Ready to start ordering - curious about wheels, etc

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Ready to start ordering - curious about wheels, etc

Postby Rebel » Sun Jun 27, 2004 9:34 pm

By midweek, I will have ordered my accessories for the frame from Southwestwheel.com, and hope to pick up my steel locally on Wednesday (my day off).

I am planning to order the wheel assembly including 14 inch tires, 8" wide. and the fenders to match. Heres my list that can be seen at http://www.etrailerpart.com/ (part of SW Wheel)

(1) 2,000 lb. Flexiride Torsion Axle = 189.95
(2) 14" X 6" 5-4.5" BC MODULAR TRAILER WHEEL W/ ST20575D14C TIRE MOUNTED AZ128692WT25B $54.95
(2) RECOMMENDED ROUND SINGLE FENDER FOR 14"-16" WHEEL TFT68E $10.95
(1) SUBMERSIBLE LIGHTING KIT (UNDER 80' WIDE) VA007539 $29.51
(1) 5,000 lbs Atwood style a-frame coupler for 2" ball.
80072 $21.95
(1) 2,000 lbs Atwood a-frame jack 80401 $21.95
(2) 36" X 1/4" 1-HOOK SAFETY CHAIN LCSC1436-1 $3.95

Do I need to be concerned with the tongue height at the ball hitch? Not sure what the height will be until I get my hitch installed on the car - a Kia Sedona.
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Postby Ross Wade » Sun Jun 27, 2004 11:28 pm

Hey Rebel,

I built my teardrop first and then matched up the hitch. There are quite a few hitches with different pitches (heights).

I already had the hitch and reciever on my truck, before I started on my tear. We have a 1973 31' Avion travel trailer. However both of my trailers are set at different heights. So I now have two hitches.

Just the way I did it. Ross
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Postby DANL » Mon Jun 28, 2004 7:28 am

I agree with what Ross said. Some years back I bought a fully adjustable hitch with a Uniball. I had two flatbed trailers, a boat trailer, and expected to haul our bike club trailer from time to time. The hitch can be set at heights from about ground level to two feet--cool but it is very heavy and takes time to adjust. I'm now down to just two items to pull so in the future I will be switching to two hitches with different pitches and ball sizes. Just a lot simpler and actually will take up just a bit less space in my truck's junk box.

My main recommendation would be to make sure you don't tow with the rear of your trailer lower than the front. If you have a driveway with sharp dips the trailer may drag. Another idea, if you are having a trailer welded up, is to have a couple of skid plates added to the rear of the frame. Cheap protection.

One last thought for those who are really weight concious is that there are some very nice aluminum towbars out there--expensive but would look darn classy on custom cars.
The tiny trailer in the avatar is designed to carry our recumbents and sometimes sleep in. We LOVE having a kitchen in the woods and a place for most of our gear.
Dan Jones http://sunsetlanding.com/teardrop/teardrop_intro.html
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