Floor Thickness

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

glue

Postby David Beckett » Thu Apr 14, 2005 3:06 pm

I used a spray glue but only to keep it in place temporarily. Most of my insulation is covered on both sides by Luan. The base is insulated but it is jammed in so good that I doubt it comes loose.
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Postby rjhager » Thu Apr 14, 2005 3:09 pm

Toypusher,

IMHO that would be either polyurethane (Gorilla, etc.) or an epoxy. Just have to be careful you don't use one that will "eat" the foam. Heck, even aliphatic resin (carpenter's glue) works well -- just make sure it's "Type II."
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Postby toypusher » Thu Apr 14, 2005 3:13 pm

I was really wondering about the "eating the foam" issue. I guess I could just try gorilla glue and some others to see what happens on a test peice.
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Postby rjhager » Thu Apr 14, 2005 3:20 pm

I use polyurethane all the time in building R/C airplane wings. It does *not* attack foam. Some spray-on adhesives will attack (dissolve) and I hear the new formula 3M77 spray will. Check the can -- if one of the first ingredients is acetone it will attack the foam.
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Postby toypusher » Thu Apr 14, 2005 3:24 pm

rjhager

Thanks, I will try some experiments and see what I can come up with. I would love to try doing the sidewalls this way with maybe 1/4" plywood and 3/4" insulation. From all that I have heard, it should be plenty strong.

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Postby asianflava » Thu Apr 14, 2005 3:52 pm

denverd0n wrote:
asianflava wrote:I have a sandwich floor, made from 1X2 sticks and 1/8" birch ply (both sides) and rigid insulation.


1/8"!!??!! Wow! I'm amazed that a floor that thin can support a person, even if it is sandwich construction. I guess I won't have to worry at all about using 1/2". Now you've got me wondering if I can get away with 1/4" on both sides.

My overall philosophy on the whole teardrop can be summed up as, "as strong as it needs to be, as light as it can be."


I was originally going to use 1/4" faces but was talked out of it by the folks on this board. The sandwich walls are extremely rigid and light. My floor has 4 "studs" one 12" from the each wall, one in the middle and one where the plywood seam is. The whole panel weighs 71lbs and is 60X120.

Rolling the epoxy out, prior to laying down the faces:
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Postby mikeschn » Thu Apr 14, 2005 4:03 pm

Asian...

What kind of foam is that and what kind of epoxy are you using?

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Postby SteveH » Thu Apr 14, 2005 4:17 pm

Reference floor thickness, I saw an original Kit teardrop trailer yesterday (the first one I'd actually seen in person, and it was really cool), anyway, the floor and the side walls are 1/2" plywood, period.

Of course, the walls are covered with aluminum.

The frame is built from 2" channel, with one cross brace, and 1 1/2" V pipe tongue.

We are REALLY overbuilding these things. :o
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Postby mikeschn » Thu Apr 14, 2005 4:21 pm

SteveH,

What are you suggesting? 1" SIPs with 3/4" foam and 1/8" plywood on each side for the floors and walls, with a chassis consisting of a 2x2 tongue only? :frightened:

Okay, maybe I went a little overboard.... so what do you think we should be building?

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Postby SteveH » Thu Apr 14, 2005 4:54 pm

Mike,

I'm not saying what we should be building, I'm saying reference the originals, we are overbuilding them today. :)
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Postby mikeschn » Thu Apr 14, 2005 5:06 pm

Yea, yea yea... I heard that the first time SteveH... What I was really after was your opinion!!!

No one is going to grill you if they disagree. I think it's a good thing to talk about.

I personally think that 1/4" baltic birch SIPS would be cool. But not everyone wants to dish out for the baltic birch...
:(

And if I was stretching it I would do a 1/4" BB floor, and a 1/8" BB wall. That's seems to be about as light as you can get...

Now factor in price... HD has 1/4" birch plywood for the same price as luan once in a while. Now I can build a strong teardrop that looks good too, for really cheap.

And the cost of Epoxy? Heck, I don't know... ask Steve Frederick... Hey Chip, got any more pickle juice?

:lol:

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P.S. Hey Steve H, would you throw another log on the fire... !!! ;)
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Postby SteveH » Thu Apr 14, 2005 5:42 pm

Mike,

I guess one of the things that comes to mind is my current frame, built out of 2" X 1/4" angle. Quite a few folks doubted the structural strength of it, and reference the original, it's STOUT. Maybe not a stout as 2" sq tubing, but I'm convinced it's more than enough. Just an example. :)
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Postby mikeschn » Thu Apr 14, 2005 5:46 pm

Of course 1/4" is strong enough. ..

I have an engineer certified set of plans for a utility trailer built out of 3/16" angle that is strong enough. And that's without a box on top. The box adds significantly to the strength...

So what were your thoughts on the floor or the walls? Anything?

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Postby asianflava » Thu Apr 14, 2005 6:15 pm

mikeschn wrote:Asian...

What kind of foam is that and what kind of epoxy are you using?

Mike...


I don't remember the type of foam but it is yellowish with kraft paper facing, one of which is silver. It is pretty stiff stuff, does not compress very easily. I used West Systems Epoxy rolled on then I used a notched trowel and spread more epoxy thickened with microfibers.
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Postby DestinDave » Thu Apr 14, 2005 7:10 pm

Liquid Nails has an adhesive specifically for rigid foam insulation. I've been told many other adhesives will melt the foam. The Liquid Nails is avavilable at HD, Lowes, etc...
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