Mounting floor to trailer.....

[The R/C Man]

Hey everyone!

Here is an idea that I would like to run by you. The pic shows a side view of how I would like to mount the floor to the frame. The floor will be constructed using Gorilla glue and the walls will be screwed to the sides of the floor as well as through the frame of the walls into the floors 2x4's. This should keep the top sheet of plywood from going anywhere. The bolts will go in from the bottom and stay in place using lock washers and some lock tite compound. I would like the camper to be removable from the trailer just in case.. I hope I explained that ok. Let me know what you think.

[IraRat]

Hey, RC. Are you referencing any TD plans yet? You sure seem to know what you're doing, but I just wanted to point out that a lot of TD plans don't use a bottom sheet for the floor. Just insulation coated with asphalt fiber "stuff."

If that second sheet is PERMANENTLY installed to your trailer, that's a different story.

[mikeschn]

Hey Greg,

The concept looks fine. Just drill all your pilot holes in the frame first, and in the wood second, before drilling your counterbore for the t-nut.

And I ditto what Rat said about the bottom plywood! It's not necessary.

Mike...

[IraRat]

One more thing:

The Cubby only requires 2 by 2 framing, not 2 by 4--so if you're doing a 4 X 8 TD, that's something to consider for your removeable, because of the lighter weight with 2 by 2s.

[TomS]

I agree with Ira. 2x4 framing for the floor is probably overkill.

I did something simlar with my floor. I counterbored each bolt mounting hole with a Forstner bit. After the floor was bolted down to the trailer frame, I filled each hole with wood filler.

If you go here
http://www.tomswenson.com/teardrop/floor/index.shtml and click through to slides 5 and 6, you'll see what I 'm talking about.

My purpose here was to keep the bolt heads from protruding above the floor. I don't know if the wood filler would hold the bolt heads still while I backed off the nylox nuts. But, I'm sure epoxy mixed with some kind of filler material would hold those bolt heads good and still.

[samstoybox]

One more thing I always do with T-nuts is to make sure I can't accidentally push them out with the bolt I'm trying to thread into them. This is especially important if they will be hard to reach like the ones you've planned. I generally use two or three panhead screws:

[WoodSmith]

It may be overkill on a permanently mounted TD but I think that it might be a good idea on one that may be removed. I think that the added strength would be a good thing when you are rolling / sliding / lifting the TD off of the trailer, as well as when it is in storeage.

[mikeschn]

One more thing I always do with T-nuts is to make sure I can't accidentally push them out with the bolt I'm trying to thread into them. This is especially important if they will be hard to reach like the ones you've planned. I generally use two or three panhead screws:

I never gave that a thought before, and then one of my t-nuts on a high flying rocket broke loose at a critical time... so , yea... that's a good idea!

Mike...

[The R/C Man]

IraRat,

No I haven't refered to any plans. All the pictures on this site as well as the help from you guys on this board is more than enough to build it..
I figure the botom sheet would protect the foam from rocks add a bit more to the R value and give a little extra strength to the floor, not that it will need it. Anyway the 1/4" sheet is only $10 how much does the asphalt stuff cost? Oh, the 2x4's are only going to be full size for the edges. I plan to rip them down the middle for the center supports....

mikeschn,

Yap got the pilot hole thing.. You mentioned High power Rockets. I am building a 6" diameter by 8' tall level 3 project. It will have a central 54mm and three 38mm out boards.... I am hoping for 17,000ft

TomS,

I think I looked at your site before. I rember the cat.... I got some good ideas from there. Thanks!

samstoybox,

Awesome idea for holding the T-nuts in place! I would have used epoxy, your way is better....

[mikeschn]

IraRat,

mikeschn,

You mentioned High power Rockets. I am building a 6" diameter by 8' tall level 3 project. It will have a central 54mm and three 38mm out boards.... I am hoping for 17,000ft

Level 3 eh... I've been procrastinating on my level 2. I passed the written exam last fall, but the delay on the rocket was too short... (I was at the mercy of the lauch vendors) I plan on launching my level 2 again this summer, and then, maybe I'll have to pick your brains for my level 3.

Mike...

[asianflava]

Aww Man, I thought you got your Level 2 last year, I'm just level 0. At work, we are starting our rocket building program with the local elementary again. It's lots of fun, also gives us an excuse to play with rockets and get paid for it.

[The R/C Man]

The funny thing is I don't have my level 2 yet either. I have the rocket in the garage for it though. I should launch it within the next couple months or so. The cool thing is that I am a dealer so parts are readily available...

[IraRat]

That underside floor just isn't necessary for rock damage, because the way you're going to finish it, it will be fine.

Also, again, you probably and simply don't need to go 2 by 4 anywhere on that frame--and since you're doing a removable, this would make a big difference in the weight.

[The R/C Man]

Thanks!

I will just rip them down then...... and save a couple bucks in the process....

[ALAN GEDDES]

I' ve done both methods of construction and really think the 2x4 is overkill. The closed bottom with insulation is the better construct in my opinion. We tend to get carried away sometimes and over engineer these things. When completed that curved plywood box is super solid.