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Hatch Hinge, Skin, L molding joint

PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2005 1:33 pm
by JLaman
I am about to cut out the sides of my teardrop (3/4 birch) but am wanting to plan how the hatch hinge, L edge molding, and skin all come together. In addition, the sealling gasket also intersects at this point. My question to those of you who are experienced: How does all this come together?

Does the skin overlap the hinge? Or is the hinge over the skin?

Does the L edge molding stop short of the hinge, or lap the hinge?

Do you cut back the sides slightly below the hatch to accommodate the seal along the top edge of the 3/4 plywd?

Or is it more complicated than simply an order of lapping and should the hinge and/or L molding be notched?

I am building a 5x8 and have really benefitted from all the exchanges here. Thanks for any help or photos!

I am a new member -- hope this post works!

Jeff f

PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2005 5:43 pm
by randy chesnutt
jeff. i sent you three photo to your e-mail. i used a galley hing from r.w.johnson. it has a 1/4" offset . with a peace of 1 1/2"x1/4" flatbar screw down on the trailer side then screwed the hinge on top of it. they have the best galley hinge. heavy duty. the skin should go under the hinge. the way i did it was skin galley hinge then edge molding. I cut back the top of the edge molding enought that the side woud be at the end as you can tell by the picture. sealing the hinge all depends on what hinge you use. i have a seal on the inside the hinge. i,m able to this because of the way the hing is made. one picture is a drawering . it, best to have the hinge you are going to use,there when you build the hatch.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2005 7:12 pm
by JLaman
Thanks for your help! I didn't get the pictures -- if you can, please send again. Also, maybe the pictures will show this, but how is the thickness of the hatch gasket accommodated between the galley exterior and the edge of the 3/4" side? I was just at Lowes and found a very nice 1/8" x 3/4" weather strip, but it seems the side needs to be cut back about 1/16" to 3/32" so the strip doesn't get completely squashed. Thanks again.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2005 10:59 pm
by bledsoe3
Randy, I too am about to build my hatch. Could you post the pictures? Thanks, Jim.

Hatch and Skin...

PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 12:17 am
by rooster
Randy, I'm about to install my hatch and would like to have those pictures also. I bought my hinge from Grant and it's flat both sides, but I still would like to see how you did yours.


galley hinge

PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 1:47 pm
by randy chesnutt
gentleman, i finally got the pictures on my album, page 3 & 4. it took all morning long to do it. i did have to get the wife to come and get it back like it should be. it,s hard to go from your carpenter tools to one of this thing. some time i want to take my nail gun to it.i got my first dictionary the other day and they don,t spell words like i do. well if you need more let me know that,s R W Johnson heavy duty galley hinge

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 5:57 pm
by goldcoop
Hey all!

In reference to hinge placement, think about how the water flows.

I used a continuous nylon hinge (see links souces of supply).

Working from the top back, my hinge is UNDER the roofing (then finished off with a carpet binding strip and caulk tape over the whole works for a finished appearance).

The water flows over the roof/hinge and the binding strip.

On the bottom side the roof is on bottom and the hinge is on TOP (then finished off with a carpet binding strip and caulk tape over the whole works for a finished appearance)., the water just keeps right on flowing down over the hatch, No LEAKS!

I cut the hinge about 3/8" longer on both ends, which expells the water nicely out and away from the sides of the Tear, with the hatch open or closed!

I'm not sure if this same principal applies for RW's hinge, but (the above) worked great for me, I've watched it in pouring down rain, both opened and closed, no leaks yet...



PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 7:14 pm
by Denny Unfried
Jeff, this is the way I did mine with the same hinge that you're using. The hinge is on top of the skin with silicone between.



PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 2:57 am
by asianflava
Thanks for posting those pics. When I was installing my hinge, I couldn't figure out how to install it. I found your pics and they told me everything I needed. It may seem easy enough but when you are holding one, you are easily confused. I also found the pics of someone who installed theirs backwards.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 2:10 pm
by JLaman

The pictures are perfect. I am learning there is more than one way to skin a cat. I am still waiting for my hinge to arrive so I can see exactly what I will have, but I like what you have done. The Lil Bear hinge should be 0" offset as yours is. A modification I am contemplating is to stop the hatch outer plywood even with the outer curved cut plywood but extend the 0.040 aluminum. This will give me the 1/4" gap needed for the rubber gasket and also puts the gasket outboard of all wood. My mini mock up test make me think this should work well. Any opinions? Thanks again.

Jeff L

PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 9:01 pm
by nomad
Denny Unfried wrote:Jeff, this is the way I did mine with the same hinge that you're using. The hinge is on top of the skin with silicone between.

Hi Denny!
I am new, and I have been reading, and watching.
Would you please tell me exactly where to buy this kind of hinge.
A web site, address, or phone number woudl be helpful.
Thanks MUCH!

PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 10:33 pm
by Denny Unfried
Nick you can see and order the hinge through the following web address.


PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 11:32 pm
by nomad
Thanks SO MUCH Denny,
You are GREAT! :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2005 10:51 am
by Southern Oregon Bob
Jeff, I contemplated stopping the 1/4" ply short on the top to gain my space for the seal but I was afraid of the strength of the aluminum skin cantelevering that far even with an aluminum trim piece on top. If you try it let us know how it works. Bob