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Removing varnish

PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 1:22 pm
by Miriam C.
:( Some of the varnish on my TD is cracked and peeling so I think it is time to completely remove the old stuff and start over. I have Baltic Birch plywood and really don't want it anymore messed up than it is so I would really appreciate some advice on what to use.......

Please and Thank you! :)

oh yeah, it has Hellsman spar and has a second coating of Minwax Clear Shield......

PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 2:16 pm
by Boodro
Ahhhh,,, Happy sanding Auntie M!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

If you sand it smooth & finish with a fine grit , you should be able to re varnish with no problems. Good luck. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


P.s. Mine did the same but I had it outside & did not see it & water got under the varnish & turned black, what a PAIN@ :cry: :cry: :cry: Sanding it did no good it was into the sub layers . Thats why my TD is red now.

PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 2:28 pm
by Miriam C.
Awe, I love your red TD. That Clear Shield is proving very hard. I have some sun damage and some spots where small amounts of water got in. I am leaving it cause it just matches the rest of the thing......... 8) I am calling it a faux finish. :D

PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 5:38 pm
by 48Rob
Miriam,

Helmsman and Clear coat are both Spar Urethane Varnish, so should be compatable.
A light sanding, a good cleaning, and recoating will likely prevent any further damage.
As you've guessed, the areas discolored by water damage are very hard if not impossible to repair, as re staining is required, and it is near impossible to match the color.
Once recoated, keep a close eye on it, may need to sand and recoat every couple years, or more if weather/conditions warrant, to prevent moisture from getting behind the finish again.

It can be scary to take sandpaper to a nice finish, but it really will turn out okay.
220 grit is the roughest paper I would choose to use...
After sanding and wipe down with a clean cloth, further cleaning with mineral spirits, then a tack cloth before recoating will help give a very nice shine

Rob

PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 7:26 pm
by Miriam C.
Thanks Rob but I have varnish pealing around the edges of the scratched areas. When I try to get the loose edges off it peels up in sheets. I think I need to get to the wood this time.

I am pealing the parts that will peal now...... :?

PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 8:19 pm
by afreegreek
one of the best things going for removing old finish..

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 10&p=46266

you can pick up used ones at flea markets etc for about $10.00

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 5:00 am
by Classic Finn
Auntie M

As Rob stated above. Fine sanding and in rough areas 220 grit is the roughest Id go as well.

You know that Ive used the Marine Urethane and Ive had to redo mine once. Light sanding is the key.. and good cleaning. And with patience. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Youve got some very nice birch there so sand lightly. ;)

It will turn out nice once again. Go gal. :)

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 5:17 am
by 48Rob
Miriam,

If it is peeling off itself in large sheets, perhaps the two products were not compatible after all, or, there was a problem with adhesion due to some other issue?

If all the layers are peeling off the wood, with none remaining in the damaged areas, I'd be concerned that the stain, or other finish used on the wood was not compatible with the varnish...

If that is the case, a stripper and refinish may be the best option?

Rob

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 5:50 am
by Classic Finn
48Rob wrote:Miriam,

If it is peeling off itself in large sheets, perhaps the two products were not compatible after all, or, there was a problem with adhesion due to some other issue?

If all the layers are peeling off the wood, with none remaining in the damaged areas, I'd be concerned that the stain, or other finish used on the wood was not compatible with the varnish...

If that is the case, a stripper and refinish may be the best option?

Rob


Rob and Auntie M

I was just thinking about the same fact. Good point Rob. :thinking: :roll:

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 6:58 am
by bobhenry
Boodro wrote:Ahhhh,,, Happy sanding Auntie M!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

If you sand it smooth & finish with a fine grit , you should be able to re varnish with no problems. Good luck. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


P.s. Mine did the same but I had it outside & did not see it & water got under the varnish & turned black, what a PAIN@ :cry: :cry: :cry: Sanding it did no good it was into the sub layers . Thats why my TD is red now.


AND why mine went from this....


Image

to this.......

Image

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 7:07 am
by bobhenry
My new tow is a black metalflake dodge and I am
starting to think about the black bedliner spray and
while its wet hitting it with micro glitter with a sandblast
gun. The texture will hide the imperfections for another
season or to and offer better weather protection

I have also toyed with the idea of the rustoleum
stone finish it comes in several very natural stone
hues and would look fantastic with the smoked
bronze lexan.

Decisions Decisions........ :?

here is what I was up againstImage

Image

and here is the new tow ...Image

The trailer pictures were in the spring of 09 by
late fall it was grinder time there was no sanding
to be done. I simply removed the fraying outer ply
in the bad areas and slopped on some latex enamel
exterior house paint I had laying around to slow
down the deterioration.

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 7:49 am
by Steve_Cox
Miriam,

How's the sanding going? My TD, now SandyD's TD has been getting it's "every two year" sanding and recoating of Helmsman Spar Urethane. I used 220 grit myself back when I did it, sanding more where the finish had checked and less where it was still pretty good. I had a little peeling where I didn't scuff up the surface enough between coatings. I think Sandy was planning on sanding out some of my runs from my last coating job. She is taking very good care of my "baby".

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 9:14 am
by Miriam C.
Thanks guys. I appreciate your replys.

Well here is my efforts for yesterday. As you can see it comes up in large sheets in some areas. I started using a box cutter blade to get the loose edges off and it started coming up. I never argue with success.

Yes Rob it is coming off the wood. I used Minwax from start to finish following their directions..... But it might have been the wood itself. Oddly it is the places where I can tell the sun is doing damage that peal the hardest.... I am thinking a stain remover when the varnish is up........

Almost half of one side done.

btw---we caulk the trim on our houses----why not our TD's?

Image

Image

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 10:25 am
by 48Rob
Miriam,

WOW!

That looks kike a major adhesion issue between the wood and varnish.

Sometimes the people at the mill can get carried away with the wax, or maybe something in the glue they used?
After cleaning/scraping off the finish, be sure to use solvent to clean the wood, to remove whatever is causing the problem.

btw---we caulk the trim on our houses----why not our TD's?


We do, or at least I do.
I use clear gutter sealer. It blends perfectly with the varnish, and helps to keep moisture out of places I don't want it.

Rob

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 10:31 am
by Miriam C.
Thanks Rob
I used mineral spirits on it before I stained it. Really it worked great until it got a scratch and I tried to sand it out...... :? :? :?

Any suggestion for which solvent????? :worship: