Fender Mounting Question.

[Khughes222]

I have been working on my own benroy style design for some time now that is going to be slightly different than any other design I have seen. The biggest difference is that I am trying to make the front a slide out that comes out over the tongue.

I have also decided to try to build the entire camper before the frame and then custom match the frame to the camper. I have seen many teardrops that have a flat bottom and sit right on top of the frame with the sides of the frame exposed from every side and thats what I am thinking.

My first dilema with this situation is that I plan on making the sandwich walls with a center 3/4" ply with unique sections cut throughout for insulation pieces to reside and 1/8" to 1/4" panels interior and exterior to seal up the wall into a single piece. Where the problem lies is the placement of the axle. On all of the designs I have seen, there are custom cuts everywhere throughout the center support ply but those cuts are always designed with the vision of where everything will mount up at completion. Pieces of that center ply are always left in areas where a cabinet will bolt through or fenders etc. So with my intention of trying to make a front slide out, I will obviously have more weight up front than most teardrops which may cause me to move my axle forward more. This will in turn prevent me from leaving a specific bolting location in my center ply for side fenders because once the teardrop is complete, I could technically have to move the fender forward or backward depending on weight.

So does anyone have any ideas or pics of how I can ensure my fenders will always follow the axle without intrusion on the sidewall itself? I was thinking some sort of support bracket mounted to the frame with the axle. I am shooting for KIT style fenders more than likely 11" like Grant's.

Thanks,

Kenneth

[Woodbutcher]

I think you will need to try and address your build first by figuring how much it will weigh. If you are doing a front slide out then plan for the battery and any heavy stuff to the rear. Skip or use a small tongue box. Moving the fender around after building the cabin will also cause a door issue. Unless the door opens above the fender you have limited space to move the fender. I used those type fenders on mine and they require more room. You might consider making a full size side profile pattern. Use some 1/4" and draw in where everything goes. Fenders, doors, cabinets etc. A visual is a big help placing everything.

[aggie79]

Your design sounds very interesting! We all look forward to your build.

I echo what Woodbutcher said. Please keep in mind how your final axle placement and resulting fender placement works with your planned location of the door.

In my teardrop, I allowed for some movement of the fender by leaving the plywood "framing" extra wide along the profile of the fender.







In the fender location I settled on, there was less than 1" clearance between the fender and the lower corner of the door.

If your door location is not an issue, then you may want to build the teardrop shell except for the exterior skin. Once the shell is mounted to your frame and you have your final axle location, you could add back plywood "blocking" for your fenders.

Take care,
Tom

[grant whipp]

Hey, Kenneth!

The "floating" fender thing isn't all that hard to do, but I wouldn't recommend trying it with fiberglass fenders ... 'glass just won't hold up to the constant abuse that is inflicted by being mounted to the axle/spindle. Those that work are all welded and internally braced steel, and typically mount to the brake mounting flanges on the back of the spindles behind the hubs.

I've done a sliding axle before, for similar reasons that you have going, but I planned for that in the wall framing and left adequate material in the walls to mount the fenders after the final axle/spindle CenterLine had been determined.

I'll echo what Woodbutcher and Thomas said above regarding potential fender interference with the side door(s).

Have you looked at the vintage Jim Dandy Sportsman front-kitchen design for reference in your design? I'm pretty sure it's up in the Design Resources section of this Forum. It's fairly easy to see how the axle placement affected the side door size & placement. And, this brings up something that I'm not sure has been discussed, yet ... door-to-front-wall/bulkhead orientation and ease of entry/exit from the laying position. Now, I'm a big guy (6'4") with a bad back, and I've managed to squeeze myself into some mighty small teardrop interiors, but over the years I've determined that the minimum amount of room I need to comfortably sit up and spin around to exit the trailer is 16" from front wall/bulkhead to the forward edge of the door ... otherwise I'm squirming & scooting to get lined up and out of the trailer. Some folks might require more, some less, but it should be a reasonable consideration during the design of our trailers ... ...!

Good Luck with your build, and as always ...

CHEERS!

[Khughes222]

Here is a little animation of my design. It does follow the Jim Dandy Sportsman concept but I have never seen that until today.



Sorry I couldnt make it any bigger.

Step 1: Hatch opens, tongue box swings out to the left (If facing forward)
Step 2: 60 x 75" bed box slides out.
Step 3: Roof Raises (Side wall are tent canvas on the exterior and Im hoping for fold up hard walls on the interior.)

[grantstew8]

Keeping this thread going;

I am about to mount my fender/mudguards onto the body of the TD and would like a sanity check.

The TD is now painted and the fender attaching to the TD will also be painted. The lowest photo shows the mudguards resting on the tyre in about the right position but a little low.

I'm considering mechanical fixing (galv screws) through the mudguard into the timber that goes around the floor and also then using an aluminium angle to fix to the wall of the TD and the top of the mudguard, it will be annealed and curved to match the upper surface. I'll then fix the angle to the wall and the top of the mudguard with little screws at 4' or 6' intervals. With a tape under the aluminium angle, it will also waterproof the "gap" and finish off the upper joint.


Looking forward to your thoughts and ideas.