Interesting! I'm guessing there's a cabover on the camper that makes a nice garage underneath it for the atv? You will remember to duck your head when riding the atv up there, won't you?
I don't think 2.5 angle is any good for a trailer of that size. Using a 2"x2"x1/8" square tube as the basis of comparison of strength, some results are:
2.5"x2.5"x1/4" angle - 4.0 lb/ft - strength 77%
2"x2"x1/8" square tube - 3.1 lb/ft - strength 100%
2.5"x2.5"x3/8" angle - 5.9 lb/ft - strength 110%
3"x2"x1/8" rectangular tube - 3.9 lb/ft - strength 180%
3"x1.5"x1/4" channel - 5.0 lb/ft - strength 227%
3"x2"x3/16" rectangular tube - 5.6 lb/ft - strength 241%
3"x2"x1/4" rectangular tube - 7.1 lb/ft - strength 285%
I've added in the 3" channel in case you prefer open sections.
Are you planning on
always carrying the atv? Because if you don't, there's no way the tongue weight can be limited as you wish. My sketch of your plan looks like this:
If the trailer contains 60 feet of steel at 5lb/ft, that's 300lb, so I can't see the whole thing weighing more than 600lb. Adding the weights you've given and some estimated centres of gravity gives this balance calculation:
The thing to note here is that if you take away the atv (is it really 1000lb?) that 360lb tongue weight goes negative - the trailer will tip over backwards if not restrained and is completely unsafe to tow. Alternatives are:
- Never move the trailer without the atv on it.
- Build a 100 gallon water ballast tank under the atv platform.
- Devise some way to move (skid/winch?) the camper 3 feet forwards when the atv isn't there.
I hope this lot is useful! Beware - those centres of gravity are guesstimates - you really need to put the camper on a see-saw (is that a teeter-totter in the US?) to find out where's its centre of gravity is before you position the axle.
Andrew