Need help... Window install

[steve_29045]

See the attached pictures...

I got this windows from Lowes for a mere $41 and measures 24" x 24" and has a bugproof screen in it already!

I understand cutting out a square in the wall, and putting the window through from the inside out... but how do I seal it not to leak, and what material goes in the gap around the window that fills in that gap of about 1" or so???

Hopefully the pictures show the details for this...

[MtnDon]

It appears to be a standard fin mount household window. That is going to be difficult to make work nicely in a TD or TTT, IMO. The window is meant to fit into a rough opening from the outside. The fin is meant to be nailed to the exterior sub sheathing, flashed (sealed with a strip of self adhesive flashing tape) and then covered over by the cosmetic finish; stucco, siding, whatever. That is why there is something like 1 3/8" of window frame protruding past the fin on the exterior face. My guess is you probably don't want to have the window protrude that much and don't want to add stucco or house siding.

The space between window frame and wall framing is usually filled with spray foam (special type for doors and windows). Then covered by the interior wall and trim.

IF you were to carry on and use that window in a TD or TTT you could use butyl rubber tape between the fin and the trailer exterior. It is available from RV and TD vendors. The window will stick out a long ways though.


BTW, it it matters to you personally, trailers that get towed down public roads are supposed to have safety glass in all windows. My guess is that window will not have safety glass as in a home there are limited locations where it is required.

[steve_29045]

I knew it would stick out when I bought it, but not sure if I am going to like the look of it now that I reconsider it more...

I could always use that window on an upcoming shed project in the backyard, so all is not lost yet

If and I say IF I do use it, would it work say if I used flashing tape and maybe 1 3/8" wood around the window to give it a finished look?

Leaning more towards donating the window to the shed, but would like your advice on my idea

[working on it]

It appears to be a standard fin mount household window. That is going to be difficult to make work nicely in a TD or TTT, IMO. The window is meant to fit into a rough opening from the outside. The fin is meant to be nailed to the exterior sub sheathing, flashed (sealed with a strip of self adhesive flashing tape) and then covered over by the cosmetic finish; stucco, siding, whatever. That is why there is something like 1 3/8" of window frame protruding past the fin ... BTW, it it matters to you personally, trailers that get towed down public roads are supposed to have safety glass in all windows. My guess is that window will not have safety glass as in a home there are limited locations where it is required.

Every time I was in Home Depot or Lowes, while planning and building my trailer (over two years), I nearly bought some nice -cheap- sliders that each carried, though I eventually deferred to the awning style I actually preferred all along (I like to touch what I'm buying, before I pay the money... and the HD and Lowe's windows were close at hand). I even inquired about having custom "safety glass" put into them by the local manufacturer (not an option, it turned out). The next option was a safety film laminated over the glass, but I had problems with cars whose window film either sloughed off, or became bubbled over, or eventually very scratched up (I chose not to go that route). And I'm not sure that they would be legally "safe" for road use, even then. Considered some windows for sheds or playhouses, with safety glass, but again, not quite what I wanted, too deep for my 3/4" walls, and only sold in white or brown frames without tinted glass. And sold from businesses far away. So, in the end, I opted for 'Lil Bears' 15x18 awning style (which I earmarked "first choice" in my planning folder on week one). Still not a local business, but from a trailer icon (Grant Whipp), so I knew it was right anyway. If I were you, I'd do the same, and save the Lowe's windows for another (stationary) project at home. P.S. I bought a nice "safety glass", tinted, screened, 48x29 crank out window on e-bay, before I started my build, planning to use it. Plans changed, so I have an extra "large" window for my next project as well!

[MtnDon]

If and I say IF I do use it, would it work say if I used flashing tape and maybe 1 3/8" wood around the window to give it a finished look?

Flashing tape done right* makes a great seal. Some window manufacturers advise the use of caulk under the fin as well. If you do that do not use silicone, but use a good latex. The reason being that silicone sticks to almost everything but old silicone. If you ever have to R&R the window and it is sealed with silicone that becomes a real PITA.

If you use flashing tape, like Vycor (my favorite) you could then trim the window with whatever you like. Cutting a relief in the backside of the trim where it fits over the taped fin will allow it to sit flat against the wall. Looks nicer that way.

* done right = flash the bottom first, then the two sides with the bottom end on the tape overlapping the bottom strip. Then flash the top overlapping the two side tops strips. Grace Vycor has illustrated how to's on their website. There are other brands but IMO Grace Vycor is the stickiest.

[lastrom1]

I'm new to this, the site and building. I saw your window from Lowe's and its the same one I am using. This is the door I built for it. Basically, I took a 4x4 sheet of 1/2 inch ply and centered the window. Cut a hole for it and lined the opening with 2x2s. Then, I cut out the door to created a frame and door from the original plywood . Lined the door and the frame with 2x2s to create a sill all the way around using 2x4s for the hinge side. The door isn't finished just yet. I'm planning on covering it with 1/2in and building a frame around the opening with the same to fill in the remaining gap. The opening of the door is 34x30. When I cut the door opening in the wall I plan on making it an inch smaller on all sides. (the hole will be 32x28.) This lip will be where my weather stripping will go. Thought it was funny, two SC folks building the same thing with the same stuff at the same time. Small world.

[DMcCam]

Another concern with these windows is weight. The little trailer windows are quite light weight so it doesn't add much to the door or trailer overall weight; makes it easy on your hinges. As mentioned, those windows are designed to fit into a house so they are quite substantial perhaps, overkill for a little trailer. Finishing will be much more of a challenge for sure.

The reason most go with trailer windows is that they are designed to work with the requirements of travel, wind, rain and weight. Of course the bottom line is, it's your trailer, build what you like. For me, I asked myself meany times on my build, 'is it worth the money?' My answer was almost always that I didn't want to say, I wish I had..., later on.

All the Best,

Dave

[nevadatear]

Trying not to rain on your parade, but I agree with the others. House windows are both under and over enginerred for your little trailer. Heavy and try to deal with the gap a and a wall not nearly thick enough will require.a very thick door.

[lastrom1]

The finished product.