Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

Postby DougGirling » Wed Oct 10, 2007 3:22 pm

I thought I'd share a schematic of the various methods I've encountered on this forum for attaching walls to the teardrop. They're all shown as exploded subassemblies (floor/frame and wall). The floor/frame is drawn with the representative floor of 1/2" ply over 1"x?" lumber on top of the frame (insulation and tar omitted for clarity), as used in the Generic Benroy. The different configurations are shown with the solid or sandwich walls used in the original postings. With suitable handwaving, one can substitute solid or sandwich walls to taste.

Thanks to all of you who have shared your ideas on this forum - it's a great resource!

Image
DougGirling
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 18
Images: 2
Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2006 2:39 pm
Location: Bellevue, WA

Postby Classic Finn » Wed Oct 10, 2007 5:01 pm

Greetings there DougGirling

Thanks for posting that... it can help many of the newbies and oldies alike.. Informative for sure..

Thanks for putting that up.. :thumbsup:

Classic Finn ;)
Royal Teardrop Society Scandinavian Bureau Chief of Staff

Image
User avatar
Classic Finn
Midnight Sun Voyager
Midnight Sun Voyager
 
Posts: 17488
Images: 146
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 4:29 am
Location: Country of Finland

Postby Esteban » Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:44 pm

Your illustrations are very helpful.

I think on the Dado Joint (Frederick) the lower inside skin, the one below the dado next to the frame, is eliminated. Also you'd screw through the floor at an angle to attach the sides...not through the inside plywood skin. The beauty of his method, especially for a woodie, is that the inside and outside walls can be pre-finished and no screws are visible when it's done.
Steve - SLO, CA
Esteban
Donating Member
 
Posts: 1444
Images: 15
Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 4:39 pm
Location: California, San Luis Obispo
Top

Postby DougGirling » Fri Oct 19, 2007 3:55 pm

Steve,

You're correct. (Goes to show one shouldn't post just before going to bed.) I've updated the drawing below.

Image

Doug
DougGirling
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 18
Images: 2
Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2006 2:39 pm
Location: Bellevue, WA
Top

Postby jimqpublic » Mon Oct 29, 2007 11:09 am

Several builders have screwed right through the sidewall into plywood floor endgrain. 5/8" or 3/4" plywood sides should be able to handle 3/16" dado to strengthen this up a lot.

If you don't fully frame the floor but still want the sidewalls to hang below the frame using metal angle inside seems a good solution, especially with a good adhesive and plenty of screws. (MadJack?)

I appreciate the teardrop builders all going for stout construction, but the mainstream RV industry gets by with a lot less. Their big boxes are subjected to a lot more stress and strain than a teardrop and don't fail structurally that often.
Jim
2002 Chalet Arrowhead but always wanted a Teardrop
2 kids and a Dear Wife
http://community.webshots.com/user/jimqpublic
User avatar
jimqpublic
The 300 Club
 
Posts: 398
Images: 2
Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2004 12:41 pm
Location: Long Beach, CA
Top

Postby WarPony » Sat Aug 02, 2008 11:59 pm

Here is how we did our Widget "wall-to-floor" attachment. It's kind of a cross between an internal cleat and a rabbet joint but I threw in a biscuit to help out. In my mind, I figure all the surface area will make for a stronger joint ............

Image

Image

Jeff
ImageImage

Still a million dollars away from being a millionaire!!
User avatar
WarPony
Donating Member
 
Posts: 2088
Images: 289
Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2004 12:10 pm
Location: Kansas, Topeka
Top

wall to floor joint

Postby cappy208 » Mon Sep 21, 2009 7:28 pm

That is an awesome graphic!
Why have I not seen the joint simply the performed with the outside skin, outside plywood, 3/4" frames, and interior skin all together as a unit, and screw through all four to the frame?
I know weight when in production would be an issue, but a sandwich construction would seem to be much easier, and you would gain the extra 2 1/2" on the inside availability of space.
User avatar
cappy208
Teardrop Builder
 
Posts: 36
Images: 1
Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 6:16 pm
Location: Cape Cod Ma.
Top

Postby Carter » Mon Sep 21, 2009 8:16 pm

How about one if you use a 2x2 angle frame with a 2x2 (1 1/2 x 1 1/2) frame and ply deck dropped in it. side walls to the outside of the frame.

