Attaching interior roof

[Finntec]

I was wondering if anone would give me a suggestion on how to attach the interior roof to the rafters? I am using 1/8 birch and 1 X 3 pine rafters. And for that matter, how about attaching the exterior 1/8 birch to the frame. Should I use some type of small screw, or glue? Thats tomorrows project. Thanks.

[Geron]

I followed Kuffel Creek. Installed the 1/8 birch - marked the rafters/spars. Then took the pressure off the ceiling and let it drop away from the spars to put a bead of polyurethane construction glue between the ceiling and spars. I pushed the ceiling back in place and used a brad nailer to hold it in place while it dried. - 16 gauge holds better than 18 gauge and staples are even better (1/4 inch crown). Staples don't pull through the 1/8 inch like the brads.

I've seen others prop up the ceiling with 2x4's wedged between ceiling and floor -- like a "dead man" to hold pressure on the ceiling while the glue dries.

I used bendable 1/8 in birch. It was so flexible I actually had trouble keeping it from flopping down. Usually it's the other way around. Trouble getting it to bend.

I'm sure there are many other "good" ways.

Geron

[norm perkiss]

As Geron mentioned,
I used the "dead man" tactic. I made a T shape out of scrap 2x4s. I cut the leg of the T to be snug against the rafter. The cross piece at the top of the T was just a couple of inches less that the width of the teardrop. This gave me fairly even pressure the entire length of the rafter.

It wasn't an all-at-once procedure. I started attaching the ceiling at the rear and worked my way to the front. The first attachment at the rear I used urethane glue and some brads. I let this cure, then proceeded to the next rafter using the "dead man" also letting this cure (just glue, no nails) before the next rafter. My thinking was that for each successive rafter there was a solid connection to work with. I used only one "dead man", moving it from one rafter to the next. I used Gorilla Glue, it foams and fills in any gap. No problems so far...
Norm

[smarttech]

Geron, I checked out your progress and I really liked how you trimmed the doors and have that little ledge for the door to fit all nice and snug. How did you accomplish that. Is the outside aluminum? Did you just bend the aluminum into the door frame?

[len19070]

Hi Ray & Debby. I use an RV corner edge. So what ever I use to hold the outside edges is only to hold them down until I install this edge, so I staple it. For the cross members, that are 5/4X2 I use PL200 glue and screw them. BTW I use either 1/8 laun or a plastic pebble board. Hope to see you at Voorhees.

Happy Trails

Len

[Geron]

Geron, I checked out your progress and I really liked how you trimmed the doors and have that little ledge for the door to fit all nice and snug. How did you accomplish that. Is the outside aluminum? Did you just bend the aluminum into the door frame?

Yes, The outside is aluminum (.040). Yes, I just bent the aluminum trim to to door frame. I ordered 1/2x1/4 T1 trim from Grant at the TD Fix it Shop. It was an absolute joy to work with. I use drive screws to keep the fastener profile low. You can use 1/2x1/2 from HD and trim one side to 1/4 to 3/8 inch and anneal. That works well also.

Then I used Grant's T moulding to trim the outside edge of the door. There is very little room for error in the fitting of the door to the opening. I'm gonna have to go back and "lick my calf" all over again. I"ll just remove the moulding and TRIM and SHIM to get the fit I want. Then replace the moulding. NEVER caulk till you got the fit you want!!!! I put the T moulding on the door with screws Somehow I knew it'd have to come off at least once but that's

Pic of the T moulding on the door.

[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=277656&c=500&z=1"][/url]

Geron