any of those in the last 3 posts will work including the ones you found. Now is anything like that available in your area? If you can't find one I can, and will send to you per our agreement. I hope this thread is helping shed some light on your hatch locking quest. I wondering how tight the ends of a hatch would be from water penetration. Would an outside latch be required to pull down on the weather stripping like most TD'rs do? Would the arms with the hatch latch in the picture Steve showed pull it tighter and not require outside latches? Danny

Maybe someone can chime in on the outside locks to draw the hatch tighter? and requirement. Im having a lip done on the outside of hatch bottom as well so it will help keep water out..

Heikki

Classic Finn wrote:Maybe someone can chime in on the outside locks to draw the hatch tighter? and requirement. Im having a lip done on the outside of hatch bottom as well so it will help keep water out..Heikki

Heikki-

Yes it will draw the hatch tighter, IF you position the female receptacle for the rods BEFORE adding the weatherstripping.

That means you will probably push in slightly while turning the T handle to latch.

Make sense?:roll:

Cheers,

Coop