Bulitex

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby Dave D. » Wed Nov 09, 2005 1:38 am

Was anyone able to find out if this is a paintable product?

Dave
Dave D.
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Nov 08, 2005 12:53 am
Location: Sacamento, CA

Postby Duckdrop » Wed Nov 09, 2005 4:16 am

I emailed them but haven't heard back yet
Terry D
Duckdrop
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 23
Images: 4
Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2005 1:49 am
Location: Beaverton Oregon

Postby Red in Texas » Wed Nov 09, 2005 12:39 pm

Don't know if it's paintable, but the installation instructions say it is glueable....

<snip>
"Lay out material on trailer floor, keeping side to be applied clean and free from dirt or debris.
FOR FRP: Apply adhesives to panel (double sided tape, Liquid Nails, or contact cement). In most cases, for FRP trailers, double-sided tape will provide significant holding power but will need fasteners along front and rear leading edges.

FOR WOOD: Using Liquid Nails Contact Adhesive is optional but does help hold panel against wall prior to fastening. Double-sided tape will not work on wood surfaces.
Flip one panel up at a time and place against trailer wall. Be sure to position sheet perfectly before applying to wall if using double-sided tape due to lack of movement once applied.

Use cargo jacks to hold Bulitex panel in place. Work out any bubbles that may form.
When inserting fasteners, work from center to ends.
FOR FRP: Shorter fasteners are required due to wall thickness. Countersinking is necessary.
FOR WOOD: Use our New Self-drilling, Self-threading, and Self-countersinking Screws and insert using a screw gun. (Caution: Using a drill to insert screws may cause threads to strip).
Depending on width of Bulitex panel, place 2 to 4 horizontal chalk line rows parallel to length of trailer. If sheet and post trailer, place screws about 12” on center vertically on each post or every 24 inches. Important: Be sure screws are slightly countersunk below the surface to avoid getting torn off. "

<end>

Hey, my name is Red.

I've been doing my homework on building a bike tear for some time and have lurked in and out of here for some time. I'm between Austin and Houston, but now am required to go into Baton Rouge for two days a week on business. The hotel market is pretty skimpy owing to the "refugees" from Katrina, and a bike tear would serve my needs to a T for the one night a week I plan on spending there.

The Bulitex is an interesting material, but it appears to be too flexible to suit my needs. I'm looking to keep weight in the 200-300 pound range along the lines of a Quicksilver bike tear. Mine won't be anywhere near 8 ft long and 4 feet tall. If I have to use a backing under Bulitex, as I would with aluminum skin, I don't see too many advantages.

Who has the record for least weight on a tear on this site? Also, anyone have any ideas as to how I can shave precious ounces from my build? If I use 3/8 in plywood and just polyurethane it, do you think it'll hold up? I'm not planning on doing anything more than haul light tools in it and then sleep in it at night.

Thanks.
Red in Texas
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2005 12:01 pm
Top

Postby angib » Wed Nov 09, 2005 1:13 pm

Red wrote:Who has the record for least weight on a tear on this site? Also, anyone have any ideas as to how I can shave precious ounces from my build? If I use 3/8 in plywood and just polyurethane it, do you think it'll hold up?

Good info on the Bullitex.

I think for a lightweight 4x8 tear, Steve Wolverton's Cowper holds the record at 400-some lbs. Roly Nelson streaks into the lead for smaller tear at under 300lb. You should look at the Cowper plans (download and save it quick, as all other Cowper material has gone):
http://www.stevewolverton.com/cowper.pdf

As far as I know, Roly hasn't published any info on his new design on a web site yet, but if you look at his posts here, you'll get the idea.

I would say 3/8" walls were medium-weight construction! If you add some framing (say, 1x2s full height every 12" or so) then 1/4" should be plenty and you could look at going thinner than that. Old trailers were built with 1/8" ply skins, and even masonite/hardboard, but they did have very good framing. It really depends on how tough you want the body to be - it would be a good idea to try making some test panels to see if you are happy with the thin ply.

Andrew
User avatar
angib
5000 Club
5000 Club
 
Posts: 5783
Images: 231
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2004 2:04 pm
Location: (Olde) England
Top

Postby madjack » Wed Nov 09, 2005 5:41 pm

Howdy Red in Texas, Roly Nelsons !/4 nelson tear is under 300lbs, he used a HF 40x48(?) trailer ans a hollow core door as the basis of his trailer...he even designed it so it could be rolled up on it end for storage against the wall, it sounds like just what you may be looking for...if you click the search button at the top and enter "1/4 AND nelson" just as I have it typed it will give you the info about it that's available here...his last stated weight is 255lbs
madjack 8)
...I have come to believe that, conflict resolution, through violence, is never acceptable.....................mj
User avatar
madjack
Site Admin
 
Posts: 15128
Images: 177
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:27 pm
Location: Central Louisiana
Top

Postby Red in Texas » Thu Nov 10, 2005 6:52 pm

Thanks Madjack. His trailer is certainly beautiful. Alas, my woodworking skills are more akin to a 3 year old with safety scissors than those of a guy like him who obviously is a gifted woodworker.
Red in Texas
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2005 12:01 pm
Top

Postby madjack » Thu Nov 10, 2005 7:10 pm

Red in Texas wrote:Thanks Madjack. His trailer is certainly beautiful. Alas, my woodworking skills are more akin to a 3 year old with safety scissors than those of a guy like him who obviously is a gifted woodworker.


Not sure what you looked at Red but don't confuse the 1/2 Nelson with the 1/4 Nelson....they are two very different tears.....the 1/2 nelson is a work of art....the 1/4 nelson is a work of expedience and sound like what you are looking for...sleeps one, has no dedicated galley....
madjack 8)
...I have come to believe that, conflict resolution, through violence, is never acceptable.....................mj
User avatar
madjack
Site Admin
 
Posts: 15128
Images: 177
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:27 pm
Location: Central Louisiana
Top

Postby Red in Texas » Thu Nov 10, 2005 7:37 pm

madjack...I did exactly that....I confused the 1/4 with the 1/2. I've done the search exactly as you advised and came up withj a page of results and still haven't seen pics of his 1/4. I'll keep looking though. Thanks....
Red in Texas
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2005 12:01 pm
Top

step by step

Postby jay » Thu Nov 10, 2005 7:51 pm

someone last week was looking for "how to" instructions. this is an excellent account via Andrew :

think for a lightweight 4x8 tear, Steve Wolverton's Cowper holds the record at 400-some lbs. Roly Nelson streaks into the lead for smaller tear at under 300lb. You should look at the Cowper plans (download and save it quick, as all other Cowper material has gone):
http://www.stevewolverton.com/cowper.pdf
[quote]

hope i did this right & gave credit where it's due..
jay
Donating Member
 
Posts: 410
Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 10:16 am
Top

Previous

Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests