DougGirling wrote:I thought I'd share a schematic of the various methods I've encountered on this forum for attaching walls to the teardrop. They're all shown as exploded subassemblies (floor/frame and wall). The floor/frame is drawn with the representative floor of 1/2" ply over 1"x?" lumber on top of the frame (insulation and tar omitted for clarity), as used in the Generic Benroy. The different configurations are shown with the solid or sandwich walls used in the original postings. With suitable handwaving, one can substitute solid or sandwich walls to taste.
Thanks to all of you who have shared your ideas on this forum - it's a great resource!
greaper007 wrote:Thanks Steve, so it's just like residential framing where everything is built on the sill plate.
Esteban wrote:I bolted the floor to the trailer frame. The walls were then glued and screwed to the floor.
DoctahDeane wrote:Picking up on Greywolf's post I have the same question: for the part that hangs below the platform to cover up the trailer frame, how is that sealed - before, after, etc? Seems like it would be a pain in the rear to lie on one's back to fiberglass the space between the frame and the skin after the fact (if you could even do so)?
kayakdlk wrote:I used a tube of DAP Dynaflex 230 50 year black caulk and ran a double bead down the side of the frame (1 up top and one toward the bottom of my 2x2) before putting the walls on. After the walls were up I filled any gaps with caulk along the bottom (Note: I had fiberglassed and epoxied my side walls while they were flat on a table). That way no water will get in between the wall and frame. I also ran a bead of the same caulk on the top of my frame before mounting the floor. That stopped all squeaks when I sat down on the floor. I decided on the caulk as it would squish out and fill any imperfections and make a better seal than a gasket
Also a tube of caulk is less than $10
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