TN_teardrop wrote:I am starting my first teardrop and have a couple of questions?
1. I want to insulate both my floor and my walls. Would 1/2" plywood with 2X4's sandwiched in the middle be good for the flooring? I want to use the 1 1/2" foam board for the insulation in the floor. Or would it be better if I took 3/4" with the 2X4's and 1/4" covering? Would the side walls be ok with two 1/2" plywood and 1x's sandwiched between so that 3/4" foam board could act as the insulation?
2. Would SPAR urethane be better to use than a Rino type of bedliner for the underside of the floor, or a combination of both?
3. Sorry, I know I said a couple, but...............Is it best to try to get air tight on the cabin of the teardrop? ie, caulk all seams. Or do you want it to be able to expand and contract do to the climate changes?
Thanks in advance.
Woa there. Like most new to this, you are suggesting serious overbuild!
1. Most go with 1x2 laid flat on the trailer frame with 1/2 inch plywood over that. If you want to insulate, cut one inch insulating foam board and glue into the one inch frame. (Mine is overbuilt, I used 3/4 plywood, non-insulated.). Non insulated side walls are usually 1/2 inch plywood, some at 3/4 inch plywood. Insulated is usually a 1/4 inch skin, anything 1/2 to 1 inch foam insulation, and a 1/4 inch Inside skin. (Again, I overbuilt, 3/4 inch plywood walls, non insulated.)
2. Most recommend black goopy roof tar for the underside of the tear. That is a long lasting water repelling sealant and wood preservative. Do it right one and never worry about it again. (I used truck bed liner paint. Get the brush on type, the rattle can stuff doesn't go far enough. I figure I will have to repaint or touch up about every 5 years.)
3. Most go for air tight glue and screw construction. Air tight is also water proof which is the big deal. Some put a permanent air vent somewhere to prevent suffocation. Others rely on knowing that they need a window or roof top vent cracked open when they are inside.
When I talk about a over built... A tear should weigh in the 750 a 1250 lb range to be towed by a car. I wasn't too worried about light weight construction because I was going to tow with a truck and built a little heavy for offroad use. I used 3/4 ply and a lot of 2x2 spars... And some other heavy stuff I won't mention, and I think my tear is in the 1750 lb range. (I really need to take it down and get an official weight!). Anyway, that pretty much rules out towing with a car, and now I am stuck pulling all that extra weight that wasn't really needed.
My advice is build smart, not heavy. Torsion box or laminated sandwich design is really light weight and strong.