If it’s going to get used, this kind of information is invaluable.
Thanks for the vote of confidence, KennyRay.
In the epoxy/ply boat building world the "boil test" is used to check the glue.
You sound like Andrew Gibbens, an expert boat builder and well known design expert here, on this forum. His PM comments were similar to yours. I don't question that both of you are correct. Your words are well written and you bring up a good, solid point.
As I wrote previously, one coat of CPES only makes an item water-resistant, not water-proof. CPES was all I had on hand for the test. Also, as stated previously, I would love to see someone else run a test using RAKA or some other form of epoxy to see what the results would be. Although some forms of epoxy are mixed and used like glue, CPES is not glue and is not represented as such; but, it can help. Also, CPES is not meant to be used alone as it is not UV stable. It must be covered with a suitable UV resistant product.
CPES is touted as being waterproof on wood if you completely cover
the wood with at least 3 coats
and add some type of UV protection. Obviously, my test was (ahem...play on words...) 'watered' down.
My test was not to prove water-tightness or glue-tightness in extreme conditions (boiling water). It was to show that thin, fragile Luan (Meranti) can be greatly strengthened and often protected from damage during building if you at least coat the bare Luan with a layer of epoxy as soon as possible after securing it to your frame. While the one coat of epoxy will offer a small amount of on-going protection, you should use another product on top of that, for added water and UV protection. (Some people may kibosh this, saying they did fine without epoxy. I'm not that brave; plus, I hope to make my TTT last many years.)
Thanks for your fine comments and I hope this clears up your concerns.