Page 3 of 3

PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 4:12 am
by bobhenry
Kenny :( That's it ! That's all I get
:(
I expected the full engineering analysis. Non slip foot , click and slip adjustment , padded shelf rest which is also non slip , handy carrying handle in the middle and ultra light aluminum design.

Hell I thought it was brilliant and if I meet a "little person" on the trail with a turned ankle I can loan it out. :lol: :lol: :lol:

PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 11:20 pm
by kennyrayandersen
Easy now. Here is the engineering (practical) prospective. I've seen some pretty fat bastardes using those (Myself included! :lol: ). So, we have a special category called GBI -- Good By Inspection -- no numbers needed on that one! :thumbsup:

We also have NDG -- No Darn Good (or the other version, which I'll let you extrapolate!)

PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 4:45 am
by bobhenry
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 7:40 am
by Barry J
with the round edge up won't water get behind the bracket?

PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 5:24 pm
by kennyrayandersen
Barry J wrote:with the round edge up won't water get behind the bracket?

Yes, but it will run off the front or back while stationary and especially the back while going down the road. Even when the flat is up water will still get behind the extrusion. I would probably wet-install it [with some kind of sealant] either way.

PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 8:32 am
by Nobody
Barry J wrote:with the round edge up won't water get behind the bracket?


If you've got a wood wall, water behind the rail might be a problem (guess it'll depend on your finish). On my aluminum sided TD I just followed Madjack's practice & after initial installation I simply removed the screws (one at a time) & placed a 'dab' of sealant (Sika-flex[?]) in each screw hole then reset the screws. It ain't leaked yet 8)

PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 10:41 am
by aggie79
I guess you use a spacers, maybe nylon washers, at the screw locations to create a space between the bracket and the sidewall of the teardrop so it will drain. This is similar to what you do to attach a ledger board to a house for a wood deck.

PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 11:14 pm
by kennyrayandersen
aggie79 wrote:I guess you use a spacers, maybe nylon washers, at the screw locations to create a space between the bracket and the sidewall of the teardrop so it will drain. This is similar to what you do to attach a ledger board to a house for a wood deck.


Personally, if you install with a sealant like Sikaflex you should be fine. Not that I think it's necessarily a problem, but the washers could, unless they're big'uns decrease your foot print a bit. I don't think if I has a woody I would install a aluminum extrusion in the side -- somehow that might throw off the overall effect!

Re: Side Mount table question

PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 12:05 pm
by MontanaTeardrops
I would like to put a table like that on my Teardrop also. Do they have those brackets at Home Depot?

Re: Side Mount table question

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 11:28 am
by godskid
MontanaTeardrops wrote:I would like to put a table like that on my Teardrop also. Do they have those brackets at Home Depot?

No, this is a specialty sort of item. There is a link in one of the posts on page two -- two of us bought this bracket at dyersonline.com That was a few years ago, but they probably still have it.

Re: Side Mount table question

PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 6:23 pm
by MontanaTeardrops
This is how I mounted mine.

Image

Re: Side Mount table question

PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 7:20 pm
by working on it
Here's a link to alternative table ideas: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=56156&hilit=side+table