attaching the outside skin to the trailer?

[type82e]

I want to build a woody ie/ just painted or coated ply for the outsides
I'm using 3/4 ply and hopefully framing pine for the spars, now how do I attach the skin to the spars and sides?
obviously glue, but staples, or brads into the spars and sides or screws
marcel

[SteveH]

Marcel,

I used liquid nails and screws. Seemed to work fine.

[IraRat]

I'm using heavily varnished paneling as side skins, connecting flush onto side ply walls which will be sealed/waterproofed as well.

So screws are out of the question, and I don't think Liquid Nails is enough.

Besides cost, any reason I shouldn't use Gorilla or its less expensive Elmer polyurethane counterpart? I know expansion of the glue will be a real issue around the edges, but if I'm careful, any other problems you can think of?

Like would it expand so much that the skin wouldn't adhere flush enough to the side, and it would look "bubbly?"

[Woody]

If you are insulating it and putting furring strips or not. You can make blocks or blocking between your roof spars for attaching the roof skin , use them for your spar attach points as well and attach the blocks or blocking with shorter screws and adhesive to the interior of the sidewalls between the spars. Then attach your spars to them ( Blocks) from the inside as opposed to exterior screws The other way is to countersink the screws through the plywood sides into the spars and then plug them to give a neat and finished appearance. Plugs always look good for a "woody" finish anyway. If painting the wood, just plug them and no one will any wiser. Dependant on the width of you exterior trim you can always set one screw high on the exterior sidewall and cover the screw head with your exterior trim and then finish the mounting the spar to the blocking as discussed above

[IraRat]

If you are insulating it and putting furring strips or not. You can make blocks between your roof spars for attaching the roof skin , use them for your spar attach points as well and attach the blocks with shorter screws and adhesive to the interior of the sidewalls. Then attach your spars to them ( Blocks) from the inside as opposed to exterior screws The other way is to countersink the screws through the plywood sides into the spars and then plug them to give a neat and finished appearance. Plugs always look good for a "woody" finish anyway. If painting the wood, just plug them and no one will any wiser. Dependant on the width of you exterior trim you can always set one screw high on the exterior sidewall and cover the screw head with your exterior trim and then finish the mounting the spar to the blocking as discussed above

Well, you almost totally lost me until the last sentence. Yeah, my trim will cover any screws top and bottom, but there was an awful lot of spar talk there.

If I screw the curved edge of the outside skin into the wall and into the end of spars, and use poly glue, ain't that enough? Granted, I'll never be able to remove it without riipping it apart, but I can live with that.

(You guys have NO idea how I haven't done a lick of work in the office since I started on this project.)

[Woody]

Irarat

Call me and I will explain it to you. It is pretty simple if you think about it, maybe I am could better explaining it to you it was an issue during my build also. I didn't have worry as much hiding screws since I skinned over them. The blocking issue for me can into play while skinning the interior roof and exterior roof in my design. I used them for attach points for the skins along the edge of the roof meeting the side wall to prevent the roof skin from having that ripple look on the install of either skin. I don't know if Kuffel Creek plans show this area built different