cutting doors

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cutting doors

Postby roger-c » Sat Apr 19, 2014 4:42 pm

Hi, I haven’t posted in ages. Currently I’m helping my daughter with building her tear that she started several years ago.
What I need to know in what size router bit you guys use to cut out your doors with?
On my tear I built the doors to fit the openings and did not rout them out.
thanks
Don�t force it use a bigger hammer!
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Re: cutting doors

Postby citylights » Sat Apr 19, 2014 5:25 pm

I used a 3/8 inch up cut blade in the router with a frame to keep the cuts straight. Then I used a radial arm jig to cut the curve. All the door and wall edge trim fills the gap again. I actually had to cut more off the door later to make it fit with all the trim.

If I had to do it again, I would just carefully cut it out with a jig saw.

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Re: cutting doors

Postby KennethW » Sat Apr 19, 2014 6:15 pm

I user a 1/4 " cutter with a pattern micro nailed to the door. I took small cuts at a time. The pattern cut out with a jig saw under sized for the router base.
Last edited by KennethW on Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: cutting doors

Postby jss06 » Sat Apr 19, 2014 6:39 pm

I used a straight edge and did a plunge cut with a circular saw for the edges. Then free cut the radius corners with a jigsaw.
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Re: cutting doors

Postby skinnedknuckles » Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:42 am

I used a 5/16" x 1" straight carbide bit with a 1/4" thick luan template. Set my router up with a bushing that would just let the bit through the center and made 4 different depths of cut and came out with a piece that required very little sanding to get smooth. I did buy a new plywood blade for my circular saw but I am very happy with the results that I routed the sides, doors, window openings, floor pieces and am planning on routing all plywood parts the same way. :) I never have used my router as much as I am doing now, it sure works slick :)

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Re: cutting doors

Postby woodywrkng » Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:19 am

I win the prize for smallest bit, at 1/8", in a RotoZip. Such a small bit ensured a small gap between door and wall.
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Re: cutting doors

Postby working on it » Mon Apr 21, 2014 11:11 am

woodywrkng wrote:I win the prize for smallest bit, at 1/8", in a RotoZip. Such a small bit ensured a small gap between door and wall.

I used the same tool and bit, except that I cut out both doors at the same time... 3/4" stacked on 3/4" plywood.
DOOR CUT-OUT.jpg
DOOR CUT-OUT.jpg (60.36 KiB) Viewed 494 times
It was a bear to cut, and I had to sand both sides of the cut significantly (in some places) to "smooth" them out. Ended up with a variable width gap all around, from 1/8"+ to 3/32"+.
DOOR CUT-OUT GAP.jpg
DOOR CUT-OUT GAP.jpg (120.13 KiB) Viewed 494 times
Fortunately, the automotive doorseal I used doesn't care! I would not repeat that mistake (even though I later cut out the holes for my windows and A/C, albeit from a single thickness of 3/4", using the same tool) I would probably get a Dremel Saw-Max,
Saw-Max.jpg
Saw-Max.jpg (17.75 KiB) Viewed 494 times
if I were to repeat.
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", rugged, 4x8 TTT, 2225 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube braked axle, 3000 lb.springs, active-progressive bumpstop suspension
  • *27 x 8.5-14LT AT tires (x 3) *Weight Distribution system for single-beam tongue
  • *100% LED's & GFCI outlets, 3x fans, AM/FM/CD/Aux. *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill, vintage skillet
  • *zinc/stainless front & side racks *98"L x 6" diameter rod & reel carrier tube on roof
173193172890148599
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Re: cutting doors

Postby Kharn » Mon Apr 21, 2014 3:49 pm

We used a circular saw for the straight portions, a jigsaw for the corners and a slow & steady hand.
The kerfs are small enough that I could use the panels again, but I'm using RV doors instead.
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Re: cutting doors

Postby aggie79 » Mon Apr 21, 2014 5:07 pm

I used a router with a 1/4" solid carbide spiral bit with bushing and 1/4" MDF template to cut the plywood framing for the door. Tabs were left to keep door blank in place for interior wall finish.

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The interior wall finish (5/16" pre-engineered flooring) was applied to the framing. Then I used a jigsaw to rough cut the door blank from the rest of the sidewall.

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Later, I cleaned up the edges and door opening with a router and template bit and applied the exterior 1/8" plywood (after insulating the framing.)

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The plywood was oversized. After the glue set, I trim the excess with a router and template bit.

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Take care,
Tom
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Re: cutting doors

Postby RandyG » Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:40 pm

Damn you Tom, you make it all look so easy. :lol: :thumbsup:
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Re: cutting doors

Postby working on it » Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:45 pm

He must've taken woodshop in high school!!!!...I took 5 years of Latin; hasn't helped me build anything yet.
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", rugged, 4x8 TTT, 2225 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube braked axle, 3000 lb.springs, active-progressive bumpstop suspension
  • *27 x 8.5-14LT AT tires (x 3) *Weight Distribution system for single-beam tongue
  • *100% LED's & GFCI outlets, 3x fans, AM/FM/CD/Aux. *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill, vintage skillet
  • *zinc/stainless front & side racks *98"L x 6" diameter rod & reel carrier tube on roof
173193172890148599
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Re: cutting doors

Postby aggie79 » Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:54 pm

Fortunately we had wood shop in junior high and high school. But that was about 35 years before I started my teardrop. Besides this forum, my biggest helpers were Norm Abrams New Yankee Workshop and YouTube videos.
Tom (& Linda)
For build info on our former Silver Beatle teardrop:
Build Thread

93503
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Re: cutting doors

Postby working on it » Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:12 pm

My high school counselor(s) and course advisors told me to not take any shop (metal or wood, automotive not offered), nor typing, nor Spanish, but to concentrate on only my "advanced" college prep stuff like the Latin, and chemistry, calculus, etc, because "you'll never need them". Ha. I could've used all of them everyday for the last 45 years. Who knew?
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", rugged, 4x8 TTT, 2225 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube braked axle, 3000 lb.springs, active-progressive bumpstop suspension
  • *27 x 8.5-14LT AT tires (x 3) *Weight Distribution system for single-beam tongue
  • *100% LED's & GFCI outlets, 3x fans, AM/FM/CD/Aux. *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill, vintage skillet
  • *zinc/stainless front & side racks *98"L x 6" diameter rod & reel carrier tube on roof
173193172890148599
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cutting doors

Postby GerryS » Tue Apr 22, 2014 4:50 am

Not trying to hijack a thread, but too many counselor think college prep or shop class. It's my experience that life is rarely "either or" most of the times it's "both and".

Very nice work!
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