Jim

Image
I need a new Avatar. I'd put my dog up there but she doesn't look much like me. She's the skinny one.
User avatar
Carter
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 319
Images: 32
Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2008 6:45 am
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Top

Postby Grid Runner Adventures » Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:19 pm

what methods for attaching walls are you guys using for 6ft wide campers when the trailer itself is 4ft wide
www.offgridrving.com
Follow my build of a off grid camper that is 6x8 and I will live in it for an entire year!
Google Is My College
User avatar
Grid Runner Adventures
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 273
Images: 4
Joined: Sun Feb 28, 2010 6:15 pm
Location: southern wisconsin
Top

Postby Hikerjohnd » Sun Sep 26, 2010 4:43 pm

What about using pocket screws to attach the walls?
---------------
--John

So be it.
User avatar
Hikerjohnd
Teardrop Advisor
 
Posts: 65
Images: 88
Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2010 9:57 pm
Location: Savannah, GA
Top

Postby cracker39 » Sat Oct 16, 2010 4:48 pm

I just ran across this sticky and thought I'd put in my dos centavos. On the Squidget, I used a method similar to the simple cleat above. Except that I attached the cleat to the wall, not the floor. When the wall was set on the floor, the side came down beside the floor edge and the cleat sat on the floor where it was attached to the floor with glue and screws.

On the PT, I plan to add another "cleat". Only, I call these 3/4" x 1" high cleats connector strips. One will be attached to the full length of the wall, 1 3/4" from the bottom edge of the plywood skin. The other will be attached to the floor with glue and screws put in from the bottom up into the connector strip before the floor is attached to the chassis (left figure). When the side is set in place, the two strips are joined with screws and glue. The side skin is attached with glue and screws to both the floor connector strip and to the floor itself (right figure). The Squidget cabin was secure with just one strip. The PT will have more holding power to keep the walls attached to the floor. Pocket screws could be used to jon the two strips, but only after the side skin is screwed to the floor connector strip.

Image
Dale

Sometimes I pretend to be normal. But, that gets boring...so I go back to being me.

Squidget Pop Top Build Pages http://www.thesquidget.com/ptbuild/ptbuild.html

Squidget and Pop Top Plans Info and Photos: http://www.TheSquidget.com
User avatar
cracker39
3000 Club
3000 Club
 
Posts: 3069
Images: 233
Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2005 2:18 pm
Location: Lake Alfred, Florida, USA
Top

Postby eaglesdare » Sat Nov 06, 2010 12:00 pm

Grid Runner Adventures wrote:what methods for attaching walls are you guys using for 6ft wide campers when the trailer itself is 4ft wide


any illustrations for this?
Louella
May the foam be with you.
User avatar
eaglesdare
Donating Member
 
Posts: 3145
Images: 13
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:06 pm
Top

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

Postby lancew » Fri Apr 06, 2012 5:25 pm

just curious as to why the walls are not applied such as a home or a RV ? bottom plate and top plate ?

i soon hope to building my first teardrop. Benroy model. HOPEFULLY !!!?
User avatar
lancew
Teardrop Advisor
 
Posts: 92
Joined: Fri Mar 30, 2012 3:29 pm
Top

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

Postby Corwin C » Fri Apr 06, 2012 10:35 pm

lancew wrote:just curious as to why the walls are not applied such as a home or a RV ? bottom plate and top plate ?

i soon hope to building my first teardrop. Benroy model. HOPEFULLY !!!?


There are many ways to do this ... top and bottom plates are a definite option.
Corwin
Image Image Image
If I am unwilling to stand up straight before the world and admit what I have accomplished during the day, without excuses, in complete and honest detail, then I can do better ...
and no one should be expected to accept anything less.
-- myself
User avatar
Corwin C
500 Club
 
Posts: 916
Images: 78
Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 10:27 am
Location: Junction, Piute County, UT
Top

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

Postby markhusbands » Tue Jul 03, 2012 7:13 pm

Is there an accepted method to get a little more width out of a typical HF 4x8 by extending the floor a little beyond the frame and setting the walls on top of that? It seems like you could get away with a few inches on each side, especially if you made a sandwiched floor. I have a design in mind with width a bit closer to 55-60", an elevated bed platform over partial wheel wells and then a narrow fender flare instead of a full exterior fender.
133923
User avatar
markhusbands
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 285
Images: 58
Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 3:17 pm
Location: Denver, Colorado, USA
Top

Next

Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests