Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Dear Friends:

We are back from our 25th wedding anniversary honeymoon trip. The
churches we oversee (92 in all) gave us a trip to Israel! We had a blast!

Hey, I only saw one small travel trailer (fiberglass, about 12 feet long) in all of Israel. It was at a large campground populated by tents, next to the Sea of Galillea.

So now I begin flooding you poor souls with a thousand questions in
preperation for beginning our Teardrop construction.

First, GLUE QUESTIONS.
1. I have heard a lot of talk about Gorilla Glue. Is this the brand
name or a type of glue?
2. Is this glue waterproof?
3. On a typical teardrop, with the sandwitched walls and wooden frame,
how much glue does a guy need?

Thanks in advance!

xe1ufo... It's a brand name...but the glue is a polyurethane...it's available from different manufacturers....I've had the best luck with the Gorilla, but Elmers has one out too that I use....It is waterproof, will take a stain, and can be sanded easily when cured, it expands when it cures, will foam up like the wall filler material in a can...Clean up while using it is a hassle...If it gets on your hands clean them off with alcohol, lacquer thinner, acetone. something that will cut it....water won't....If you don't get it off your hands soon....it'll have to wear off. There has been some discussion about polyurethanes in terms of needing moisture to cure....read the instructions for what you get....I get a better bond when I wipe the material with a wet rag prior to gluing...there is a shelf life on the glue once opened as the moisture will get to it....I don't know what your timeline is, but I would get a couple of bottles for a start...Just my opinion....good luck on your build....Doug

Dr Steve

Gorilla Glue can be found at Home Depot.

I don’t know if in there’s a store in Querétaro if not maybe in Mexico City.

If you can’t find it, I can get one for you maybe a bottle can be enough, the price is about $150 pesos plus shipping.

Raul

Gorilla Glue can be found at Home Depot

Can also be found at Wal-Mart along with the elmers brand polyurethane glue

dr. steve, for myself i started with GORILLA GLUE. the more i used it the less i liked it. it was hard to work with. more clamps and clean up after gluing .and the strenght they clam was not there. i use TITEBOND II. i have used it for years. i used it at the wood shop i retired from and i,m still using now. lot cheapper than the other. but this is my opinion. i used nearly a gallon on my TD.

randy chesnutt wrote:dr. steve, for myself i started with GORILLA GLUE. the more i used it the less i liked it. it was hard to work with. more clamps and clean up after gluing .and the strenght they clam was not there. i use TITEBOND II. i have used it for years. i used it at the wood shop i retired from and i,m still using now. lot cheapper than the other. but this is my opinion. i used nearly a gallon on my TD.

I'm going to second that opinion, although I used the Elmer's version and not Gorilla:

Clean-up is a MESS with poly glues, and if I had it to do it all over, I would just use Titebond.

I agree with what is being said in this thread, Gorilla glue is nasty to clean up especially if it's on your hands too long, then it WON't come off.

Ask Len about the first time he met me at the Hickory Run meet... my hands were completly brown.

I like the Gorilla glkue in certain applications, but also use a ton of Titebond II (especially having 20 gallons of it sitting here)

I'll always vote for Titebond and against Gorrilla (Polyurethane) Glue.

Can Tightbond be found at HD and is it better than the nail glue? I guess it would depend who I talk to right? I've used nail glue so far but that Tightbond sounds like a better method.

I stumbled upon this review about the glue a while back.
http://www.newwoodworker.com/gorilaglurevu.html

Interesting article on Gorilla Glue. I once bought a A Frame trailer and the dealer's shop used Gorilla Glue to glue a rubber seal to aluminum all around the top and it seemed to work (traded the trailer off) and the seal was still firmly attached to the aluminum.

I used Liquid Nail and Tightbond II in building my teardrop. The Liquid Nail was used where I figured there would be flex (and I didn't want it to rip) and then used the Tightbond II everwhere else. Like it says. it makes two pieces one piece.

Just the way I did it and it worked for me.

Have a good day.

John6012 wrote:Can Tightbond be found at HD and is it better than the nail glue? I guess it would depend who I talk to right? I've used nail glue so far but that Tightbond sounds like a better method.

Yes, that's where I buy it. Lowes has the gallon size though, at least mine does.

The thing about Gorilla type glues, besides the mess, Is that the require moisture for the best strength. If you just glue up a dry wood joint, you'll probably be able to break the glue bond. Wherever I use the stuff, I wipe the area with a damp rag, then glue away. On the panel build up on the 'Diners, I laminated using Elmer's version of the stuff. Wipe the ply, insulation, whatever, and went at it! It's time comsuming to do a larger area. I think I'll switch to thickened epoxy! In a lot of areas I used a screw and glue as well. For those joints, I'm going back to Titebond II. I've used Titebond II on all of my boat projects. It's strong, easy to work with , and prices right too!

Gorilla glue........Boo! I have bought it twice, and threw them both away when they got rock-hard right in the bottle. Tightbond II is what holds my woody together, the screws just hold the joints tight until the glue dries. When I am concerned about 2 members not being firmly together, like the second layer of 1/8" on the roof, I use liquid nails or panel adhesive, which comes in a tube. This is the miracle glue that glues most anything to anything. Make a sample glue-up with either of these and the wood will seperate before the glue joint. It has worked for me for 50 years...........hmmm, have they been making it that long?

Roly, just my 2 cents, for what it's worth