Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

April 2005 Fine Wood Working magazine offers a section called
Choosing the right glue.

Ron, what did they list under "Best glue for tear drop trailers"?..<g>..

Actually, I would be interested to know what glues the woodworkers here consider the best to use in different areas of a tear. For instance, gluing different skins (aluminum, frp, etc) to sealed plywood, joints where framework meet, laminations like subtearanean made his profile, attaching framework to plywood sides and roof, gluing foam insulation, and any other place I'm overlooking.

I just discovered E6000 glue for general household stuff and I'm really impressed. I'm sure technology has created some great glues that some of you like.

George,
I think a little common sense and matter of preference will do just fine.
Example; I know a lot of guys swear by Gorilla Glue...Myself, I don't care for it's expanding foaming action. I like plastic resin glue for wood to wood connections. Although it's not a waterproof glue, it is a water resistant glue. If I want an absolute water proof glue I use West thickened epoxy; #105 resin, #206 slow hardener with wood dust as my thickener.
I use a lot of good ol' Elmer's yellow carpenter's glue also.
Recently, I've been trying out Titebond 3 and it seems to work good for my needs.
As fo gluing your metal skins down... I recommend just sealing your wood and dry setting your metal skins. Some have gotten away with gluing the sides without having them pop loose, but I don't know of anyone who has successfully glued down a roof skin and hasn't had it pop loose, because of the expansion and contraction.
There is a caulking that comes to mind that has tenacious adhesion properties that might work, it's called Mono, but I think I'll go with the flow and dry set my skins.

Another caulk that will stick and hold almost anything (except plexiglass and lexan) is 3M 5200...
As far as glue goes, I agree with Dean. Read labels, try some, find what you like.
Anyone know, is Resorcinol still made? Haven't seen it but haven't looked either.

Has been used on boats and exterior projects with tremendous success. Very easy to use and relatively inexpensive.

the PL Polyurethane stuff listed above works well, but heed the warning on the lable and wear gloves - this stuff does not come off your hands easily with any type of solution - I learned the hard way

exminnesotaboy wrote:the PL Polyurethane stuff listed above works well, but heed the warning on the lable and wear gloves - this stuff does not come off your hands easily with any type of solution - I learned the hard way

Yeah I had people who didn't want to shake my hand the Sunday after I worked with the stuff. Wanted to know what was wrong with them. From then on Mechanix Gloves

I do like it though - as well as the DL Polyurethane Caulk.

g

exminnesotaboy wrote:the PL Polyurethane stuff listed above works well, but heed the warning on the lable and wear gloves - this stuff does not come off your hands easily with any type of solution - I learned the hard way

Also, head the warning and use with adequate ventilation. Go a head, ask me how I know.

PL sounds cool.

I use Liquid Nails, Heavy-duty Professional. It hasn't dis-appointed me yet. Good stuff.

DestinDave, Yes, they still make Resorcinol. I get mine at the "professional" hardware store in town. Check around for the harsware supply in your town that the pros go to for the hard-to-find stuff and they will probably have it. You can also order it over the web.

I still use both Resorcinol and 3M 5200 for boat projects. I have two prams that have sat outside winter and summer for years with no sign of glue failure. I did use lots of TiteBond on my trailer and 5200 on "working" joins.